I have a question for you all.
I just got done adjusting all of my door striker plates on my 1984 300 SD. I bought a new striker for the driver's door and kept the original strikers on the rest. When I adjusted the other striker plates, I was able to make it so that the door sits a little bit out of flush to ease in catching the latch, making for an easy closing. However, on the driver's side even when I move the striker plate out as far as it will go, the door is still a little bit "in" from being flush with the body. I can close the door without too much slam, but I am worried that over time I have no room to adjust the striker plate "out".

Has anyone ever tried to modify the holes in the pillar so that the striker plate can be moved father "out"?

Thank you for your consideration,

Gilbert

You are speaking of the front passenger door right? Is the door sitting too far inwards in relation to the rear door? It could be that the rear door sits too far out. I think you can adjust the door by adjusting the hinges

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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go"
1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles

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Is the door sitting "inward" at the point where it meets the body on the catch side?

Rephrasing...........does the door sit properly flush on the hinge side and not flush on the catch side?

When I wrote that thread I was a little worried by my use of terms. The one door that I can not move the striker plate any farther out is the driver door. On the hinge side it seems to be equally a little bit "inward" of flush. On the latch side it closes now without to much effort, however the striker plate has no more play to move the plate any farther out in the future if it becomes necessary. And with the striker plate adjusted all the way out, the door still sits a little inward on the catch or door handle side of the door. On all of the other doors I can move the striker plate out far enough to where you can see that the door is a tad farther out than flush, which seems to make the door easier to close. It is not the end of the world, I just want to get the doors as easy to close as possible.

Thanks for the help, I guess I should research a little more on the archives about adjusting the hinges.

Gilbert

I was thinking along the lines of the rear door being a tad kicked outwards at the hinges......

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

If the door is a bit inward on the hinge side, you've got no other option than to adjust the hinges. However, it's fraught with frustration because the hinges will allow three separate movements of the door:

1) The entire door can move vertically upward and downward.

2) The entire door can tilt so that the catch side is higher or lower, as necessary, to align with the body.

3) The entire door can rotate around an axis that is parallel to the ground. The top of the door can move outward and the bottom of the door can move inward.

All of these adjustments will happen by shoving the door around when the hinges are loose...........and none of them can be done independently. It's a real PITA to get it where you want. I don't think it can be successfully done with one person.

In your case, are you absolutely sure the striker plate won't move further out.........it might be sticking and need a bit of a tap with a hammer and drift.

Yes, the striker is at the end of its outward adjustment. I took the striker off to replace with a new one and checked the mounting plate and pillar holes. I was thinking that if there was some way to file out the outer side of these holes, I could buy a little more adjustment space. I have already started cautiously adjusting the hinges on the driver's door. I moved the door out a little and it closes a little better, so I guess I will continue to fiddle with the hinge. Thank you to everyone for all of your help. I truly use this site as a virtual service manual, and I appreciate it immensely. I visit the site at least a few days a week, I just don't post very often.

So thanks,

Gilbert

Not going to work. The screws are of the flat head design and they fit an angled counterbore in the plate. Attempting to relive the plate on the inside of the holes won't be successful...........the screws will center the plate on the angled counterbores.

Something on the inside of the door jamb prevents the plate from moving outward any further.........and you likely cannot get to it.

Check the screws that hold the latching mechanism in the door. I have seen them loose or even missing, thus not allowing the latch lever to meet the striker properly.

Note: I am assuming that a 123 and a 126 are similar in this regard.

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Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

Did you ever solve this problem? I have the same issue with the driver side (right-hand drive) door on a 1984 380SE.

I was wondering if it was possible to swap the front and rear door plates around to see if that made a difference. However, I have been scared to remove the striker as I am not sure how the nut inside the door is held in place and I did not want to risk having this drop down inside the frame.

You said you had removed the striker plate, so presumably there is a clip of sorts that holds the nuts in place when yo unscrew the bolts.

Correction to earlier post:
I was referring to the nuts inside the door frame that hold the striker in place.

Sorry for not replying sooner. I did end up getting my door to shut perfectly by adjusting the hinge. I did it by very carefully moving the door with the hinge bolts loosened slightly, just enough to be able to move the door. In your case, I would recommend getting a new striker plate (which I also did) and try re-adjusting the plate. Adjusting it can be tricky. I would recommend loosening (sic?) the striker plate and closing the door to set the vertical adjustment. Mark this vertical adjustment and then play with the horizontal adjustment until the door closes with the least effort.

Hope that helped,

Gilbert

it's not often that we get latin spelling/pronunciation notes in the forum! cool.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

LOL, Yes, but I believe it was used incorrectly.
I believe the original parenthesis should have had ' sp?' inside it...( if that is even a legit proofreading mark ...which I do not know )...

because 'sic' means you are quoting someone AND keeping the original mistake in spelling in the quote.

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html