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  #1  
Old 08-20-2009, 10:47 AM
dieseldan44's Avatar
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Question Front Spring Removal Q

Do i need to remove the shock before removing the spring?

I think this step was left out of the Wiki article...it seems I should have loosened the top shock nuts first, no?

dd

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  #2  
Old 08-20-2009, 10:50 AM
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Remove the shock only if you have the LCA supported by a jack or stand, or the spring compressor already in place.
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  #3  
Old 08-20-2009, 11:03 AM
LarryBible
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Yes, and since it sounds as if you've never done this before, it would be a good idea to use a safety chain. If a spring gets loose it can seriously hurt you or possibly even worse.
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  #4  
Old 08-20-2009, 11:06 AM
AMH AMH is offline
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Year
Make
Model
Front springs?
Rear springs?

And you are using the correct spring compressor, not a cheap tool mart special?
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  #5  
Old 08-20-2009, 02:28 PM
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I took the top shock nuts with the car on the ground. Then when I raised it the spring was much straighter and easier to put the compressor on.

Im using the Klann compressor.

Safety chain in place :-) I used to work in a machine shop and understand the power of a spring that big.

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #6  
Old 08-20-2009, 05:18 PM
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Oh my goodness, front suspension work SUCKS.

took me hours and hours to get the LCA bushing out, only to find rust i need to address before re-assembly.

One side apart, one side to go.
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #7  
Old 08-20-2009, 08:18 PM
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Question Another question...

Is it bad to leave the spring in it's compressed state overnight in the spring compressor?

I would think not...but... I wanted to check.
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #8  
Old 08-20-2009, 08:33 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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A hacksaw and a mallet got my LCA bushing out, a C-clamp and some soapy water got it back in. Coincidentally a socket extension fit pretty well to flute the aluminum sleeve.

I just re-assembled my front springs and shocks today. I found that installing and torquing the two shock bolts on the LCA first when the steering knuckle and shock tube can be moved to provide access was the easiest. The I aligned the steering knuckle to the UCA and the shock to the hole. Once the spring is in, getting a socket and torque wrench onto the shock bolts wasn't happening.
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  #9  
Old 08-20-2009, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Oh my goodness, front suspension work SUCKS.

took me hours and hours to get the LCA bushing out, only to find rust i need to address before re-assembly.

One side apart, one side to go.
I hear you...........it's been months for me...........a little bit at a time...........
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  #10  
Old 08-20-2009, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Is it bad to leave the spring in it's compressed state overnight in the spring compressor?

I would think not...but... I wanted to check.

Nope..........it's fine.
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  #11  
Old 08-20-2009, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Is it bad to leave the spring in it's compressed state overnight in the spring compressor?

I would think not...but... I wanted to check.

I wouldn`t leave the spring compressed. It just leaves a lot of stress on the tool. You have apotential bomb ready to cut loose.

I used a 17mm gearwrench to relax the compressor once the spring was out.

there is a saying where I use to work:



"There is no job so important, and no service so urgent,
that you don`t have time to performe your work Safely".


Charlie
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  #12  
Old 08-20-2009, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak View Post
Once the spring is in, getting a socket and torque wrench onto the shock bolts wasn't happening.
Pull down hard on the rod and get the shock to extend outside the body. Then you can access the inner screw. Nobody removes a spring to change a shock.
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  #13  
Old 08-20-2009, 10:51 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Nobody removes a spring to change a shock.
I agree with not removing the spring if you're only changing the shock - but since the spring was already out, I figured it's easier to simply reassemble with the base of the shock getting attached to the LCA prior to re-installing the spring onto the pad.
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  #14  
Old 08-20-2009, 11:18 PM
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Question Yet another question

I have another question:

What is the torque value of the nut that attaches the LCA to the lower ball joint? I cannot find this in the FSM anywhere.

(I am not replacing the lower ball joint, they were recently replaced by the PO. I had to take off the LCA to get the LCA bushing off in a vise)

I guess technically it is a self locking nut, so I should technically replace it. I think I'll put blue loctite on it and call it a day. I guess I could replace it later.

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #15  
Old 08-20-2009, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
I have another question:

What is the torque value of the nut that attaches the LCA to the lower ball joint? I cannot find this in the FSM anywhere.


dd
The W126 is 60 lb.-ft. I'd venture to say that the W123 is identical.

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