new vacuum pump? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

prlgrl · #1 06-03-2009, 09:09 PM

Can you guys please advise me as to what it would cost (roughly) to replace the vacuum pump in an '84 300 CD turbo diesel? I would not be doing the work myself.

jt20 · #2 06-03-2009, 09:18 PM

it is possible to find new pumps for under $300, but a shop will likely charge over that. The time required to install a new pump should not be over an hour. (hopefully only 1/2 hr)

$300 (and over) - parts

~$80 (approx) --labor

*you can find used pumps for under $70 and the installation is only a set of about 8 screws.

#3 08-02-2009, 08:23 AM

Make sure you actually NEED a pump. Often the only problem is the brass check valve or a broken vacuum hose.

Diesel911 · #4 08-02-2009, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prlgrl

Can you guys please advise me as to what it would cost (roughly) to replace the vacuum pump in an '84 300 CD turbo diesel? I would not be doing the work myself.

Might as well post what type of problem you are haveing.

The Check Valve ForcedInduction was speak of is the part right where the main Vacuum tubing/hose attaches to the Vacuum Pump.

The Blue arrow end screws into the Vacuum Pump and the Red Arrow end is the one that the tubing/hose screws into

Sbean · #5 08-02-2009, 02:13 PM

When my vacuum pump failed (1980 300 TD) it was just a split diaphragm, which I replaced with a rebuild kit from Fastlane ($28 or so). The check valves were fine. Yours is a piston type rather than diaphragm. Anyway, it's worth considering repair instead of replacing the whole pump. Steve

Jeremy5848 · #6 08-02-2009, 03:51 PM

Just to give you a number to play with, my '85 300D-T (W123, OM617) had an oil leak at the front that turned out to be the vacuum pump gasket. I had my mechanic do the job and was charged two hours of labor to R&R the vacuum pump and replace the gasket. Your mechanic will probably charge something similar plus the cost of the vacuum pump, which will be about $250 from an on-line supplier and about $350 "retail." So, depending on labor rates in your area, you are likely going to spend about $500.

Hint: if your mechanic will allow it, buy the pump yourself and save $100 over retail, then give the pump to the mechanic and say "put this on my car."

Note: my mechanic won't do this, he says that the parts markup pays for the cost of the shop, and his hourly labor rate is just for him.

BTW, mechanics will often say "while I'm in there" the following things should be replaced . . . and give you a long, expensive list, so discuss this in advance with the mechanic and decide how you want to handle requests for belts, cooling system repairs, etc.

The mechanic may be right, but it's also in his interest to fix things whether they really need them or not, both to make more money and to keep from being blamed when the work not done causes a failure 3 weeks later. My mechanic is honest enough to say "we can replace this now or it can wait 'till another time." That's why I go back to him, 'cause I don't feel I'm being used, even though he's expensive.

Jeremy

NC Benz · #7 08-20-2009, 02:09 PM

I have been going through the vacuum pump posts.... I have a question...

It appears that my vacuum pump is gone. I was hearing some grinding and other noises that appeared to be from the valve cover area. Then my shifting went bad, the locks didnt lock, the car didnt turn off and the power brakes stopped working.

The car will not be driven until I get this fixed.

What are the chances I need to replace the whole pump (as opposed to rebuilding)? I am going to take it off this weekend to dig into it.

Thanks in advance.

Diesel911 · #8 08-21-2009, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NC Benz

I have been going through the vacuum pump posts.... I have a question...

It appears that my vacuum pump is gone. I was hearing some grinding and other noises that appeared to be from the valve cover area. Then my shifting went bad, the locks didnt lock, the car didnt turn off and the power brakes stopped working.

The car will not be driven until I get this fixed.

What are the chances I need to replace the whole pump (as opposed to rebuilding)? I am going to take it off this weekend to dig into it.

Thanks in advance.

If you have a Piston Type Vacuum pump there are 2 separate rebuild kits.
One for the piston End that used to cost around $60
And, another rebuild kit for the parts that drive the piston and are the parts that face the inside of the Engine at a cost of $250 more or less.
Unfortunately the grinding noise is going to be caused by the $250 end of the Vacuum Pump.

The exception might be if it is only the Roller/Bearing that is shot. It may be possible to press out the pin that holds the Bearing and replace it with a bearing bought from a Bearing Supply place.

However; rebuilding the complete Vacuum Pump with both rebuild kits is not cost effective and you have no Warranty.
A new pump will come with a Warranty.

You will not know till you pull the Vacuum Pump off and take a look. Also where it rides on the Timer will need inspection.

You might want to take a look at this thread as apparently the End Plan on the Fuel Injection Pump Timer was too much and was causing at least 2 Vacuum Pumps to fail.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=258062