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#1
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What is killing my alternators?
Tell me what you think. I have a 1990 300D 2.5 with 435k on it. This has been a great car except that it loves alternators. The first time I ran into this problem was February of 2006, I am sitting at a red light and the idle starts to drop and all accessories die then the car. I have it toed to the dealership (I use to work for Mercedes) and it’s diagnosed as an alternator. No big deal, I get them to install a new (reman) one and all is well till June of 2008. I am on a road trip in Florida and get in the car and with no type of warning my battery is completely dead, no big deal I buy a new battery (Shirley it‘s not the alternator right?). No problems till I get back to NC. A week after my trip with no warning the new battery is dead. I take the car to a friend of mine who owns his own Mercedes repair shop and once again it needs an alternator. Now… August of 2009 I am on a road trip and stop for a break, try to start my car, with no warning the damn battery is dead. Mercedes road side comes out, jumps it off and I drive it home. With a full charge on the battery I have the car checked again and it needs another alternator!!! What gives 3 alternators in less than four years? In each case it’s the diodes in the alternator. All 3 where Bosch. Everything works perfect on this car. If anything ever broke I fixed it. There are no drains on the system when the car is shut off. That’s all I can think of...
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Mike 90 300D 511k 95 C280 133k 14 BMW 528i |
#2
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Two suggestions.
First, my W126 ate alternators until I found a loose connection in the main alternator feed wire up to the secondary firewall. The nut was loose on the stud for the big wire and it let the current spike as it made and lost connection. The second one is that I found a place here in Vegas that made me a custom alternator from new Delco parts for only $195. It almost bolted right in, I needed to whittle on the mounting bracket with the adjustment bolt just a little. I now have a 140-amp alternator that is easily rebuilt, except that it puts out so much power that I haven't needed to fix it yet!
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There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." FrankenBenz: '87 560SEC with an '02 cammed LS6 and custom 4L60E. Bling: '87 560SEC, ported/polished, lowered Lisa: '87 560SEL, lowered |
#3
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Did the loose connection fix your problem?
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Mike 90 300D 511k 95 C280 133k 14 BMW 528i Last edited by terminator; 08-20-2009 at 12:03 AM. |
#4
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Tightening the connection fixed it on the W126. I had put a set of dual electric fans on the radiator instead of the viscous clutch fan and just didn't tighten that nut sufficiently.
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There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." FrankenBenz: '87 560SEC with an '02 cammed LS6 and custom 4L60E. Bling: '87 560SEC, ported/polished, lowered Lisa: '87 560SEL, lowered |
#5
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Thanks for your input. I will check for loose connections in the morning.
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Mike 90 300D 511k 95 C280 133k 14 BMW 528i |
#6
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That seems really unusual....something is wrong to cause those alternators to fail like that....I too vote for a loose connection
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#7
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Is the alternator idiot light burned out in the instrument cluster?
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#8
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If you're not at least a little bit savvy about electricity, take it to a local auto electric shop and they can quickly diagnose the problem. If you are electrical savvy, use a DC Voltmeter across the battery with the engine running looking for 13.4 to about 14.0 Volts. If it's not that, do a Voltage drop test along the entire charging circuit. THEN, use a DC ammeter in series with the battery while everything is turned off to make sure there is no maverick current draw.
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#9
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Do like Larry says. Also find someone with an inductive amp meter that can check the charging amps. With the engine running at about 1500 rpm and all other electrical devices (a/c, lights, etc) off, check the charging amps and watch it to make sure it drops as the battery charges. It should drop to 10 amps or so depending on the car. Remember, if cooling fans come on this number will go up as the alternator is supplying all power needed for the car and charge the battery. I know you have a new battery, but I have seen many battery's that will charge up but only to a "not quite charged" level and will continue taking the charge from the alternator. This puts an undue amount of stress on the alternator and usually over heats it to the failure point. Also, if possible, never jump off a car with a dead battery and then drive the car to recharge it. I KNOW, this is done all the time but it puts an undue stress on the alternator that is trying to charge a dead battery, run the A/C on high at night with the lights on and the radio on full blast with and the kids in the back seat running the windows up and down. Well I think you get the point. If you have to be jumped, and then drive, at least keep everything off that you can until the battery can be charged with a charger or the alternator can do its job of recharging with out the extra loads.
If any of this makes sense, I hope someone will learn something. If I confused you, let me know and I will try to explain what I meant. Paul
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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles) |
#10
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Bad glow relay can cause that type of problem & is somewhat common!
I'd try getting a used one & replacing it.
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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES) ASE Master Technician Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times) 44 years foreign automotive repair 27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer) MB technical information Specialist (15 years) 190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold) 1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold) Retired Moderator |
#11
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Quote:
The battery light is not burned out but like most Benz' dosen't always warn you when your alternator is not charging. I did check for loose connections and did not find any. Thanks for everyone's imput.
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Mike 90 300D 511k 95 C280 133k 14 BMW 528i |
#12
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435k miles is an impressive number Mike.
Did you pull the regulator and brushes each time to see if they were worn?
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png |
#13
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Don't call me Shirley(sic).
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#14
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143 / 150 amp Bosch Alternator
mike,
This is gsxr's alternator upgrade tutorial: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=53238&highlight=143+amp+alternator 'have done the same...acquired used 143 Amp...New Bearings...New Regulator less than $100.00 invested. Now, the Rectifier Bridge for this Alt is about $143.00...But I don't forsee needing one for many miles.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#15
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Can you elaborate on this? Why wouldn't it? If something is wrong with the charging system badly enough for the battery to die, the idiot light should give some indication of the problem.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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