Originally Posted by Billybob (Post 2276389)

Any thoughts as to how this advice contradicts the head bolt removal procedure, sequence, and cautions detailed in the FSM particularly regarding the relatively long length of this in-line six alloy head and the price for a replacement. Do you suppose that having a single bolt torqued to spec out of the 26 total securing the cylinder head in position is advised? Unless of course you already know its trash and it will be un-salvageable.

Originally Posted by Oracle12345 (Post 2276617)

its appears the op doesnt know whats going on here. Your only choice to remove stripped threads is to drill it out. However if you have rounded head then you have more options such as irwin extractors.

Originally Posted by t walgamuth (Post 2276557)

They take a tremendous amount of torque to break loose. Each one which is removed with the breaker bar with cheater applied will feel like something is going to break just before it breaks loose, but nothing ever does. Use a good quality breaker bar though.

I have a craftsman and I use a 3/4" piece of conduit that is about 16" long as a cheater bar. It is just a little too small to slip on and has to be pounded on which is nice because it stays that way. I generally just leave it on there.

Originally Posted by babymog (Post 2276774)

Maybe I'm missing something here, but I'm just an average size/strenght guy, and I have removed three 603 heads with just my 1/2" drive Craftsman ratchet, ... one of them in a junkyard.

Are they supposed to be tougher than that or are the cast-iron heads what's being discussed here?

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton (Post 2276608)

A highly experienced and wealthy mechanic such as yourself out to treat himself to a proper 18" breaker bar.;)

Originally Posted by jt20 (Post 2276776)

remove the head of the bolt by drilling out the center to a wide enough radius.

the head will come off and it will remain as a post in the block.

it will then be easier to remove since there is no clamping action along the bolt's length - the majority of the friction has been removed.

Originally Posted by t walgamuth (Post 2276785)

This cheater is applied to an 18" breaker bar, which I have had for at least 30 years!;)

No sense straining myself. I use it on lug nuts too, so I don't have to pull so hard.

Originally Posted by WINGAS (Post 2276833)

<<snip>>Worked like a charm.

Originally Posted by WINGAS (Post 2276833)

Had the same issue, and as wal says, it was because I didnt clean out the oil from my first head bolt. Rounded that sucka nasty.

Borrowed an extraction set, Craftsman, from a buddy. It goes on reverse twist, so when you try and loosen , it digs into the head hard. Worked like a charm.

Originally Posted by t walgamuth (Post 2276557)

This problem was most probably caused by not clenaing out the recess in the top of the bolt where the allen fits in. If you clean that out and are very diligent about getting the allen pushed down all the way I don't believe you will ever strip out the insides. You also need to be very careful about keeping it straight while you are applying torque.

Originally Posted by Strife (Post 2276852)

I completely agree with both of these points; also, DO NOT USE CHEAP TOOLS. I have pretty good quality tools and I've aready put an uncomfortable amount of wear on one or two of the hex's.