How do I remove a stripped m10 head bolt?

[badgator]

Can I pound a torx bit in or drill head off?

Unfortunately I can weld anything to the bolt.

Any ideas...

[babymog]

What car/engine?

The head is stripped, or the threads? I'll assume the head.

You can drill the bolt head off, it will release rather suddenly though and that probably isn't very good for the head.

I've had good luck with the IRWIN internal-helix easy-out sockets available at Autozone/Napa/Advance Auto/et al. (used on OM603 head bolts).

[Oracle12345]

you will have to drill a pilot hole then fit an extractor in it to remove it. If that doesnt work you will need to drill the hole and tap it.

[badgator]

300sdl

I doubt you could use a screw extractor.

[Billybob]

Assuming its a M10 XZN head bolt and that you've stripped out the head before you go crazy on it you should try these"

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/irw53227.html

You can use the largest one that will barely fit, pound it into the stripped hole and maybe get it out that way. They don't always work but when they do it saves a lot of other work to get to the happy ending. The other style with internal flutes which fit outside the bolt head also work good if you can get them onto the bolt head.

Using a small pencil type torch to direct heat onto the damaged bolt head just before you apply force to it is a good technique, you don't need it red hot or anything like that, "too hot to touch" might give you just enough elongation to make things possible under these bad circumstances.

I've never had or heard of someone stripping out one of these bolt heads who was being careful and using a high quality tool!

[bigblockchev]

Whack it with a 2lb hammer and pin punch inside the socket head several times . Hopefully it will get broken a bit loose. Or you could pound your 12pt bit in with one of those manual impact drivers that you hit with a hammer.
Get all the rest of the head bolts out first before destroying your tools though. If these do not break it loose go ahead and try the torx bit it might work. If all else fails drill the bolt head off & pull the head straight up over the bolt stub. You should be able to get the stub out with a stud extractor or even vise grips. Cheers Dan

[leathermang]

If you can drill the bolt I suggest you then tap it with a left hand thread...
and screw an aircraft quality left hand bolt into it...
this often works for me...
you will want a close fit on the threads to bolt... like 90 percent compared to the usual maybe 78 percent...and use a bottoming tap for the final tapping...
If you use a spiral grove tap it should be easier to get it started straight... it may be called a gun tap at your specialty nut and bolt place....
And put Kroil on it for a few days while you try to round up these proper tools... you can build up a lake with RTV around it... and let it sit as long as you are able...good stuff...

[bigblockchev]

If this is indeed a head bolt then it is several inches long & not necessary to drill all the way down to the block. If it is something else then I am off base. Cheers Dan

[badgator]

I'll try the pound in bolt extractor.

[mespe]

Just drill it out. Then when teh pressure is relieved and teh head removed, use vice grips. Use plenty of oil when your drilling and it should be out in 15 minutes and that includes the time to find a good drill bit.

[babymog]

If you choose to drill the head off, just do it. I've done this once and it didn't hurt the head, but I worried about it.

Do NOT remove the other bolts first, I suggest doing this with all of the other bolts tight so that you don't risk warping the head. If you remove all of the bolts except this one it is much more likely to warp the head, especially if it's an aluminum one.

There will be plenty of bolt shank to grip to extract the bolt once the head is removed, and it will likely turn out by hand.

[jt20]

remove the head of the bolt by drilling out the center to a wide enough radius.

the head will come off and it will remain as a post in the block.

it will then be easier to remove since there is no clamping action along the bolt's length - the majority of the friction has been removed.

[badgator]

Originally Posted by jt20

remove the head of the bolt by drilling out the center to a wide enough radius.

the head will come off and it will remain as a post in the block.

it will then be easier to remove since there is no clamping action along the bolt's length - the majority of the friction has been removed.

This was a last resort for me, not needed.

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

This cheater is applied to an 18" breaker bar, which I have had for at least 30 years!

No sense straining myself. I use it on lug nuts too, so I don't have to pull so hard.

Had my trusty old Craftsman breaker bar + 2' floor jack handle (not needed)

Suspect PO / mechanic f'd up the splines as the m10 went in straight and

deep - NO gunk in splined bottom.

[WINGAS]

Had the same issue, and as wal says, it was because I didnt clean out the oil from my first head bolt. Rounded that sucka nasty.

Borrowed an extraction set, Craftsman, from a buddy. It goes on reverse twist, so when you try and loosen , it digs into the head hard. Worked like a charm.

[babymog]

Originally Posted by WINGAS

<>Worked like a charm.

When exactly have you had a charm actually "work"? So in effect, what you're saying is that you hoped it'd work, but never saw any quantifiable result?

;~)