Leaks found. How to fix?
 

I have isolated the two main leaks on my 300d. I was under it last night when I was changing the oil, and was able to determine that the main drip is coming from the oil filter assembly where it mates to the block. How hard is it to change out this gasket? I don't know if its related, but when I changed the oil last night, the o-rings on the rod of the filter "cap" were about as hard and brittle as anything I've seen....I don't know if that contributed to the leak, but I put new o-rings on.

The other leak is a faulty valve cover gasket...which is weird because it is brand new. I just put it on this weekend, but it leaks all around the drivers' side....must be that I didn't clean the mating surface well enough, or it's just the fact that it's not a German gasket. I'm ordering a new one.

Is there some trick to installing the Valve Cover gasket?

Removing and replacing the oil filter housing is a bit challenging. The trick is having the right combination of hex keys. It's been a long time since I did one, but I expect that if you have standard L shape hex keys along with a set of 3/8 drive keys, and a good selection of extensions and universal joints, you will be able to pull it off. Oh yes, you might find yourself having to invent a few new swear words before you're finished.

The cam cover gasket can be tricky to get on without it folding over on itself. I've read someone installs it on the cover then ties fishing line around it to keep the gasket in place and when nearly seated, cut the lines and pull them out. I use a bit of grease on the cover mating surface when reinstalling the cover, the most difficult part of a valve adjustment!
I haven't done an oil filter canister gasket swap.

I use a little RTV to hold the gasket to the cover while installing it.

Also try tightening the bolts on the oil filter housing before you go through with replacing that gasket.:)

Before you swap the oil canister gasket, often the bolts get loose over time. You can try just tightening the hex bolts. You'll need to modify an allen key but cutting part of the L off to get in there on one of the bolts.

This fix has worked on both of my 300D's, and many other forum members cars. Removing the oil filter housing is from what I can tell quite difficult. The power steering box is really in the way.

dd

I've done the oil filter housing on three vehicles. As Dieseldan mentioned, you need to grind off the short part of the L on an allen hex about an eighth inch or a bit more to squeeze it into one of the bolt heads that's blocked by the steering box. Do a good degreasing of the area before starting. The bolt heads should be very clean to seat the hex. Then use a short cheater bar on the hex to loosen the bolts. I was afraid I'd break the hex key, but they all unscrewed ok. With the bolts loose, the rest of the oil will spill out and collect on your face. After that, you'll be able to pull the housing loose enough to barely get to the gasket surfaces and scrape them off and clean them as best you can. I sprayed brake cleaner on the assembly and surfaces, but wear googles, try not to breath it, and let it dry thoroughly. Then wipe it down.

Fit the new gasket into the gap so that the bolt holes line up and put it back together. Its a PITA, but a very rewarding leak repair when finally done.

Edit: Its only slightly more work to go ahead and replace that gasket if you are to the point of turning the hex bolts. Also, simply tightening bolts risks making them even more difficult to get off if you end up having to do that.

This is a common leak and I think all 616-7s eventually have to be done.

x2

What size is that allen head key? I may want to buy a couple of extras in case I screw one up while grinding it down.

It could just be loose, I really don't know. The valve cover gasket has me more annoyed...I'm sure I got it seated straight....I won't buy Beck Arnley again.

6 mm

I've also had similar problems with new valve cover gaskets. Ended up putting the old one back on and it sealed fine.

- Clean the mating surface on the head really well with a paper towel (sometimes I push a wadded up towel with a long screwdriver).
- get the cruise control pod out of the way if you havent already
- put a thin film of new motor oil on the gasket mating surface
- when the valve cover seats correctly, it makes a really reassuring thump sound, hard to describe, but you know it when you hear it
- last, and not least, use a torque wrench and get the valve cover nuts to 15 nm. Tighten them bit by bit, alternating sides diagonally like a wheel. Dont overtighten.

I have a new german gasket coming soon, so when I replace it, I will follow that good advice.

Last time, I did hear the "thump" as well as did the incremental tightening of the nuts to 10 ft lbs.

Thanks,

Joe