what's a fairly idiot-proof webpage with pics for fuel filter changes for my wagon? it'll be the first time for my doing this procedure...planning on exchanging both the canister and the inline plastic filter. any tipe from pros greatly appreciated.
thanks!

There's really not that much to it.

Loosen the bolt at the top of the fuel filter casting and screw off the filter. Fill the new one with diesel fuel and put it back in place then tighten the bolt. Just behind the filter look for a white plastic thumbwheel. Unscrew it counter clockwise until it comes loose. You can then pump it up and down. Pump it until you hear swishing at the top of the fuel filter casting. Once you hear the swishing, push the pump back down and turn it clockwise to tighten it back in place.

While you're at it, replace the prefilter using a screwdriver on the two hose clamps.

Do this every 25,000 miles and unless you get really unlucky with a bad tank of fuel, your fuel system will run forever.

I believe the interval is 15k.

Restarting it will be a PITA. Crack the hard lines at the injectors and turn over the engine till you see fuel (after the pumping). Then tighten lines and you should be ok. It has been known to take 30min to get the car running again. Its best if you can have someone turning over the engine with the pedal floored and you under the hood closing the hardlines.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

It is also a good Idea to change or at least have on available the 2 O-rings that go on the Bolt in the middle of the Filter.
If you change the filter and not the O-rings no problem. But, if you change the Filter and it leaks you have a little problem.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Mine always fires right up after the filter change. I just fill the "spin on filter" to the brim before tightening, let the "pre-filter" gravity fill with fuel before tightening the hose clamps and pump the primer until it "farts" a couple times.

Piece of cake.

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AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)

Being a little bit of a clumsy person I do not fill the Spin-on filter on the Merceds as I would for sure spill some and it is very likly I might manage to let the whole filter slip out of my hands when trying to get it on the Filter Bolt.

Normally pumping on the Hand Primer does the job for me; but, I have also been in too much of a hurry and failed to pump the Hand Primer enough and ended up having to loosen the Injector Hard Line Nuts to bleed the air out. (The hurryer I go the be hinder I get.)

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

you guys are great. thanks for all the help!

Hi

I had an easy time of it. Changed the clear prefilter (just two clamps) Then backed off the top bolt holding the canister filter and unscrewed the filter. Filled the replacement filter with diesel and installed it, leaving the top bolt a little loose. Then pumping the hand pump until the prefilter filled with diesel (big bubble in the prefilter is OK) and just diesel ( no air bubbles) was escaping from around the top bolt of the canister filter. Then tighten the top bolt down and you're ready to start her up.

Joseph

I've never had to loosen the hard lines on any of my 123's. Use the primer pump correctly and you'll have no problem.