Cruise Control Computer...remove?
 

I have 100% given up on my stock cruise control. I don't use it, I don't need it, it doesn't work.

If I remove the underdash cruise computer, will I notice any ill effects? Does it act as a pass through for something else? Sort of like how the EGR computer controls the tach in the '85's.

It's a perfect spot for mounting another gadget that will be more useful.

This is on the '85.

dd

ps.If I want cruise someday Ill buy an aftermarket unit.

No you will not notice any ill effects.
Keep the computer, you can use the connector to interface the stock switch/control and speed input for an after market one. do a search on audiovox cruise control CCS-100 recently (10/10/09) saw on sale eBay for $60 delivered.

I had my non-functioning cruise control module still plugged in. I parked the car for a couple weeks and came back to a burnt electrical smell and a dead battery. Unplugged the CC module, problem fixed, but I had to replace the battery.

that can't be the fault of the cruise control relay alone. something must of been drawing power for the battery to die

Thanks for the answers and the tips on the Audiovox unit.

Out the CC computer comes.

Is that a direct swap or is there more involved? I remember reading about that before... Somewhere..:confused:



Edit: I was reading about it again just now... Never mind.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=219993&highlight=audiovox+cruise+CCS-100&page=2

I may actually do this. This is a hell of a lot cheaper than fixing the factory system and looks pretty good too. The damn cruise is the only thing that does not work on this car.

The easiest solution is to repair the original system.

Fixed that for you. Why attempt to "repair" 1970's electronics when a brand-new modern system works just as well with 1/4 the cost? It might take an extra hour to install but unless you're a lawyer who bills $300/hr you still win.

I agree... I have already made the decision. When it cools off (if it ever cools off down here), I'm replacing it on the 85 following "mayday's" info. as a guide.

Hey Snookwhaler,
I'm in Winter Haven. We should do it together. I'm looking at utilizing the existing wiring where possible.

Mine works perfectly, I replaced both the amp and the actuator at the same time a few years ago (also checked all the connections). The whole thing cost about $5-600, took about half an hour, and did not involve any hillbilly engineering. If you decide to hack it, save the original parts for the next owner.

I don't know about you folks, but if I didn't want to "repair 1970's electronics" I would just buy a new car. This has nothing to do with the cost.

for some people it does have to do with the cost. for myself, i'd rather be rolling in an old 190e for which parts are readily available and cheap and i know how to fix it myself. it beats the cost of expensive new parts, and the labor to have them installed. it also beats having to pay expensive registration and insurance, and monthly payments. money always has something to do with it. if you were rollin' in the dough, you almost certainly would be driving better cars than are in your sig. same for me, even though i have a passion for the w201 just like you've got one for the 123

There are no better cars than the ones in my sig, that's why I drive them.

If I wanted newer cars, I would be driving newer cars; if I just wanted to save money, I certainly wouldn't be driving these cars (I'm usually too busy to work on them myself). I'm sure that I could save money in the long run by driving five year old E320s that need less attention (I might actually pick up a used 4matic wagon to replace a POS jeep and to teach my daughter to drive, and I do need something that works in the snow). Tomorrow night I'm dropping off the 300D for two tires, a speedo cable (starting to get a little jumpy when cold), and a (overdue) valve adjustment. I did manage to replace a glow plug, change oil, and change fuel filters this week; but that was all the "play time" I had available. I'm sure I could save a few $100 by doing everything myself but I don't have any more free time this week, I promised my daughter that I would take her skiing for a few days next week (school vacation), then I will be busy working in Atlanta and VA the following few weeks. I also want to get the 300D painted when I (hopefully) have some free time at the end of the year, but I haven't found the time to track down a good body shop and get an appointment. It's just a matter of priorities, if you want the luxury of driving these old cars you have to pay the price (in time and/or money). If you can't, go buy something new (and hassle free) like everyone else.

I'm not "rollin' in the dough," but I certainly could be driving a new benz if I wanted to (big deal). I still like the old ones better, everyone else in the neighborhood seems to have a new one (or a ricer clone), and I think writing a $60K check for a new car is stupid. My wife and I both got over the "new car thing" many years ago, other people can think whatever they want.

I have a friend who drives (and works on) old W140s because he likes them and thinks they are a good value; he could buy and sell most of us several times over without touching his real-estate holdings. You still won't find him driving a new car, although his wife might be driving a new benz by now (it didn't sound like he was going to avoid that little expense last time I saw him, it was his anniversary). I don't know what he sees in W140s, but that's what he likes to play with.

Since you have a passion for the W201, would you still be driving one if you won the power-ball jackpot?

The cruise computer, tach amp, and climate control unit are just about the only electronics I can think of in our old cars; if 1970's electronics were a major component of our vehicles I don't think any of us would be as excited about them as we are. If anyone actually produced new replacements it might not be such a problem, but all you can do is hope the "remanufactured" (read: still 30 years old) electronics you spent $600 on will last another few years.

How many of us struggle to find a decent, working tach amp? Our own techguy512 ended up designing a new one with modern electronics from scratch (and the two I bought work great, thanks Bob!).

Obviously if you're willing to pay the price to keep your car 100% stock, go for it. But the "hillbilly engineering" method is only going to take an extra hour, costs a fraction of the price, and is almost certainly going to be more reliable to boot.

I have bought both climate control units and cruise control components from GDL with excellent results (and a warrantee):

http://www.gdl-online.com/begin.html

Regarding the elusive tach amp, it's available for $132:

http://www.allpartsexpress.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1982-MERCEDES--BENZ-300dt--/--L5--3005cc--3.0l--Diesel--Fi--Turbo-Electrical&yearid=1982%40%401982&makeid=MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&engineid=1193767%40% 40300DT++%2F+L5%2D3005cc+3%2E0L+DIESEL+FI++Turbo%40%40300DT&catid=Electrical%40%40Electrical&subcati d=Tachometer@@Tachometer&mode=PA