starter location = sadistic german engineers

I'm in the process of removing the starter from my '84 300d-t (wish it were a non-turbo at this point, could then remove from under hood). This has proven to be quite difficult, and I have decided to call it a night; I will pick up a 10mm hex socket tomorrow, the hex key wasn't cutting it. 200k miles of under engine crud makes it all the more pleasant...
Any suggestions or simple morale boost offered at this point would be much appreciated.

[MarkM]

I replaced the starter on my 85 300D and found it a little frustrating, however, my recollection is that it was quite straightforward having the tools that made it easier.

You should definitely invest in a set of metric hex sockets (regular 3/8 craftsman, or even the sets I have seen in Auto Zone or Pep Boys seem to be of decent quality). You cant do this work with allen wrenches...and there are a number of other hex socket bolts on this car, so a set of hex sockets is a must.

My recollection on the starter is that there are three hex bolts...the two lower ones are quite easy to remove.

The upper one is the one that can make your hair turn grey...however...I remember using a very long extention bar (24" ?) on my 3/8 rachet with the hex socket on the end. From under the car, I went in with the extention from well behind and above the starter, somewhere up behind near the exhaust header..and I was able to find a very small pathway straight to the starter bolt and I could remove it quite easily. Installation of the new one was quite simple as well. If you try to access that bolt from the immediate vicinity of the starter, it is a real problem.

I bought the long extension several years ago to access upper bell housing bolts when changing clutch on my Toyota Corrola..while I havent used this too much since than, there have been a few instances where it has been a lifesafer.

[280CEBoy]

...MarkM hit it it right on the nose....that's the easiest way I've found as well...makes quite a differance....if you had a 1/2" drive long extension it would make life even easier...good luck!

[RunningTooHot]

Starter placement… an example of engineering arrogance at it’s best… Zis Vill NOT Break, Zo You Vil Not Neet to Remove Zis!

I haven't done a starter on my 123, but if you *Really* want to have fun, try it on a 107! I found that the best solution was to string together a whole bunch of extensions (several feet long) and feed them up alongside the transmission through tunnel area.

A word of caution -- the upper hex bolt may be very tight and you certainly don't want to strip the head! Make sure to get a good quality hex socket, and use some spray carburetor cleaner to clean out the head of the hex bolt thoroughly. This way you'll get the socket all the way into it for a good bite.

RTH

[jbaj007]

After cleaning the hex bolt head thoroughly, you can dip your hex bit into some OLD style Ajax cleanser. The fine "grit" apparently gives a better grip on the fastener according to the old-timers.

[william rogers]

Get the very best hex socket, if you know a pro borrow his will probably be a snap on. Soak bolts all night with penetrating oil from a spray can ,on real tight bolts I like to rap the extension with a brass hammer while friend squirts more pen. oil.I like to use a high quality 1/2 inch rachet put pressure on it with one hand and rap handle with same brass hammer ,lots less chance of stripping out the hex or breaking bolt than putting a breaker bar on it and putting super pressure on it.learning how to not break bolts is about half the battle....
William Rogers...

[RunningTooHot]

William Rogers:

That put a smile on my face – old memories. I guess that Ajax is the thing to use nowadays, as nobody has valve grinding compound lying around anymore.

RTH

[skalie]

First time I removed the starter from my 306D, it took about 3 hours, not having the right tools and having to disconnect the exhaust etc.,

I have it, after doing it 20 or so times, down to about 15 minutes now.

[michael rybikowsky]

I just did a starter job on my 80 300td.I cut a section out of an allen wrench,put a boxed in on it and got the starter out.Usually you will find worn brushes,You can buy these and have a like new starter

Today, I had to return a few items at Sear, so I grabbed a 10mm hex socket and 20" extension bar. However, I did not get back to work; I'll give it a whirl tomorrow.
The symptom, anyhow, is that the starter does not crank. Once every other week, or so, the solenoid clicks but nothing else happens. Disturbances ranging from the hood closing to hammer impacts will correct the problem until ~10 days later. I believe that there is either a loose connection between the solenoid and motor OR that there is a dead spot in the motor. When the brushes are worn, would the motor work intermittently?

The hex socket and extension routed thru the space adjacent to the transmission worked great!!! Now I have to wrestle the starter out - I ran out of time before work today... Any tips with that?
Thanks again for the suggestions?
Oh, Michael, if it does seem that the brushes are worn, where can I buy new ones?

I finally received the new solenoid. This morning, I attached it to the starter motor and replaced the positive strap AND installed the starter. WORKS GREAT! Thanks for all the help...