EGR Delete/Remove - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

markho · #16 10-29-2009, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snookwhaler

If you go back and view "my previous posts" Brian showed me how to get rid of the EGR and the ARV stuff. I think that was one of my first few posts? I had a horrible whistling noise. Removing that crap fixed the problem.

On the 85 it is more involved than the earlier cars. I followed his instructions to the letter and everything is great. It is also much cleaner looking under the hood.

Well, this thread started out from another issue involving the Pressure Converter making a rapid tick-tick-tick at 1000 rpm, causing my tach needle to get stuck on the 10, keep ticking, then popping up to normal rpm. The ticking would stop, but return every time I would come near 1000 rpm, and then the needle would get stuck again. Weird huh? Well i disconnected it at DeliveryValve's suggestion (thanks buddy) and it solved the problem. Now I'm trying to decide whether or not to remove what I don't need (EGR Valve) to stem the issue.

The wagon runs just as it did before the unplug of the Pressure converter, but for how long? When will I need this thing? Should I go and get one? Or continue going out to the driveway when the kids are screaming and tinker?

snookwhaler · #17 10-30-2009, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markho

Well, this thread started out from another issue involving the Pressure Converter making a rapid tick-tick-tick at 1000 rpm, causing my tach needle to get stuck on the 10, keep ticking, then popping up to normal rpm. The ticking would stop, but return every time I would come near 1000 rpm, and then the needle would get stuck again. Weird huh? Well i disconnected it at DeliveryValve's suggestion (thanks buddy) and it solved the problem. Now I'm trying to decide whether or not to remove what I don't need (EGR Valve) to stem the issue.

The wagon runs just as it did before the unplug of the Pressure converter, but for how long? When will I need this thing? Should I go and get one? Or continue going out to the driveway when the kids are screaming and tinker?

Found it....

Here.... Follow the instructions in this thread!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=246133

This makes the system much simpler and gets rid of those "worthless" valves, etc... The difference was dramatic in my case!

I dd not "throw the parts in the trash". They are in big ziploc's and will go with the car if I ever sell it. You do not need the item you are calling a "pressure converter".

I like the color of your car!

markho · #18 10-30-2009, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snookwhaler

Found it....

Here.... Follow the instructions in this thread!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=246133

This makes the system much simpler and gets rid of those "worthless" valves, etc... The difference was dramatic in my case!

I dd not "throw the parts in the trash". They are in big ziploc's and will go with the car if I ever sell it. You do not need the item you are calling a "pressure converter".

you have a california vacuum setup? DeliveryValve posted the federal vacuum diagram for me, should I use that one? Or does it matter? I'm not positive to which one I have , I'm going to guess "federal" since the car never lived in CA.

snookwhaler · #19 10-30-2009, 09:29 AM

I realized that after I posted in that particular thread. I was a newbie and new nothing of these cars back then.

The diagram in "that thread" is the correct one to follow as both of those components along with all the associated tubing and elbows are in the diagram.

EDIT: NO, mine is a Federal. That was part of the confusion when I was trying to figure all of this out. Just follow that thread and the diagram in that thread and you'll be fine. You will see all of those components once you start following the diagram. It will make more sense once you get into it.

bobodaclown · #20 10-30-2009, 11:03 AM

Hotter the burn temp the higher the NOx produced. "
When NOx and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) react in the presence of sunlight, they form photochemical smog, a significant form of air pollution, especially in the summer. Children, people with lung diseases such as asthma, and people who work or exercise outside are susceptible to adverse effects of smog such as damage to lung tissue and reduction in lung function.[2]
Mono-nitrogen oxides eventually form nitric acid when dissolved in atmospheric moisture, forming a component of acid rain. The following chemical reaction occurs when nitrogen dioxide reacts with water:"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_oxide

StaggerLee · #21 10-30-2009, 11:07 AM

I disconnected the EGR and associated vacuum lines on my 81 wagon and it made a world of difference.
Prior to, the car was very sluggish off the line. Now it's like a jack-rabbit. Well, maybe not a jack-rabbit but it works a heck of a lot better.

markho · #22 10-30-2009, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobodaclown

Hotter the burn temp the higher the NOx produced. "
When NOx and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) react in the presence of sunlight, they form photochemical smog, a significant form of air pollution, especially in the summer. Children, people with lung diseases such as asthma, and people who work or exercise outside are susceptible to adverse effects of smog such as damage to lung tissue and reduction in lung function.[2]
Mono-nitrogen oxides eventually form nitric acid when dissolved in atmospheric moisture, forming a component of acid rain. The following chemical reaction occurs when nitrogen dioxide reacts with water:"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_oxide

so your saying that the the egr lessens these pollutants?

markho · #23 10-30-2009, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StaggerLee

I disconnected the EGR and associated vacuum lines on my 81 wagon and it made a world of difference.
Prior to, the car was very sluggish off the line. Now it's like a jack-rabbit. Well, maybe not a jack-rabbit but it works a heck of a lot better.

that's encouraging, thanks. I can't complain about the power of the car, I mean I could always use more, but I can't complain. I'm looking forward to the weekend now.

bobodaclown · #24 10-30-2009, 11:10 AM

yes. That is the only reason for the EGR system. To lesson pollution.

markho · #25 10-30-2009, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snookwhaler

I realized that after I posted in that particular thread. I was a newbie and new nothing of these cars back then.

The diagram in "that thread" is the correct one to follow as both of those components along with all the associated tubing and elbows are in the diagram.

EDIT: NO, mine is a Federal. That was part of the confusion when I was trying to figure all of this out. Just follow that thread and the diagram in that thread and you'll be fine. You will see all of those components once you start following the diagram. It will make more sense once you get into it.

one more thank you with one final question. Must I install a plate of some sort to block the port off?

bobodaclown · #26 10-30-2009, 11:24 AM

Nope. The valve is normally closed. VAC is added to open the valve, allowing exhaust to enter the intake. I think the BB trick will work on these vehicles.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=2065091&postcount=6

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=251632&highlight=disable+EGR

toomany MBZ · #27 10-30-2009, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markho

one more thank you with one final question. Must I install a plate of some sort to block the port off?

Only if you physically remove the egr valve itself. If you do, you'll need to block off both ends.
All parts to do that come in the kit Brian sells, see pic 4 in post 9.

DeliveryValve · #28 10-30-2009, 03:18 PM

If your transmission is shifts fine with the pressure converter unplugged and you wish to have your EGR and ARV removed, here is what I would recommend to delete as follows in the diagram. The red cross marks are to be eliminated. Also note the vacuum lines to be plugged.
Make sure the left over electrical connections are sealed and will not be grounded.

EDIT: Before attempting to physically remove the items I stated, I would first plug the two vacuum lines I suggested and unplugging electrical power to #81 and #84 on the diagram. Then test the transmission shifting to see if it has any change that is not to your satisfaction. If satisfied, then you could physically remove such items.

Physically removing these items will tidy up your engine compartment a bit.

.

dcotejr · #29 10-30-2009, 04:34 PM

I have never messed with the vacuum in my 1981 300SD, beyond the ball bearing in the EGR line trick. I want to get my door/trunk locking mechanism working, any clean up under the hood if possible.

Would the '85 diagram apply to help me work through this??

toomany MBZ · #30 10-30-2009, 04:54 PM

Not on an SD, the lock system is unrelated to the engine vacuum system. It is a stand alone unit powered by an electric motor in the trunk.