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  #1  
Old 11-07-2009, 06:21 PM
funola's Avatar
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Buzzing air cleaner housing

I just replaced all 3 air cleaner shock mounts and to my dismay it still buzzes and vibrates violantly at cold start as I rev the engine before it warms up and the idle smooths out. Anyone else experience this and do I need to adjust valves?

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  #2  
Old 11-07-2009, 07:35 PM
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As you thought you will need to correct whatever is causing the Vibration.

I am not sure which car you are having the problem on but on my Federal 300D I put a piece of Heater Hose between the Intak Manifold and that side of the Air Filter Housing. I do not remember what size I used as I just scrounged some old hose out of my Garage.

But, since that time I have also fixed the list of things that caused the vibration.

Another temp fix might be to apply your Glow Plugs several cycles at startup.
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  #3  
Old 11-07-2009, 08:00 PM
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Look for a hairline crack in "the housing" where it faces the valve cover. I can get a picture of what it looks like tomorrow.

Also, check the bracket that holds the mounts for hairline cracks.

Annoying as hell.
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  #4  
Old 11-07-2009, 09:00 PM
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huh?
 
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I don't remember, but I think you need to remove the airfilter bracket? Did you?

I ask because I had a problem with similar buzzing/vibration after I did this repair. Though it was constant and only change pitch when warm. I attributed that phenom to smoother idle/etc. when warm.

I replaced both the bracket and mounts, but over-tightened/cross-threaded the bracket bolt that goes directly into the engine block. The one that is hard to see and requires a universal joint socket extension. I used a wobble extension and got it all wrong. It was this loose connection that was the culprit.

If you determine that the bracket is at fault, replace it with the OEM part. It costs twice as much, but will hopefully last longer. The bracket I bought was aftermarket and lasted all of 3 months before snapping in half (the arm that extends out towards the passenger side fender. Still broken, I just live with it. I plan on getting it fixed when engine mounts are due because its my opinion that'll break again if things aren't as smooth as possible.

Like another member suggested, you might try adding a buffer between the air can and valve cover. Search the forum for this fix if you're not familiar. I've got a hole drilled in the air filter housing and a rubber buffer bolted in to help with the knocking against the valve cover. You could probably troubleshoot a little with rubber hose etc. Place a piece in between the airfilter housing and valve cover. Does it get quiet?

For such a well-engineered engine, I can't believe they didn't get this one right...
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2009, 08:33 AM
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Make sure the oil drain from the bottom of the air cleaner housing is lined up to the drain tube just below.
I'll add the "don't ask how I know" statement.
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  #6  
Old 11-08-2009, 09:22 AM
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll check for cracks in the housing and the manifold mount. As for the drain tube from the air cleaner, it is seated with a new o-ring. It wasn't seated before and I tried to take it out to clean but I couldn't get it out. What has to come off first to get that pesky drain tube out?
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  #7  
Old 11-08-2009, 10:04 AM
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If you are speaking of the bottm section of the tube I am not sure. But, I read a thread somewhere that there is a 1 way Valve at the bottom of that tube accessed by removing the small Oil Pan (on my model).
It may be there is something retaining the tube down there also.

See if you can find a parts breakdown at the Russian EPC site:
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb0.asp?TP=1
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  #8  
Old 11-08-2009, 09:13 PM
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Here's what I can pull up.
Attached Thumbnails
Buzzing air cleaner housing-turbo-drain.jpg   Buzzing air cleaner housing-turbo-oil-return-cropped.jpg  
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  #9  
Old 12-09-2009, 06:18 PM
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I found that even with new air cleaner bracket and mounting bushings, it still shook a little too much for me. I stepped up the idle speed just a tiny bit and it smoothed out enough that the shaking pretty much stopped.
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2009, 11:34 PM
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These air cleaner mount/brackets seem to break at the spot welds.
I think a simple fix, and maybe do it to a new bracket, is to drill a hole
and insert a bolt to make it more secure.

What do you think?

This is a engine I just brought home from PNP, what looks like a fairly new
bracket, but the spot welds were broken.

Charlie
Attached Thumbnails
Buzzing air cleaner housing-84-300d-pulling-eng.-7-6-09-s.j.-pnp-97-500-mi-045-medium-.jpg   Buzzing air cleaner housing-steam-cleaning-pnp-eng.-7-9-09-023-medium-.jpg  
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #11  
Old 12-10-2009, 12:36 AM
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Where is the best place to find these 'dreaded' air shock mounts?

Thanks!
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #12  
Old 12-10-2009, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
These air cleaner mount/brackets seem to break at the spot welds.
I think a simple fix, and maybe do it to a new bracket, is to drill a hole
and insert a bolt to make it more secure.

What do you think?

This is a engine I just brought home from PNP, what looks like a fairly new
bracket, but the spot welds were broken.

Charlie
I did just that on one of my 300SDs. Worked fine until the bracket finally broke at the rear most point of one of the rubber mounting bushings. I have also found that it is useful to put a bolt underneath the mounting bushings because they have tendency to loosen and the "waller" (that's a southern expression) out the hole where they won't stay screwed in tight anymore.

All in all, this whole setup is bad design in my opinion and I would consider replacing the whole air cleaner setup with an air filter that bolts to the turbo intake itself. I've seen some pictures of cars that have been modified with this setup and believe it is the only real long term solution. Otherwise just plan on constantly replacing the mounting bushings about every year and the bracket about every 2-3 years.
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2009, 12:48 PM
sd300td's Avatar
huh?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsmartin View Post
I did just that on one of my 300SDs. Worked fine until the bracket finally broke at the rear most point of one of the rubber mounting bushings. I have also found that it is useful to put a bolt underneath the mounting bushings because they have tendency to loosen and the "waller" (that's a southern expression) out the hole where they won't stay screwed in tight anymore.

All in all, this whole setup is bad design in my opinion and I would consider replacing the whole air cleaner setup with an air filter that bolts to the turbo intake itself. I've seen some pictures of cars that have been modified with this setup and believe it is the only real long term solution. Otherwise just plan on constantly replacing the mounting bushings about every year and the bracket about every 2-3 years.
Or leave it broken.
__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
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  #14  
Old 12-10-2009, 05:10 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian White View Post
Where is the best place to find these 'dreaded' air shock mounts?

Thanks!
If you're referring to those buffers, click the buy parts button up top.
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  #15  
Old 12-11-2009, 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsmartin View Post
I did just that on one of my 300SDs. Worked fine until the bracket finally broke at the rear most point of one of the rubber mounting bushings. I have also found that it is useful to put a bolt underneath the mounting bushings because they have tendency to loosen and the "waller" (that's a southern expression) out the hole where they won't stay screwed in tight anymore.

All in all, this whole setup is bad design in my opinion and I would consider replacing the whole air cleaner setup with an air filter that bolts to the turbo intake itself. I've seen some pictures of cars that have been modified with this setup and believe it is the only real long term solution. Otherwise just plan on constantly replacing the mounting bushings about every year and the bracket about every 2-3 years.
Did you mean a NUT underneath the mounting bushing?

I did that when I installed new bushings. I screwed them down, then got
to thinking it might help to also have a nut. So I used those NY-Lock
nuts. yeah it is a weak design.

You would never want to admit to using one of those "Other Air" cleaners
for fear of being flame broiled.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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