This is for the 300SDL - I took apart the driver side rear door because the glass window quit going up and down - found the plastic slider disintegrated under the glass - will need replacing...

To get to the mechanism inside the door, I had to peel off the clear plastic sheeting which got pretty torn up in the process, so I rolled it up and threw it away....

Now some questions:

1) What can I use to replace that thin plastic sheet?! What is it used for anyway!? Guessing some kind of draft protection...

2) Should I make any special tools for the door re-assembly?! It was pretty hard to get these hooks off - I can imagine that it will be even harder to hang that panel back up on those hooks just right - what's the best way to reinstall the door panel?!

I've searched for some threads and found some, but nothing that tells me how to re-assemble.

Thanks,
james

__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

The plastic sheet does act as an effective draft barrier, but in the reality it's most important function is a water and vapor barrier to protect the door card's back side. The door card is made of a type of molded and compressed cardboard like material, it is not waterproof. In bone yards you will find many of the door cards that have been reinstalled without the plastic barrier are water and mould damaged as a result.

Any polyethylene sheeting will do, a little heavier than lighter is better. A trick used in restorations which works great is to get some Butyl Rubber Rope of the type used to seat old style windshields. Break off a piece maybe 2-3” long, roll this section into a long thin string about 1/8’ in diameter, it’s easier to roll it when its warm but it will stick to your hands more. Take that string of butyl rubber and stick it all around on the door perimeter, then you can lay the poly sheet against the door and it will stick onto the butyl rubber and stay in place. The butyl flattens right out, never dries, or gets hard and the poly can be lifted and repositioned forever.

Once you get the new poly in place I use a fine tip soldering iron to make any cut-outs or flaps for hooks, door handle, wiring, etc. The soldering iron instantly melts the poly making a nice opening with a strong melted edge to it.

The only trick is to remember the puddle light and window/seat switch wiring before you slide the door card into final position! If the puddle light wiring does not have an insulating cover over the positive terminal put a piece of black electrical tape over it to prevent it from shorting against the ground wire or the chassis, because the wire will likely be hot with the door open! Oh, if you have a straight type door lock knob handy use that on the lock rod, its easier to position the door card in place over the straight type knob than no knob at all because the threaded rod is usually just short enough to be a pain when your trying to get the trim around the knob opening over it.

What's the best way to seat those plastic hooks on the door panel in their proper positions.... hope I don't bust any of them trying...

__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K