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  #1  
Old 11-12-2009, 05:29 PM
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Question Looking for Clutch Line Replacement Help

Have been informed by mechanic that the reason my clutch (installed last February) has burned out and requires replacement is because the clutch line that runs between the clutch master and slave is frayed/defective and this has caused the early death of the replacement clutch. I have a 1982 MB 240D sedan.

Have been looking at parts websites and cannot seem to find this part. My mechanic has contacted MB directly and it will be several weeks before they acquire a replacment part.

Any thoughts on where I might find this part at a reasonable price in a more timely fashion?????

Thanks.

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  #2  
Old 11-12-2009, 06:35 PM
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I think I may have what you're looking for. The rubber line is attached to the piping. You'll have to bend the piping back, but it doesn't leak. $20 + shipping, you do paypal, I can have it out by tomorrow.
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  #3  
Old 11-12-2009, 06:57 PM
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Something is odd about that diagnosis in my opinion. Why would a bad clutch line cause failure of a clutch? I could see where it might hinder the action of the clutch requiring multiple pumps on the clutch pedal to get the clutch to function but I don't see any connection between the line and either the clutch disc or the pressure plate. Perhaps other people can see the connection, but I would be suspicious.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #4  
Old 11-12-2009, 08:03 PM
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Well, I'm with Kerry on this one until we can get more info. Is the line leaking if it is frayed? What exactly does your mechanic mean when he says that the clutch is "burnt out"?

Actually, let's back up - tell us what symptoms you were experiencing that made you take the car into the shop. Do you know which parts you had replaced last Feb?

If you have more info that would be helpful in diagnosing the problem. You certainly don't want a leaky line, but that shouldn't cause premature failure of your clutch.
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'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
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Last edited by tankowner; 11-12-2009 at 10:02 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-12-2009, 09:25 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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x3.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #6  
Old 11-12-2009, 09:42 PM
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Dammit, guys, I'm trying to sell my crap

x4
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  #7  
Old 11-12-2009, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
Dammit, guys, I'm trying to sell my crap

x4
Ha - Sorry JE. Doesn't mean it won't be needed, you might still have a sale on your hands.
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman

Last edited by tankowner; 11-13-2009 at 12:52 PM.
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  #8  
Old 11-13-2009, 06:40 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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Quote:
Have been informed by mechanic that the reason my clutch (installed last February) has burned out and requires replacement is because the clutch line that runs between the clutch master and slave is frayed/defective and this has caused the early death of the replacement clutch. I have a 1982 MB 240D sedan.
So, in other words, don't blame me for installing your clutch backwards and inside out, there was this obscure , mechanical defect....

Did he use a new clutch or were you trying to drag with the ricers? This diagnosis makes no sense at this point.

Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #9  
Old 11-13-2009, 12:42 PM
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Using the clutch peddle for a foot rest will apply pressure and cause slipping of the clutch.

Also if there is pressure on the master cyl from being out of adjustment in the linkage, will also cause a problem.
the only adjustment I see on the MB is the rod going into the master cylinder, or the ecentric bushing at the master. there are 2 rod lengths I know of.

Looking at the parts, there are the early and the later throw out bearing and master cylinder depending on chassis mfg date.

between the master and the slave cylinder is the 2 metal supply lines with the short rubber hose connecting the 2 together.
I bought the section with the rubber hose fron the dealer, around $70.
comes as a straight piece and has to be formed to fit. over the transmisson to the Slave. just go easy on the bends, I used my thumbs and make sure the pipe is warm.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

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  #10  
Old 11-13-2009, 03:27 PM
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I would definitely get a second opinion. If the line is frayed (and I assume leaking) then your clutch probably needs to be bled. I can't see any relationship between a frayed line and and the clutch disks wearing out prematurely. I would also request the old clutch if you have them replace it.

But, as others have stated, the more information you can provide, the more accurate the answer will be. I just dont see any relation between the two.

Good luck!
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  #11  
Old 11-15-2009, 10:06 AM
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Thanks for Getting Back

I am at a distinct DISADVANTAGE as I am not mechanically astute when it comes to this car. The mechanic is a pretty good one. I was suspicious of the reason for the new clutch burning out, and I suppose he had to come up with SOME reason for this happening after only 10 months of wear.

The clutch began to slip between third and fourth gears several weeks ago.....would accelerate without actually catching the higher gear. It then started to do same thing between second and third gear, especially on steep hill climbs. It finally started to fail completely late last week and I had to have the car towed to the mechanic from the road.

In the final analysis, I am a captive prisoner to this fellow for the time being and need this part to get the car out of the garage. He has ordered new part directly from MB but don't know when it will be available.

JEBALLES: If it is going to take longer than arrival by Tuesday, I will take you up on your offer for the used part (although I am adverse to putting a used part into the car as this might just cause more problems). I will contact you on Tuesday AM if I need the part.

I asked the mechanic to check all the linkages to insure that something other than the clutch was NOT THE PROBLEM so that I don't have to replace the new clutch in another 10 months. He did this and came up with this clutch line ISSUE that he has identified. Said it would act like I was riding the clutch over the 10-month span and that THIS was the cause for the failure of the new OEM replacement part installed last February.

Thanks for your input. Will advise you of progress, if any, on this front.
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  #12  
Old 11-15-2009, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teddyd49 View Post
He did this and came up with this clutch line ISSUE that he has identified. Said it would act like I was riding the clutch over the 10-month span and that THIS was the cause for the failure of the new OEM replacement part installed last February.
.
Makes no sense to me at all. A leaking line will reduce pressure on the slave cylinder thereby not allowing clutch riding. Something is awry with this diagnosis. I don't know if it's possible to set up this kind of MB clutch with a permanent load on the activating rod coming from the slave cylinder. This might cause the problem but again I doubt it.
Did you see the old parts when the mechanic replaced the clutch originally? What were your symptoms that caused you to replace the clutch originally?
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #13  
Old 11-16-2009, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Said it would act like I was riding the clutch over the 10-month span and that THIS was the cause for the failure of the new OEM replacement part installed last February.
Pure unadulterated BS.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2009, 08:39 AM
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I did not see the new or used part installed in the car when it was replaced earlier last year.

Am at a loss as to what might cause this to happen. This mechanic is MB certified and has been working on (specializing) on MB/Audi/BMW cars old and new for about 30 years in the area.

The same symptoms occurred when the clutch first started to fail as when it failed the second time. I had had this car for about 7 years without any clutch problems until last year.

There must be something going on inside the set up of the clutch to make this happen. He orders new (not reconditioned) parts that are OEM in almost all instances...and charges top dollar for same.

rs899: Why is this diagnosis unadulterated BS? And do you have a fix that might help out in this issue? Thanks.
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  #15  
Old 11-16-2009, 08:41 AM
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Enabling email notification so I can respond more quickly.....

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