![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
How difficult to install IP on '82 300 TD Wagon
So I need to replace the IP on my '82 300 TD. Is it hard to do, or just time consuming? Is it something that someone with average mechanical ability should be able to do?
Also, should I just put on a used one, or spring for a $700 rebuilt one? |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Really?
How do you know you need a new IP. It is very rare for them to wear out.
__________________
Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I have replaced all the rubber fuel lines in the engine bay, but have not replaced the rubber lines that connect the diesel tank to the main fuel lines. Someone mentioned to me that I could try replacing the o-rings on the IP under the fuel valves. I don't know where to get them though. Any suggestions on where ti find them? |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
air leak
Sounds to me like you have to work harder to find the air leak. Replace the IP and I'll bet your problem is still there.
__________________
Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Yeah, I think you might be right. Might as well exhaust all possible problems before replacing the IP.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Is the primer pump original? you might try that first as well, if that has a leak you could be introducing air everytime you try and prime it. As well as sucking in air with the IP (through the primer pump) during operation
__________________
1982 240 460,000 miles total 140,000 on Rebuild |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I replaced the old priming pump earlier this summer. Perhaps the new pump is leaking, but I have not seen any puddles of fuel under the car or anything.
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Did you replace it with the old style white/clear or the new black? The old ones are notorius for leaking.
If you get stumped and we can't help you (I bet the forum helps you figure it out) I would take it to a different mechanic. Electrical IPs wear a lot more rapidly than our mechanical ones. Replace the IP is a common step most mechanics do...problem is on our cars, the IPs will most likley outlast the engine.
__________________
2009 ML320 Bluetec 1985 300CD 1981 300TD ![]() Past Mercedes 1979 300TD 1982 300TD 2000 E320 4Matic Wagon 1998 E430 1984 300SD 1980 300SD |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
If this does not work, continue tracing the line all the way back to the tank.
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done ![]() ![]() ![]() 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home ![]() 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home ![]() 84 300D - Found Another Home ![]() 80 300TD - Found Another Home ![]() Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Recently I had an issue where after the car ran for about 15 minutes it would run really rough, stumble, cut off at idle and be hard to restart for until it cooled down. I replaced all lines, filters, clamps, primer pump. Finally swapped out fuel lift pump with a junkyard one and haven't had the problem since. Id try lift pump before ip if all else has been exhausted
__________________
![]() 1996 E300 110,000 1985 300TD 212,000 1980 300D 238,000 Last edited by johninva; 11-16-2009 at 09:24 PM. |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
I agree with the rest if you are seeing Air Bubbles you have an Air Leak. You actuall diagnosed the problem yourself. (Why I never take anything to a Mechanic; the think they know what they are doing but don't.)
The reason you do not see Fuel leaks when you have an Air leak is because there is 14.7psi of atmospheric pressure at sea level pushing on the hoses and such all the time and Fuel is thicker than Air. Combine the 14.7psi pushing in and the negative pressure inside when the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump is operating and you get an Air Leak through areas Fuel will not come out of. You can change the 2 sections of Fuel Hose that hook to the Plastic Primary Filter for a few dollars with SAE 5/16 30R7 Fuel Hose that sells at any Auto Parts store. It is rated for Diesel Fuel as well as Gas. Look under the Car at the Hoses that come out of the Fuel Tank and see if they look old and cracked. Also this is the place you might see the Hoses seeping as it is the lowes place in the Fuel System. Or you could simply drain you Fuel Tank and change the Hoses. All the Hose changing is way cheaper and less complicated than the IP replacement you had in mind. The Hand Primer is the next likely source of an air leak.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Yes, that is the only part that can create the suction/negative pressure to for the Air Leak to take advantage of.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|