All input is appreciated.
The first nipple, red highlight, shows 20 inHg. CCU works, but is slow to respond. Shuts off, yet a few seconds after key removal, new shut off actuator.
The second nipple, green highlight, shows zero.
Shifts mostly good.
And what is that round white item with the large clear vac line and where does it go?
Vacuum stickies aren't working.

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83 SD

84 CD

The nipple that's highlighted in red provides vacuum to the cabin with two lines - the red w/green stripe for the climate control vacuum pods, and the other goes to the ignition then back to the injection pump, for vacuum shut-off of the car.

The nipple that's highlighted in green goes into the engine bay to provide vacuum for the transmission and EGR system, you're best off just finding a diagram if you want to understand those. You're lucky you have the year you do, the 84-85 cali and 85 federal versions are much more complicated. Although i'm in the process of removing all the lines for EGR to simplify the system and reduce the number of locations that could leak and make my transmission shift harder.

The clear line tees off and goes to a pair of vacuum reservoirs, one underneath each fender. If you want to see what those look like, look at the pictures in pwogaman's thread, "don't bring a sebring to a fight with a w126".


"The first nipple, red highlight, shows 20 inHg. CCU works, but is slow to respond. Shuts off, yet a few seconds after key removal, new shut off actuator."
Did you test the vacuum with a hand pump pulling on JUST the climate control, or with a tee when the engine was running? If you want to test the pods, it's helpful to do it with a hand pump pulling on JUST the red/green line. By checking for leaks with the car off, on w/ CCU off, and on w/ CCU on with different buttons pressed you can narrow down which (if any) pods are leaking.

"The second nipple, green highlight, shows zero."
This is a little more complicated. Have you disabled your EGR? If so, you can disconnect the switchover valve (black box on top of valve cover) and cap off the vacuum lines they were connected to, and see if the system still leaks. If it does, then the transmission vacuum becomes relevant, and you'll need to read up on how vacuum control of the transmission works to properly fix all that.

Good luck!

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-Brian

1984 300SD, 375XXX miles, Light Ivory w/ Palomino TEX

Okay, I put a gauge right on the nipple without a tee off of either red w/green or brown, engine running.
Second nipple plugged off, third nipple plugged off, I get 22 inHg.
I am getting vacuum to the third nipple that goes to the in fender reservoir tanks, now I know, thanks. Pic.
The egr system has been disabled. All associated lines plugged off.
I have not yet tested the CCU with the mity vac.
I do have the switchover valve in the loop, as I've adjusted the ALDA, and feel better with it there.
The only item that is not getting vacuum is the transmission and it seems to be shifting okay, how does that work?
Appreciate the input.

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83 SD

84 CD

Say "toomany MBZ" could you post where you got your vacuum detail? I have an '82 300SD and trying to figure out some vacuum issues as well.

Thanks for your help.

marky-maypo

I just chimed in on your other post. I'm confident I have the routing right, but like to confirm.
As an update, I poked a hole in the second nipple and now get 18 inHg, that's too much as I understand and got terrible flaring, so I plugged the line and now am back to where I was. The pic in post ## came from the epc, available here: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/home.jspc

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83 SD

84 CD