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#16
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Yes, there is an adapter for the glow plugs..
the main thing is the old ones were wired like old Xmass lights.. one goes out... none of the work.. that is the main reason to switch... I also think Bosch is the highly recommended one in the pin type...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#17
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Concerning the rust ....
the main thing no matter how much rust or not you get to begin with... is... FIND the water drains and keep them clean... these cars have a LOT of them....and several are HIDDEN !!!!
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#18
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I 've had ten or twelve 240ds. the newer the better in my experience. My dd is an 83.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#19
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Thank you, everyone, for all the advice. Sounds like a 1980 - 81 with the Type I A/C and pin glow-plugs is the way to go. Definitely 4-speed. I'll keep my eyes peeled for rust and the drain holes. Other things to look out for:
- Overall cosmetic condition (exterior/interior) - Suspension bushings/alignment issues/steering wheel play - Proper maintenance (service records) - No leaks - No green anti-freeze - Fresh brake fluid - Clear power steering fluid - Functioning door locks/antenna/gauges/radio - No grinding of gears/smooth clutch operation - Cold start issues - Blow-by If I'm forgetting anything, feel free to add. I just came across a 1980 4-speed. Black on tan. 250k. It's on craigslist in Los Angeles (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/1495335295.html). The car looks like it's in amazing shape. It has the type I A/C and the pin glow-plugs (I e-mailed the owner). He wants $4500 for it, which is on the high side. The car also has a second fuel tank, but doesn't have the original radio (a minus for me). Any thoughts?
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Alex 1984 300CD - Silver/Blue - 326,000 miles (sold) 1979 240D - Canary/Brown - 221,222 miles (I love this car) |
#20
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Sounds like he was messing with alternative fuels....
a caution in terms of the fuel routing to me...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#21
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The service records are interesting..
but I think knowing the present physical condition is more important...if a person accidentally ran it out of oil... or overheated it .... etc... the records would not show that. thus I think the slightly more than one hundred dollars to get an independant ' lemon busters' type check by a pro is well worth the cost... particularly when you get over two grand...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#22
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I'd avoid any of the ACC-equipped cars.
So far as I'm aware, all 240Ds had manual heat & AC. The vertical thumbwheel on those was only an AC temperature control. If rust protection matters on this old a car, my choice would be a 1982-built or later 240D, as the W123s got full plastic front fender liners that year. And apperently only calender-year '82 & later, as my first '82 240D, built in late '81, doesn't have them. Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
#23
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Quote:
I think that whether the previous owners knew where the water drains were AND kept them clean is way more important than the year make differences in ' rust proofing' MB ' did ' .....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#24
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Not necessarily...my '79 240D was outfitted by the MBZ dealer (when brand new in 1979) with a 21 gallon auxiliary diesel fuel tank in the trunk. Due to the fuel crisis back then, such aux tanks for diesel Benzes were all the rage. That car could go for 1,100+ miles without a fillup! When I sold the car, I removed the aux tank and still have it to this day. I may some day install it in my '83. If this is the type of tank that you're talking about, it's a rarity now and actively sought out by some.
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#25
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Quote:
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#26
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Quote:
US-market W123 300D/CD/TD all had it. First a trouble-prone Chysler-based servo-amplifier system. Then an electronic system that is now suspect in the destruction by fire of a Forum-member's 300D. In the past three years, I've acquired four (and sold one) W123s. The two 240Ds built before 1982 were badly rusted around & behind the headlights. My '84 Euro 300TD and latest '82-built 240D have the front fender-liners and haven't rusted in those areas. Most of the rust I've encountered on these cars starts with water leaks through old windshield gaskets, or where rust has perforated under the battery, the hood-hinge pockets, and behind old undercoating in the wheel-wells, eventually rotting the floors and inner-sills. Bottom line is to find the best-condition example possible, but be prepared to pay. My first rust-bucket 240D was a $225 car, and I put an additional $900 in it, including seats, carpets, hubcaps upper ball-joints, and a rear control-arm. I paid $1300 for my latest, almost rust-free, 240D, with a near-perfect interior. But it needed tires, windshield & gasket, rear axles, alternator and AC compressor. So far, I have an additional $1300 in it now. What price perfection? Since I bought my first 240D, I've seen others advertised as perfect, low-mile examples, for $6000 to well over $10,000. I think I read about one, pristine & very low-mile example, on eBay recently - for over $20,000! Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 12-10-2009 at 06:55 AM. |
#27
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As a new 240D owner I can only ditto what others have said here. In addition, one thing I learned after looking at about a dozen 240's and 300's is, Pictures LIE. The car I finally bought had crappy pics and a not very good description and turned out to be a fairly rare 84 Euro 4speed in really nice condition. Yes, it's an 84. Doesn't have climate control. AC blows ice cold. I'd say don't buy the first one you look at. They seem to be sitting on CL for quite a while here in the west. Find something wrong with it to bargain with. Heck, tires should get you 500 off the price, shocks another 500, you saved a grand right there. Good luck, get a newer 4spd and you'll love it. Mine does 70 uphill all day and loves it. Maybe 60
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You're a daisy if you do. __________________________________ 84 Euro 240D 4spd. 220.5k sold 04 Honda Element AWD 1985 F150 XLT 4x4, 351W with 270k miles, hay hauler 1997 Suzuki Sidekick 4x4 1993 Toyota 4wd Pickup 226K and counting |
#28
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Thanks, all. I'll be back in California for the holidays and I'll check the car out. Jay, I think I agree that the auxiliary tank was professionally installed way back when for fuel range purposes. He mentioned something like that when I exchanged e-mails with him, but I wasn't sure what he was talking about at the time.
As far as the ACC, I checked the FSM and the type I system had the three knobs as opposed to the spring-loaded buttons. The type II and III were both push-button systems so as long as there aren't any buttons on the dash, you've got a type I. Later type I's had a vertical wheel for the A/C control, earlier ones had the knob. I think Mark is right--all 240's had the type I system, but I'm not sure. I think I'm closer to $3,500 for the car. I'll check it out in a few weeks and will report back. Thanks again, everyone.
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Alex 1984 300CD - Silver/Blue - 326,000 miles (sold) 1979 240D - Canary/Brown - 221,222 miles (I love this car) |
#29
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Mine has a vertical temp wheel in the center and temp control dials on either side of it. Turn the wheel all the way down to the white portion and the AC compressor is off. Turn it into the blue and the comp. comes on. Temp dials are for heat/defrost. Type I. I never heard of a 240 with Climate Control. I think they're all type I.
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You're a daisy if you do. __________________________________ 84 Euro 240D 4spd. 220.5k sold 04 Honda Element AWD 1985 F150 XLT 4x4, 351W with 270k miles, hay hauler 1997 Suzuki Sidekick 4x4 1993 Toyota 4wd Pickup 226K and counting |
#30
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I do have an '81 240D 4 spd. I piad $1600 for it. I have probably $4K-6K in parts in it. Plus a lot of work and time. There is still work to do on it. Mine is fairly rust free, mainly just scratches with surface rust. I would see what repairs or parts replacement has been done on the one post on Craigs list. Also, what parts might need to be replaced. I went through mine, timing chain and related components, hoses-belts-water pump, rebuilt PS pump-steering box-hoses, replaced all brake calipers-pads-rotors-brake booster-master cylinder ($600-$700 right there), etc. I'd say I still have some suspension parts to replace and paint. So, $4500 might not be a bad price. Just depends on what was done, if done properly, and what needs to be done. And don't go on about how expensive MB parts are. They aren't that badly priced. I have done simular work on my Ford Contours and Jeep Comanche. About the same price. I just think MBs were built a bit better, so they ran a bit farther with the original parts. Then you get one, it can need a lot of parts, but still be running.
Tom |
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