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#1
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Turbo Oil Return Line Seal? - CURRR....
I am trying to put in a new seal on the turbo oil return line on a 83 - 300 SD! I read quite a few posts and printed out the manual but STILL have problems.
Here is what I did to replace the seal: - Taking out old seal was pretty easy since it was hard and crumbled. - After the seal was out I could press the pipe further down which made it fairly easy to take to top pipe connecting to the turbo out. - I put a hose clamp around the lower pipe a piece of wood against it and hammered it out in now time. - I took the lower oil pan off to get all the particles out from the crumbled seal. I was surprised that in contrast to what is out on the forum I HAVE NO CHECK Valve at the bottom of the pipe. - I inserted the new seal in the lower oil pan which I put half way up on the oil tube to avoid catching the o-ring with the upper lip of the grommet. - Then I used a long C-Clamp to press it in. The c-clamp works great! I can get it in so it sits about 3/4 of an inch above the bottom surface of the oil upper oil pan. - IF I PRESS IT IN FURTHER the seal is destroyed and the bottom part shears off. - The way it is in now I can not get the top pipe in and I trying very hard. I can get the lower pipe inserted into the top one but I can not bend it back to be straight up. It seams that the lower oil pipe is sticking at least 1/2 and inch to much out. - DO I MISS SOMETHING? DO I HAVE TO take the turbo off. IF I leave the seal off and insert it all the way down into the oil pan it goes together quite nicely! (almost too easy!) ANY HELP APPRECIATED! |
#2
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Your bottom tube is not completely seated. Push or lever it down with some force to get it all the way in. I just had this same problem and had to tap it down with a piece of soft wood before I could remount my turbo.
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#3
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Turbo Oil return Line grommet...
I TRIED to apply force and can get it down some but the inner part of the grommet is then destroyed. It shears off the lower ring on the grommet. I will post a picture. DOES the oil return line sit at the bottom of the tube in the oil pan?
THANKS... |
#4
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This is the best detailed how to do it I have seen. Have you read this one?
I haven`t done this job, so can`t really advise you. http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TurboDrainTube Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#5
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I read and tried this!
Quote:
IT LOOKS to me that grommet is either not well made or supposed to shear off with is stupid really not meeting my expectations of GERMAN engineering. Cheers.... |
#6
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Have a look at this..
Cheers mate! http://benzguy.piczo.com/oilpanturbooilreturntubegrometandsealreplacement.?cr=7&linkvar=000044
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Cheers Big Dan MEng Visit my Blog.. http://allformercedesbenz.blogspot.com/ www.benzguy.piczo.com If at first you don't succeed, Skydiving is not for you. ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE IS NO MATCH FOR NATURAL STUPIDITY. If anything can go wrong,fix it! The hell with Murphy!! I never think of the future.It comes soon enough. |
#7
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I have done this job at least three times. First by some DIY articles and once by reading this: http://www.mbz.org/articles/engine/diesel/seals/
Contrary to some popular beliefs, you don't need to force the downtube through the grommet after installation, which nearly always shredds the grommet. Instead, place the well-lubed (I found that an assembly lube works best.) grommet on the bottom portion of the drain tube, install the o-rings on both ends and insert the bottom tube into the bottom drain hole. Place the top tube onto the bottom and push down all the way. Move into place to install the gasket and bolt to the turbo. Once the tube is bolted to the turbo, pull down on the grommet and seat it into the bottom drain hole. Installation is the easier part of this job and there have been, I believe, some misunderstandings as to the proper method. Try this and you will see what I mean.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#8
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try this link
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~shell As of 2/2010: 2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0 13.6 @ 106mph 10K mi 1984 300SD 260K mi and going and going... 97 S600 46K miles 1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with) www.se-r.net |
#9
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I get to do this job this coming weekend. For now I used QuickSteel to make a "barrier" around the leak.....it stopped most of it.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#10
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I used 2 long, cheap, 3/8 drive extensions to tap it down.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#11
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Pushing the oil return tube through the grommet - look what happens...
Here is the picture of the grommmet after I tried to push the oil return line through with the grommmet inserted into the flange! NO WAY TO NOT SHEAR it OFF!
I try to tap it in from the top tomorrow. To frustrated to touch the car today! Thanks, Franz |
#12
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CHECK valves are no longer availible!!
I was just trying to purchase some check valves from the MB dealer and they said it is no longer available! Where can I get some?
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Bookmarks |
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