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#1
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Mixing gas w/diesel for cold start?
In spite of new glow plugs, my 1985 300D will not start when the temp drops to around 20 degrees F overnight. Block heater is out of the question as I live off-grid. My buddy who drives a VW Rabbit says that VW recommends mixing up to 25% gasoline in the wintertime. I'm wondering if this will work on my Benz? I sure don't want to do it if it will damage the engine or fuel system. Anybody got any input on this? Thanks.....Dave
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#2
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It was about 32 here the other day and my 76 300D started up 1st try and only took 2 turns of the motor. Check those glowplugs again and make sure all 5 are working and also check the relay.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#3
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Quote:
I'm going to cut and paste what I wrote in a thread over at benzworld. I doubt gelling diesel is your problem. Quote:
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#4
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Valves
I just did a valve adjustment on my TD for the first time. A whole different car! Starts right up without all that smoke it once had. I also bought a new battery. Glow plugs tested fine but I did pull them and ream.
So do a valve adjustment
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08 R320 CDI current Past 95 E420 87 300D Turbo 5spd 90 300TE 83 300SD 85 300TD 92 400E 85 190D |
#5
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Quote:
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My Mercedes-Benz Homepage and W123 Owners Photo Gallery and W111/W112 Coupes & Convs Gallery 2005 Northeast GTG and 2005 Mid-Atlantic GTG and Summer '09 Central FL GTG on YouTube |
#6
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Merecedes owner's manuals (Mine's from 1980) used to suggests adding up to 50% kerosene or up to 30% regular unleaded gasoline in very cold temperatures, if #1 diesel was not available. I don't know when they stopped recommending it. Steve
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1980 300 TD 1997 Dodge Pickup/Cummins 5.9 12-valve |
#7
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Quote:
Obviously to combat against the extreme cold temp's gelling effect. At these frigid temps, battery and glow plugs must be 100% up to snuff at a minimum.
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My Mercedes-Benz Homepage and W123 Owners Photo Gallery and W111/W112 Coupes & Convs Gallery 2005 Northeast GTG and 2005 Mid-Atlantic GTG and Summer '09 Central FL GTG on YouTube |
#8
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I guess this is one of the challenges of living off-grid that hasn't been in the press. One thing you can do is to remove the battery and take it inside so it stays warm until you need it to start the car. Batteries lose much of their power when they are cold.
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#9
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20 degrees is not cold enough to cause fuel problems. Do some more checking on your glow plugs and if they check out, do a compression test. 20 degrees should not be a problem on a relatively healthy engine with functioning glow plugs.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#10
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I live off grid too and in North Dakota so my diesels have had to be started on some really cold mornings with no block heaters.
What works for me is to make absolutely sure all glow plugs are working perfectly, engine is tuned perfectly, valves etc, battery is the highest capacity I can fit under the hood and when it's really cold I keep it in the house until I need to start the car. Synthetic oil has made a huge difference in cold starting as well. When I am away from home I just leave the car running, sometimes for days at a time but that's when it's well below zero. I have run my 500,000 mile 300SD at -58 below zero, with almost -90 below zero wind chills, the secret to starting it when it's that cold is to start a fire under the oil pan. In my garage I have a pit for oil changes etc, and I have a wood stove down in the pit so when I want to go somewhere I go out with an armload of kindling or sticks and start a really hot fire in the stove, which is directly under the car when it's parked in the garage, in about 20 minutes I can run the defroster without even starting the car and of course, with the engine plenty warm it starts just like a summer day. For when I am not parked in the garage I have one of those propane weed burner torches that I keep handy, light this and carefully place under the engine so it doesn't melt any electrical or rubber parts, in about 10 minutes both the oil and the engine are warm enough to start perfectly, even at -20 below zero and an added benefit is the transmission gets a bit of heat too. I have used gasoline in the diesel mix to keep the fuel from jelling but I prefer mixing kerosine. Usually I just run #1 fuel with an additive for lubricating. |
#11
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Quote:
One way you can check for gelled fuel is to use the primer pump. If fuel is pushing through the system for a minute or so of pumping then fuel gelling is not the issue. PS- I really enjoyed reading your stories about getting them started with no block heater in frigid temps.
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2009 ML320 Bluetec 1985 300CD 1981 300TD Past Mercedes 1979 300TD 1982 300TD 2000 E320 4Matic Wagon 1998 E430 1984 300SD 1980 300SD |
#12
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While I doubt 'gelling' per se is his main problem....
I do not think that 20 percent gasoline mixed with his diesel will do any harm since , as Sbean mentioned, it is stated in the owners manuals of these cars as helpful for cold weather. A lot of things go into the engine starting... and with cold weather the combo of lots of things not being at their original specs can cause the need to help an engine with other changes in the overall picture.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#13
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PowerService = Cetane boost = easier starting/smoother running plus gel protection, though I agree not his problem. That and basic maintenance will probably solve most of the problems. Pouring boiling water on the block is a new one to me - sounds like it would work but I would hate to pour it then have it freeze back up since its so cold!
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#14
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Pouring boiling water on cold cast iron is a TERRIBLE IDEA...
DO NOT DO THAT !!!!! not just the block ... but even less hot/cold shock could damage the injection pump... just forget this idea and warm the water inside the block...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#15
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I've read where some people will remove the motor oil through the dipstick tube and preheat it in the house before they need to start the engine. Just don't forget to put the oil back in the crankcase.
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png |
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