The guy there said they stopped making/using stainless hoses because they had failure problems. These are probably oil hoses then, as they have a pretty large interior diameter. They are 3/4" hose/fittings. Huge! And 750psi is about 3-4x the pressure that will ever go through them.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Yes it does.

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'84 300D
'97 Jeep XJ lots of mods
'01 Subaru Forester

Which raises the question of...

What is the max PSI of the oil pressure in an OM617? 3 bar is about 45 PSI, but according to the FSM, the oil pump has a pressure relief valve at 7 bar (~105 PSI). But this post seems to be saying that that number could be anywhere from 180 to 250psi! I'd think a 250 PSI hose with a proper inner diameter would be sufficiently derated if the most it would see is 105 PSI.

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)

Guys, this is still a solution in search of a problem.

How did you determine that the Meyle lines are OEM?

the point to my OP is really that EVEN IF the lines only lasted 6 years, 9 years, whatever compared to 27, the absolute simplicity of replacing them makes it a far better job.

And Im not talking about re-routing them, resale, or anything else. And frankly, if I was buying a car with odd lines on it, Id ask the PO. If they knew about them, no biggie, if they didnt, I may walk anyway.

So, again, simplicity. 9 year replacement with a $50 part and a 15 minute job sure seems better to me than 27 year replacement with a $100 part and a 6-hour job (for garage DIY). Plus, the replaceable hoses may just give more business to local businesses fabricating stuff (not that I do not want to give business to fastlane, it is just that I give a LOT of business to fastlane ).

So, if this is a viable option, that makes the job the first time and any subsequent time MUCH easier, I see it as a win, provided that the downsides are understood - one of those downsides is retired by KNOWING absolutely the compatibility with diesel oil.

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Maybe it is not OEM, where the term can be confusing. Can you buy the exact same quality oil cooler lines that came with the car from a Mercedes dealer today? Or have they run out and sourced out the manufacturing and are being made to a lower quality? Are the the lines from Fastlane the same ones the dealer sells?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I can't talk to quality, but I ordered an OEM lower oil cooler hose, but returned it contemplating a local solution (read pawoSD style solution). But I got to examine the part and it appeared identical to the OEM MB Star hoses currently on the vehicle - same exact metal ends and crimps.

No matter who makes it, I'm a bit leery of any hose since the aftermarket (don't remember the manufacturer) hose I installed failed about two weeks in. That's why I ordered the OEM hose. And its also why I think the solution I've chosen is equal or superior to the original.

The failure points are not in the threaded connections, but in the crimps where the rubber interfaces to the metal. Since I expect the crimps on the locally manufactured hoses to be superior to a mass produced item, The failure points then become the welds where the new fittings are installed. But there's no real stresses on these points. So I think I'll end up with the best solution for my vehicle. I could replace the hoses in ten years, and still come out money and time ahead of the OEM solution.

If I was buying a car and saw this installed, I would probably replace the hoses themselves with a new pair just to be on the safe side as long as the metal parts weren't leaking or otherwise suspect. To go back to the OEM hoses would be the "correct" thing to do, but would not necessarily be the "best" thing to do.

Buyer beware.

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)

I believe you have your terminology confused.

If you buy the part from the dealer. or it's original factory hose, it's an "OE" part.

If you buy the part in the aftermarket from the same supplier that makes the part for M/B, it's an "OEM" part.

However, if you did source the "OEM" part, I'd be curious as to who the manufacturer is.

The last ones I bought appeared to be the same as original.

Brian, so the OE hose is the same as the OEM hose. The only difference is who the supplier sold the hose to and who the end user buy it from?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

How much was it?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I'm doing a set with AN braided stainless lines. Stainless racing hose ...I think it said 1000 psi rated. I've mig welded the ends on, have pressure tested them and painted them but have not installed them yet. I think they came out good.

I'm doing all of this work myself and I don't know if I would trust someone else doing this or a hydraulic line setup to my car. A bad solder/braze/weld job would be my concern. Pawo's set look well done to me and I suspect they will hold up nicely,but somewhere else it may be hard to find a competent shop to do the same level of work.

I like doing my own thing, but If I already had a set of new lines I think I would just use them.

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Diesel-guy

Never heard that distinction. Thanks!

It was OE. Listed in the parts store as "Genuine". I didn't examine it closely enough to see if there was another manufacturer's mark on it. I just recall that the connections looked just like the ones on the car.

I have a friend with a metal fab shop. Used to build go-kart frames until an overseas country that shall not be named started building them at slave wages. And I'd trust his work as if it were my own if I knew how to weld...

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)

There is no assurance that the OEM hose is identical to the OE hose. That would be for the purchaser to discern, if he can.

The only distinction of "OEM" is that this is the supplier that manufactures the component for M/B............it might be identical to the OE part.........might not.