Floor rot holes seats sinking 300D - help - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

natasjlp · #1 12-15-2009, 05:24 PM

It started with the front passenger seat, started sinking down in the rear door side. Now the Drivers seat is sinking through the floor as well. not sure if it is rot, rust or both. Has anyone had this happen? I am trying to think of some sort of easy fix like sliding some sheet metal underneathe - the problem is the floor is ripping right where it meets the bottom part of the door, so it doesn't seem to have anywhere to secure the metal.

trying to attach some pics

sorry for the bad spelling - threw is quicker to write in photoshop than through

snookwhaler · #2 12-15-2009, 05:29 PM

First you need to remove the carpets to see how bad it really is. If the seats are falling out of the car.... It is pretty bad.

Then you need to find out where the water is coming from (if you are going to keep the car).

Anything like this can be fixed. The question is how much do you want to spend and is it really worth it to you?

natasjlp · #3 12-15-2009, 05:35 PM

gotcha - - - > I will take up the rugs - don't want to spend too much time or $ been so many little things wrond with it - want to move on - thinking about another one just like but don't want to put in as much work as I did with this one. it's a 1983 300D with over 400K miles (odometer stopped at 319K). Definitley love the car (my 1st mercedes and diesel). but it was from NH so a lot of salt rot and rust - - - >

I'll take up rugs and post some pics when I get a chance - thanks!

natasjlp · #4 12-15-2009, 05:37 PM

also yes, the seats are visibly sinking, when you sit in them you lean towards the doors. you can see the seats from underneath the car - it is pretty bad...

JHZR2 · #5 12-15-2009, 05:38 PM

Be careful... A fix like this, even a patchwork fix will be tough, as to get the right security, youll need to use some heavy gauge stuff.

The best way to fix is to fix the water ingress and then weld in the right steel, in the right places, formed to the right shape. That will be tough.

My 85 had some rust that did not effect the seat, and I used a combination of galvanized straps, sheetmetal, POR patch and seam sealer, rivets, anti-rust paint, and together it made a very solid repair. However, even with the structural support of the galvanized straps (12 and 16 ga, IIRC), and formed metal, all riveted together, it took a LOT of work and effort. And again, mine was for a hole in the floorboard (you can find all my pics posted up on here), not a spot holding something like a seat. That is a whole different ballgame...

rrgrassi · #6 12-15-2009, 05:38 PM

If you do not want to spend the bucks, then look for a solid southern car and part your current rusty one.

snookwhaler · #7 12-15-2009, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

If you do not want to spend the bucks, then look for a solid southern car and part your current rusty one.

This would be my plan.

Keep yours as a "parts car" until you have the new one for a while.

natasjlp · #8 12-15-2009, 06:06 PM

do you think part it or just sell it as a whole? is it that big of a difference for me? I was thinking of selling it at around $600 with some TLC needed. it has an inspection sticker good until Feb 2010 (not far away but...)

If someone really wanted to fix it up they probably could - I just don't have the time or a garage for winter repairs. This is my last ditch effort to get it working until I get my next car.

I have the option to get a Saturn for really cheap (from a friend) and will be sad I won't be part of the diesel mercedes club any more

Was thinking of the southern option - fly down and drive it up - nice excuse for a winter vaca as well

if anyone sees a deal - let me know

until then looks like I might be in the Saturn club for awhile... do they even have a club? lol

JEBalles · #9 12-15-2009, 06:07 PM

That's even worse than mine. It'd be a LOT of time and/or money to fix it. If you don't want to spend either of those, get another one. Get a southern one and keep tabs on the rust if you live up north. Even cheaper is to find a southern one with a bad drivetrain and swap yours in, but a 400,000, that's probably not worth it.

daw_two · #10 12-15-2009, 08:13 PM

did someone say find a nice southern car?

Here's a rust free example:

I just bought this car last week, but it definitely could be "taken" from me. Here's the thread on the car:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=267127

If you don't like this color, just let me know what color you want and give me a couple of months. I find 300D w123s for sale all the time....

Hatterasguy · #11 12-15-2009, 08:27 PM

Considering the mileage and rust I would say its time to junk it and look for a better example.

dieseldan44 · #12 12-15-2009, 08:43 PM

Ive done this repair on my 85 since it low miles and had other redeeming qualities and I wanted to learn to weld.

Its a huge pain to do right. Huge. Days and days of welding in a new floor pan, and re-lining up the seat mount points isnt easy either.

Go for a southern car...

daw_two · #13 12-15-2009, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

Go for a southern car...

I keep saying this. If someone really wanted a southern 300D, all they have to do is give me a budget. I know I could find 3 for them to choose from.

DeliveryValve · #14 12-15-2009, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daw_two

I keep saying this. If someone really wanted a southern 300D, all they have to do is give me a budget. I know I could find 3 for them to choose from.

IMHO if your going to get a rust free example southern car and take it up north, then I would get a w123 that was built post 1981. They have better corrosion protection than the earlier vehicles.

.

daw_two · #15 12-15-2009, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

IMHO if your going to get a rust free example southern car and take it up north, then I would get a w123 that was built post 1981. They have better corrosion protection than the earlier vehicles.

.

Well, I saw a 1984 on Sunday of last week.....I posted it on Craigslist. The seller wanted $1K for it --- had about 157K miles on it.....original paint in good condition, no rust.....etc....

Yes, it takes some $$$ to get the car transported up to the NE..........and yes, it can be painful to fly to Memphis and drive the car home.......but all things considered......it's less pain than floor rot and the never ending rust battle you guys fight.