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  #1  
Old 01-01-2010, 09:55 PM
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oil filter change

Hi my ride is an 88 6cyl 300d.

The oil filter has a drain pipe that goes through the centre.

On the bottom of it there is a groove that looks like it should have an o ring does any one know about this.

Help appreciated

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1987 /88 300D 178K & Very tidy
WVO RUG Diesel Blend OEM fuel heater thermostat by passed
1991 Nissan Patrol TD42
350k & very rough
WVO RUG Blend return line to cav 296 filter

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  #2  
Old 01-01-2010, 10:50 PM
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Your '87 300 D Turbo (W124, OM603) is indeed supposed to have an o-ring in the groove at the end of the pipe that goes through the oil filter lid. The oil will not flow properly without this o-ring. Some oil filter kits come with a new o-ring. Otherwise, you can get it through Phil at FastLane (click "Buy Parts" at the top of this screen.

Jeremy
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Old 01-01-2010, 10:58 PM
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Thanks Jeremy, i thought it was odd. I have been using ryco filters they come with an o ring for the top end of the tube but not the bottom.

I reckon on hot start not having the one at the bottom means the pump will have to fill the housing before oil gets around the donk.

Not good so i will chase one down now, lucky after some 15,000 kms it has not caused noticeable damage. Prior to my servicing her she always went to a "benz specialist" does not say much for them.

Sadly my ride is not turbo, i am keeping an eye out for a turbo inlet manifold and may supercharge her.

I appreciate your response and help.

PS Tried both of the links at top of page but they dont come up, will chase o ring local on monday.
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Steve

1987 /88 300D 178K & Very tidy
WVO RUG Diesel Blend OEM fuel heater thermostat by passed
1991 Nissan Patrol TD42
350k & very rough
WVO RUG Blend return line to cav 296 filter

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  #4  
Old 01-01-2010, 11:27 PM
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you should be able to find a suitable oring at a parts house. the sizr is poste dhere in many threads.
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  #5  
Old 01-02-2010, 12:07 AM
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Ah, I missed your location. The USA got only the turbo version of thge 603 engine but your NA engine should have the same oil filter. As mobetta writes, you should be able to take the center rod to an auto parts house and find an o-ring to fit it.

You cannot "upgrade" your engine to turbo without completely rebuilding it -- the pistons have special oil cooling channels and there are oil squirters built into the block to send oil into the channels. Without the extra cooling, the pistons will fry. The turbo engine also has sodium-cooled exhaust valves; I don't know if the normally-aspirated engine has those. In any case, it will take a lot more than just an intake manifold. It would be better to find a turbo engine and install it rather than try to modify your engine.
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #6  
Old 01-02-2010, 12:15 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by 88300D View Post
Hi my ride is an 88 6cyl 300d.

The oil filter has a drain pipe that goes through the centre.

On the bottom of it there is a groove that looks like it should have an o ring does any one know about this.

Help appreciated
The tube should have two O-rings on it.
MB# 015 997 94 48




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  #7  
Old 01-02-2010, 01:07 AM
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O-ring Size 6x10x2mm
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  #8  
Old 01-02-2010, 02:15 AM
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You have all been a great help. I have managed to hustle some o rings today and they are fitted, she holds some pressure after shut down now so all must be well.

Its a bit of a bumber i cant force induction on my donk with out major mods.

I guess this is the same for turbo and super charge.

I would not have much hope of finding a turbo donk here in Oz as i have never seen one. I would guess anyone that has one would be keeping it going.

I think i may consider LPG fumigation.

She is a real nice ride but as you would all know it is a slug, assuming they are slower than snails LOL.

I have chatted with an LPG guy and want to try modify the kit so it fumigates until the donk reaches temp and when at temp only fumigates on full throttle. Not much point on putting LPG in constantly as the WVO is very cheap compared to the price of LPG.

I hope by doing this she will combustion the WVO better when cold and give a little more power when i stick the boot in.

Next week i am pulling the injector pump out and rebuilding it, new nozzels on the injector and set them to pop 5bar higher. I will advance the pump timing a little also.

I have heard of some people saying Elsbert do injector nozzles that have a better spray pattern for WVO but Elsbert have declined to answer if they do this.

I am also going to replace the glow plugs, does any one know if the chrome ones are better?

I am also curious does any one know if my ride would have originally had an emergency tool kit?
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Peace and Blessings to you and yours

Steve

1987 /88 300D 178K & Very tidy
WVO RUG Diesel Blend OEM fuel heater thermostat by passed
1991 Nissan Patrol TD42
350k & very rough
WVO RUG Blend return line to cav 296 filter

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  #9  
Old 01-02-2010, 03:39 AM
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Steve,
I dont think the turbo ever came to Aust as with RH drive, the turbo is too close to the steering box.
There are aftermarket kits about down here but as others have said, its not a good idea. I have seen a couple of w123 300d turbo's (aftermarket) in NSW. I think they would have had heat soak probs on the power steering in that heat back in December.

Where are you getting your WVO from?
How long have you been using it?

Around 1990, there was a guy going around to the machinery field days trying to sell a skid mounted plant that you could use canola or sunflower seed as a raw material. The idea was for farmers to grow the seed & then make their own fuel.
He had a diesel Peugeot that he was running on the stuff, it died after about 80k and the plants were not seen again. I saw that a finalist on the New Inventors recently has put together a similar thing for sale in third world countries to villages to grow their own oilseed to make fuel for their town diesel generators. It will be interested to see how long they last.
We have had a lot of problems here. Australian Petroleum Supplies was making Bio at their Echuca-Moama Refinery. After 2 of the large transport co's (1 based over your way & well known) had problems with it, they have stopped. The outcome of the brawl over that has not been decided. That may be why Elsbert dont want to say much.
Most of the waste oil (veg & mineral) in Victoria is collected by a waste oil recycler and put through a small refinery (mainly primary fractionation & Alkilation) near Melbourne. The EPA will not let them sell the 'diesel' he produces for on land use. His process appears to remove much of what can end up as varnish in the ring lands.

Riverland Oil Seeds produce a non food grade Canola type oil. It is a disaster in a diesel though, gums rings very quickly.
I have found any WVO that started life as Frytrol solidifies too easy and is very gummy. I have had more luck with cotton seed oil based WVO. None of these are good enough for us to use in our earth moving equipment. Its one thing to wreak a motor in a $10k car, its another thing to put at risk a $500k scraper or dozer.
In the summer, I have used a blend of 75% filtered waste ATF. I can only get about 60 ltrs a week from a transmission re-builder & so its not worth the effort. It works well.
Best Regards,
Andrew


PS I am an Engineering grad from Adelaide Uni (1977), even worked at Stanvac refinery for a while, my brother, IT & Maths from Flinders, about 10years later.
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #10  
Old 01-02-2010, 05:56 AM
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Hi layback,
I have been running WVO for about two years, near 40,000 kms in my patrol and about one and a half years in my Merc near 20,000 kms.

Your post has me shaking a little.
Polymerisation has always been my concern, you only need to leave WVO out in the sun to see what can come of it.

I collect WVO where ever i can, being in regional SA i am lucky not to compete with oil recyclers. They do come for the major food chains.

I am well connected in my town and do lots of free work for orgs community groups and charities so all of these people leap to help me. TBTG

The three local BIO makers have also helped me out when i was running low. Two have given up one having some near miss experience in making the stuff so at the moment collection is much easier and i have abandoned sources that wont use 20lt containers. I am not in a position to collect 44s and pumping from them can be messy.

I do have to compete with Bio makers some travel 300kms or more to get it.

The oil i get is mostly canola or cotton seed non solidifying.

I first purchased my Merc as family car to run WVO. When it arrived i was shocked as to how nice it was and lost my nerve for WVO, so i got my patrol, she has a rotary pump i believe not to be as good as the inline like the Merc.

The patrol is a real bomb, has a leaky injector pump. My mate a diesel mechanic told me the pump will have to be fixed. He told me when they start leaking they get bad fast. There is no change so far.

My merc had a leaky pump when i got it, the seller told me it had been rebuilt before i agreed to buy it. Had i known it had a leaky pump i would not have bought it. It has progressively gotten worse so i need to fix it.

After a while i got confident from the patrol (my sacrificial anode) and started putting it my merc.

The WVO in the merc slowed the leaky pump in the early days but is now too bad.

It leaks from under where one of the injector lines bolts up so i guess if they did rebuild it they nicked an o ring in re assembly.

I have considered waste ATF i can get lots with very little use. I was tempted as the viscosity is lower than WVO but have been told it contains fire retardants so considered it not best for combustion.

My first blend was 60% WVO 20% WMO 20% low octane ULP. Better kms pl than diesel.
It was great but i had some trouble pre filtering and it was such a head ache i abandoned it.

Last summer i ran 80% WVO 20% ULP and winter 70% WVO 20% ULP 10% diesel.

Long trips on real hot days i had some vapour lock issues so this summer i am trying 85% WVO 10% diesel 5% ULP.

In the early days i would add injector cleaner and some white spirit but have abandoned it as a waste of money. Though i cant measure its benefit.

Every oil change on both rides i send a sample to cav power mostly to ensure no hydrogenation or what ever its called.

Oh dont know if this helps you but my source of ATF is from a hire company it may be worth you chasing this avenue in your hood.
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Peace and Blessings to you and yours

Steve

1987 /88 300D 178K & Very tidy
WVO RUG Diesel Blend OEM fuel heater thermostat by passed
1991 Nissan Patrol TD42
350k & very rough
WVO RUG Blend return line to cav 296 filter

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  #11  
Old 01-02-2010, 09:17 AM
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Steve,
I dont know where you get your oil filters from. I just got 4 german bosch ones from a guy in sydney, he is very competitive on oil filters, not so good on air filters. I will PM you his details if you want.
We never get anything from the MB dealer. Frank Wan in Adelaide is the pick of them over your way.
You know that Repco are the bosch agents in Aust, They are my point of last resort for bosch stuff. The chrome GP's are better.
At a pinch you could get bits from a musso dealer, they use a Korean copy of the merc motors. Many engine parts are interchangeable.

There was a 300D that sounds like yours in the Riverland for sale about 2 years ago. We looked at it at the time as my brother was after another car. He didnt get it, instead he got a very low km c280, ex South African consular car. Every option possible, goes like #*^% !!
That leak on your IP is most likely O rings. Some one wasnt careful enough when they put it back together. You realize that if the fuel leaks onto the engine mount it will destroy it reasonably quick.
If you are more in the north of SA, you will have less of a problem with WVO. It sounds like you are being selective with what you use, that helps,I am not sure about canola though. I mentioned before about the canola we have tried. It could be the residue from the refining process that is done by the processor. The WVO should ideally be heated to about 70c before it gets to the injectors. The biggest problems occur with short drives, nothing gets hot enough & it doesnt burn properly.That appears to start the varnish problem, once started it appears to just grow on itself. Regular 120km/hr runs for an hour or so helps I think. We have a heap of WVO here that I have collected at times. I have used it a bit for fueling recycle pumps on irrigation. We use it in the conara in the winter when I am too slack to cut fire wood. It causes tar deposits in the chimney just like what I have seen on pistons. I havent tried ULP blends with WVO. I have run black diesel though (50/50 diesel & filtered sump oil) works well in a warm motor.
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #12  
Old 01-02-2010, 11:38 AM
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Have you Guys been heating your WVO on the Car to lower the Viscosity or have you been using it straight?

I have not read through this but this is the section for the Alternate Fuels:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=111689
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  #13  
Old 01-03-2010, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Have you Guys been heating your WVO on the Car to lower the Viscosity or have you been using it straight?

I have not read through this but this is the section for the Alternate Fuels:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=111689
Yes my Merc has the OEM heater with the thermostat by passed, i think it only works with the heaters on.

My Troll no but i did move the return to the inlet of the filter.

I dont believe there is benefit to combustion by pre heating but the lower viscosity should reduce the load on the pump.
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Peace and Blessings to you and yours

Steve

1987 /88 300D 178K & Very tidy
WVO RUG Diesel Blend OEM fuel heater thermostat by passed
1991 Nissan Patrol TD42
350k & very rough
WVO RUG Blend return line to cav 296 filter

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  #14  
Old 01-03-2010, 08:52 PM
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Steve,
Preheating is important to make the oil burn faster when it gets into the motor and so reduce the amount of varnish getting to the rings. I agree that one would expect the oil to be heated as it passes through the injectors, however a 10 c increase in temp doubles the speed and intensity of burning. Heating the injector lines is a worthwhile modification.Small changes can make a lot of difference especially when the motor is cold. This is supported by the trial work I have seen done. Replacing with a higher temp thermostat can also help. How much blow-by does your motor have?
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #15  
Old 01-03-2010, 09:17 PM
88300D's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Steve,
I dont know where you get your oil filters from. I just got 4 german bosch ones from a guy in sydney, he is very competitive on oil filters, not so good on air filters. I will PM you his details if you want.
yes i would like his details. I am currently using ryco filters and they cost around $20 each and dont come with the "stone filter" pre filter they cost me about $8 each, i have considered removing it permanent. I fitted one to my Troll for a while but found i was just spending more without advantage. On my Troll i converted the OEM filter to a CAV 296 this costs around $5 compared to its OEM @ $35. They are not the best for sealing but if i have made a bad batch of fuel they are a real saving. When i was using WMO and stuffed up i did a 600km trip and used about 7 OEM filters, ouch it was an expensive trip. I have considered running two CAV filters in parallel to reduce filter differential pressure.

Quote:
We never get anything from the MB dealer. Frank Wan in Adelaide is the pick of them over your way.
I am keen to have good contact for the Merc in Adelaide i am only 400kms away so trip to Adelaide is ok. I am considering taking my merc to BEA for a tranny service. I know they will charge a bomb but i guess they would do it right. After that i will use my sucker bottle and do regular ATF changes and burn it.

Quote:
You know that Repco are the bosch agents in Aust, They are my point of last resort for bosch stuff. The chrome GP's are better.
The guys at repco here have treated me ok and give me a bit of a price break but like you they too are my last resort.
Quote:
At a pinch you could get bits from a musso dealer, they use a Korean copy of the merc motors. Many engine parts are interchangeable.
Yes the ryco filters i use are not listed for my car but are for a musso 5cyl

Quote:
There was a 300D that sounds like yours in the Riverland for sale about 2 years ago.
I got this one from a guy in NSW off of ebay, i spent around 9k Incl frieght and did not even see the car, the seller helped me by arranging a freighter to pick it up. The car had some undisclosed issues but over all was in reasonable shape. The seller was very helpful and accommodating. I knew i was paying way too much but they are not real common and this one was probably the best i would find.

Quote:
That leak on your IP is most likely O rings. Some one wasnt careful enough when they put it back together. You realize that if the fuel leaks onto the engine mount it will destroy it reasonably quick.
I will go for a full IP rebuild any way then i should know it is done right. Thanks for the mount tip i checked it out and it looks ok but will maybe replace it any way, it may be easier to do with the IP out. Crap i noticed another issue my belt tensioner is not running true so will hahe to fix it too.

Quote:
If you are more in the north of SA, you will have less of a problem with WVO. It sounds like you are being selective with what you use, that helps,I am not sure about canola though. I mentioned before about the canola we have tried. It could be the residue from the refining process that is done by the processor. The WVO should ideally be heated to about 70c before it gets to the injectors. The biggest problems occur with short drives, nothing gets hot enough & it doesnt burn properly.That appears to start the varnish problem, once started it appears to just grow on itself. Regular 120km/hr runs for an hour or so helps I think.
Yes i am lucky to live north and we are a hot climate. My poor merc does a lot of short runs. I dont believe it is possible to heat the oil to benefit the injectors. the cold donk will just take the heat away. Grab a porta power set it to the pop pressure and using a non contact thermometer. Check the temp with WVO heated and not heated. The injector has too much mass to benefit from heated oil. The combustion will heat the injector long before the hot fuel does. Heating is good for IPs and filter flow.
Quote:
It causes tar deposits in the chimney just like what I have seen on pistons.
I agree combustion in a donk is different but triglyceride are a huge potential prob to me. I think LPG fumigation would have the best potential to help this. Some advocate water injection, i am keen to try this.
Quote:
I havent tried ULP blends with WVO. I have run black diesel though (50/50 diesel & filtered sump oil) works well in a warm motor.
I went ULP because it is the least viscous fuel to add and the lowers cost @ the servo also car manufacture recommend this practice with diesel in cold cliamates. Sump oil is a great fuel but i have found it to expensive to filter. Long settling is the best way to clean all used oils.

I have no engineering degree so if you eva think i am a mad man with my logic pls tell me. I appriciate what you have shared with me. This burning WVO can be a lonely business.

G-d bless you and yours

__________________

Peace and Blessings to you and yours

Steve

1987 /88 300D 178K & Very tidy
WVO RUG Diesel Blend OEM fuel heater thermostat by passed
1991 Nissan Patrol TD42
350k & very rough
WVO RUG Blend return line to cav 296 filter

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