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  #16  
Old 01-09-2010, 10:10 AM
Yak Yak is offline
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A rebuild isn't difficult, but can be intimidating. Having shop air helps to pop the pistons out, but isn't always required. Make sure you can quickly source a re-build kit, though, before you get too far into it.

x3 (or 4 or 5) on trying the get the piston aligned with the bore and away from the funny angle. And loosen the bleed screw...and check the level in the reservoir to make sure it doesn't overflow when the piston moves back in.

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  #17  
Old 01-09-2010, 05:23 PM
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Wow ... I bought a giant C-clamp from Harbor Freight this morning and it made a HUGE difference. I put it on with the old pad, cracked the bleeder and it went retracted right in for me ... it took some force to get moving but went in easy after that. Thanks guys. I didn't think about the importance of even force across the piston. I'm so excited ... something went right!


Now ... all I have to do (on that wheel) is put the dust cap back on the hub. It will not go on. I'm going to try to engineer my way through that before starting a whole post about putting a dust cap on.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #18  
Old 01-09-2010, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RML View Post
Bottom line is, I know that I will be more careful and meticulous than most people in a big shop who are probably under pressure to get to the next job.
I feel the same way. I completely understand working within your limitations, but changing brake pads is something that I think most everyone can do. Certainly if a person can change their own oil I'd say they're sufficiently competent to change/bleed brakes.

Of course I was being facetious with my comments about messing around, I understand that for some people brakes will always be by the book and any deviation from factory spec or how the "professionals" do it will not be tolerated. I don't the least bit advocate that shadetrees undertake projects that are outside the scope of their abilities and simultaneously endanger themselves and the driving public.

I have to qualify what I'm saying here- there are loads of good auto mechanics FAR more skilled & knowledgeable than I am and without their daily help we'd all be completely screwed. Many of them chose their profession out of love for machines and have considerable intellects - These are not the people I'm talking about.

There's a reason your average wrench at a garage is an average wrench at a garage and not working for JPL or NASA. It ain't freakin' rocket science! If you can be focused and methodical, you can tackle lots of jobs that deal with parts you trust your life to, and probably do as adequate a job as the average shop will.
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2010, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Now ... all I have to do (on that wheel) is put the dust cap back on the hub. It will not go on. I'm going to try to engineer my way through that before starting a whole post about putting a dust cap on.
Update: I went to Home Depot and picked out a 2" PVC pipe fitting that fits right over the lip of the dust cap, and it beat it with a rubber mallet ... it went in. So ... I finished a whole wheel!

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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