Hello, I replaced injector (#5) and now the car will not start. I have killed the battery four times now. I had someone crank the motor while opening the lines to bleed out any air that may have got into the system. I have primed the hand pump several million times now. The last time I cracked open #1 and then pumped the hand primer lots... and no fuel comes out. What is going on.?

I have a big mess in the garage now. Please help. what am I doing wrong?

I have checked for air leaks and am thinking that the injection pump must not be getting any fuel to it for some reason even when I use the hand pump?

Could it be the spring bypass is weak?

Saves the Day!
99.999% probability

I Believe your old one's displaying the "Negative Wind" syndrome.

Example for the '80:

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

You're hand pump won't pump fuel out the injector lines. All it does is fill the IP.

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You only slightly crack loose one injector at a time.

The primer pump fills the injection pump body.
The injection pump fills the hard line to the injector, roughly 0.003 CC per revolution...

It will not hurt to check the bypass spring, it is generally collapsed to 16-20 MM, and should be 27 MM.
FYI:
I stretch the spring to 30 MM and install, generally within an hour it will collapse to 26-28 MM.



Have a great day.

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just came back in to chk. responses...in the meantime I took that spring out and stretched it. I could not find my calipers in the mess so I just used my 27 mm socket. the spring was down to about an inch long so I did have to stretch it back quite abit. I have blisters from pumping the hand pump. I am not going to do that any more. I would get my son to crank it over but he is not strong enough... too little.

I hate this car. I should have taken the offer of a thousand bucks and let someone else get blisters but the car is worth at least twice that amount when it is running. now I just want to blow it to smitherines.

I am standing in a bag of cat litter and diesel all over the floor...battery charger hooked up.... the cat litter may as well be #@@#'in fertilizer.

No wonder no fuel can make it through the lines it gets squirted out the pump for the most part.

The one good thing that has come of this is that I see no more air bubbles in the small bleed off lines between the injectors except the one between 4-5 injector?

WHen I cracked the bypass spring a bunch of air bubbles went through that line that comes from the banjo on the back -side of the pump to the metal fuel filter junction block thing. AFTER i stretched the spring and put it back together I pumped those bubbles out.
just waiting on the battery charger for another try at it.

This is a two person job to get the air out is'nt it? one to crank motor and another to crack and tighten lines? I can't imagine how a person could do this by themselves. anyone have a method?

I know I need a new hand pump...have to order... but that does'nt help right now.

On Amazon

Probably @ Harbor Freight Too.

('Not really necessary,thought...as Hunter said crack one line CapNut at a time
and as soon as you see Fuel at that Injector,tighten the Capnut and move on to the next.)

HOWEVAH, Right Now ,Whenever the engine is turned over...the Leaking Hand Pump allows air to be sucked into the Fuel system...

'Get the new hand Pump on or you're just "Rolling Water Uphill with a Sieve".

(HINT: If you can get the Stern up higher than the Bow ,it'll help.)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

That remote starter is a great idea, Thank you very much for the advice.

SO.. how would I use that...just turn the key on and fire away with the remote switch or would it work directly off the starter without the key on?

If that hand pump is screwed in tight will it still leak air? maybe I could unscrew the pump... find something with proper threads and just plug the hole for now until a new pump arrives?

Is there another possible cause of the fuel not coming through the lines of the injector? I was just outside cranking with the #1 injector line cracked. I cannot get even a drop of fuel to come through while cranking??? I have been at this off and on for three days now. what would happen if I just took the line right off the injector? from what I have read there is alot of pressure that should be going through there which probably makes that are very unsafe thing to do. I am pretty sure there is fuel up to the pump.. so just wondering what is the cause of the pump not providing fuel?

Another point I should mention is that the car does not shut off with the key...I have to go under the hood and pull the stop lever.

I wonder if it is now stuck in the stop position? I checked the linkage and that seems to work properly. Can I take the pod off the back of the injection pump where the vacuum connects to turn it off or is that just a waste of time? can I wreck anything doing this? I don't like messing too much with that pump as I don't know much about them.

You're gonna NEED the Hand Pump [New]to PRIME fuel to the IP.
Plus, why screw around trying to "Reinvent the Wheel"? your Time and
sanity are worth a lot!
(Hey,it's less than $20.00)

If you follow the Positive Cable(s) from the Battery:
One will go to the Starter,Leave that one alone.
The other will go to a Connection Block (Probably on the RH Wheelhouse)
The Remote Starter Switch's Alligator Clips go on Two different Terminals
of the connection Block.['Problem is on your chassis I don't know which ones,
AND you don't Wanna Guess on this!]
And yes once the remote Switch is hooked up properly,turn the Ignition switch
to the Run position(You might get "Lucky" and experience a Start,Unexpectedly)
If so,turn ignition OFF[EDIT: FOR YOU this means depressing the "STOP" lever,and then turn off the Key.] and tighten all CapNuts.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

"I don't like messing too much with that pump as I don't know much about them."

Take your own Advice , Don't.

The IP is Full of AIR!
('Cause the LEAKING Hand Primer Pump is allowing AIR INTO the system!)
RePlace the LEAKING hand Primer Pump on Your IP with a New One.

Once you've overcome this Hurdle (2 on a scale of 1-10)
You can work on Diagnosing your IP Vacuum ShutOff valve problem
(If ,in fact it's the Shut Off,you might have a Vacuum leak or a Bad Vacuum
portion of the Ignition switch.)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

I've seen a couple SD with a no start issue that was related to the shut off valve. It was still partially activated after the car was off for several minutes. If I pushed the STOP lever to shut the car down it would start right up. Try unplugging you shut off valve and make sure the linkages aren't stuck in the STOP position.

Also when it the last time you changed the fuel filters. If they are really clogged you aren't going to get any fuel through.

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I agree with Bio !!! New filters & new primer pump needed. Until then you are wasting your time. Go inside & put your feet up until then! Stay warm! I hope you have plenty of fuel in the tank (more than 1/2) & the car is on flat ground & facing down hill. Its probably that cold there that a car with everything right would have trouble starting. Think of us down here in Australia, its going to be 108F in a few hours here. No trouble starting, as long as the aircon continues blowing cold!!

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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
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Hello, thanks again for your time...it is a 1979 300D no turbo. I think I found the block you are talking about on the fender,to access the engine starter switching..it has a black plastic cover on it and has two silver relays that plug in on the d.s fender, as well as a single brown wire with a small in-fuse. If I unplug the silver relays then the car won't start so that must be it. I tried to unplug those to disable the glow plugs while I found out why the no fuel issue so as to be less of a drain on the starter and battery. It did not work to disable the glow plugs and I still don't know where that unit is but traced the wires to run one end in through the firewall and the other end to the glow plugs themselves? I presume the relays for the glow plugs are under the dash somewhere in this particular car?

This car has some strange thick wired ceramic looking glow plugs..it is unlike the pencil system in the newer Mercs. we have. I found the flat steel fuse on the firewall and unscrewed the wires from the fuse. but the glow plug light still comes on at the dash.??? I have not burned my fingers yet to find out if the wires are heating up. Maybe the car is not turning over fast enough once those thick elements heat up, they sure look like they drain alot off the battery. I have seen those get red hot sometimes.

The in-line fuse has color bands on the glass and looks like it is filled with sand? I thought fuses were clear glass so you can tell if they are burnt out or not....anyways .That block on the fender is alot easier to get access to than the starter wires. I could probably make my own switch with a home light switch and some alligator clamps. I supposed I could do this as long as I took it all apart once finished for safety sake. The atmosphere of the state of my garage right now could use an extra set of aligator clamps mixed in there... inspiration macguyver, or so it seems to be looking.

I guess it is fairly clear that I need an injection primer pump, is that right?

So I did not hear if the existing old primer pump seals up once the plunger is screwed in? If I need a new primer pump for the purpose of priming the injection pump then that is fine. I think it is doing the job of filling the inj. pump, however messy, it works as I pump. I can see fuel come out the hose with the arrow away from the spin on fuel filter block.

I think my problem lies in getting fuel from the inj. pump line (bottom cap nut ) to the actual injector cap nut fittings up top.(small steel winding line from inj. pump to injector).

I have noticed that the used injector I put in is finally sealed but everytime I go to crack that cap nut I see lots off air bubbles and pressure escapes. The rest of the injectors don't do that? but nothing comes out of them at all. Is this normal to have so much air come out of this line?

From a previous post (W.Hunter) I could be there forever moving fuel up that empty line (0.003 ml/rev. of engine) How much fuel does this line displace? I had to loosen the bottom cap nut at the inj. pump to move that line out of the way to remove/replace inj.# 5. all the fuel leaked out onto the floor.I am really regreting undoing the lower cap nut in this cold temp. My brand new battery does not like this.

mcdoe

The Terminal Block that can be used to jumper the Starter is not; not on the Non-turboed Cars.
Also on the Turbocharged US models only; with left hand drive that Wire Terminal Block is on passenger side Fender Well in front of the Battery; There is a plastic cover but there is no Relays near it.
See thumbnail for the Terminal Block that is only on the 300Ds with a Turbo.


The Old Style Hand Priming Pump with the shiny Aluminum body is supposed to seal when you push it all the way down and tighten it.
However, when it gets old enought that does not work.

If the other seals in the Hand Primer are leaking a lot when you pump it it could also be bad enough that when you pull the plunger up it is sucking some Air as well as Fuel in. So you would be trying to prime your system with a mix of Air and Fuel.

On those older Filiment/Loop style Glow Plugs if one plug goes out they all stop working.

I have also read that when these Glow plugs are working the zig-zag resistance wires can get Red Hot. So you may be able to see them if you have the Hood open and it is dark; no need to burn your hands.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel