Help with leaks from the IP (OM603 300SDL) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

LUVMBDiesels · #1 01-09-2010, 03:43 PM

Leaky injection pump OM603
Background...

I was smelling Diesel. I had a leaky fuel hose that by replacing it I thought solved the problem. Well I was smelling fuel again so while the car was running I followed my nose and then I found that the IP is leaking from the top. There are leaks coming from the cyl 5-6 pair and it also looks like the 3 and 4 pair is leaking too. The fuel is not leaking from the injector lines, which are tight, but from the top of the pump itself.

How hard is it to remove what I am thinking are the plungers and replace the seals? How do you remove those funky serrated looking nuts?

Can this be done on the car? I would hate to have to remove the IP and then have to time the injectors.

Thanks!!

Joe

whunter · #2 01-09-2010, 04:05 PM

OM60_series IP delivery valve reseal
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=173991

Have a great day.

Brian Carlton · #3 01-09-2010, 04:10 PM

Be absolutely sure you understand the process thoroughly and do not "improvise" any of the procedures.

Any mistake during this process buys you a trip to the injection shop with the IP in tow.

ah-kay · #4 01-12-2010, 01:17 PM

I posted #26 in this link as there is a pdf file where I can refer to the picture. Any info on my questions would be appreciated.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=173991&page=2

Crazy_Nate · #5 01-12-2010, 02:30 PM

It's not bad. I did mine in a parking lot...

Just keep everything clean, assemble the parts exactly as they should be (pay attention to alignment), and make sure to have fully researched it ahead of time.

You'll need a special dealer / hazet splined socket and a couple other things including a 14mm open end wrench (or dealer crow's foot wrench for the injector nuts), torque wrench, socket extensions and joints, torx t30 socket, rags, new o-rings (and copper washers if you replace those), a pick or other similar instrument, and probably some nitrile gloves. Oh, and you'll need some patience and a strong battery to get the air out of the injector hard lines.

Same procedure as here: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM602InjPumpFuelLeak

Crazy_Nate · #6 01-12-2010, 02:34 PM

I also took some pictures of my IP after all the cleaning and with the collars removed:

More details (and what happens when a spring falls out when you reinstall one of the delivery valve assemblies!) here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=266084&page=3

Best of luck

daw_two · #7 01-12-2010, 02:38 PM

I just got finished with this project. I can't see the pics at work, but I think this post should get you started.

Best advice I can give you:
Get EVERYTHING clean down in there before you remove the injector lines.
Take lots of pics.
Make notes.
Add everything to this thread.
You will need to borrow (or buy) the special spline tool if you plan on doing the work yourself.
The screws that hold the brackets together between the fuel delivery valves is a TORX screw --- I bought a set of Torx "screwdrivers".

Good Luck. PM if you run into a jam.

Order the orings and crush washers from Phil\Roy and help support this forum.

Take pics.
Make notes.

ah-kay · #8 01-12-2010, 02:41 PM

As per the writeup - "Once the valve is ready to install, take the spring out of the valve, and place it by hand directly in the center of fuel delivery area on the IP. Place the valve slowly and directly over it, and screw it down."

I have all the special tools and following every write up to the letters. This is what I did. I placed the copper seal on top, put the spring in the middle and then screwed the stub pipe slowly by hand until tight. Would it center everything inside the IP ( the copper seal, spring and the small cylindrical shape valve carrier ) ?

I am just afraid that I may have crimped the copper washer unknowingly or offset the cylindrical block. Is it possible?

ixos · #9 01-12-2010, 07:18 PM

I just did this job this past weekend, myself. The hardest part about it was just getting down to the injector pump itself. I had to take the intake manifold off my OM602, but you may be able to get it done by just removing the injector lines. I also took the opportunity to replace the glow plugs while I was in there.

The process of replacing the o-rings and copper washers is pretty easy. There's not much to be scared of as long as you remember to remove the valve by hand, gently, after removing the collar. The innards of the valve are tapered to guide the spring to where it is supposed to go, and I assume that this will also seat the copper washer.

If you've got the time to do it, fixing this little leak is easy.

It feels nice to be able to park in the garage again.

I have both the T-30 torx bit and the Hazet socket if you're interested in buying the pair. I'm hoping I won't need them again.

daw_two · #10 01-12-2010, 09:04 PM

I carefully put the spring in the center and then eased the valve down.

babyjames · #11 01-13-2010, 12:37 AM

Just finished this about 5:00 today. Should have been done while I had the manifold off to do the head gasket! I used a 90* pick to hold the spring in the valve while I got it in place, then eased the end of the pick out of there.

My poor starter! You gotta' crank for what seems like WAY too long to bleed the valves/lines! I was startin' to wonder if I'd maybe, you know.... Nope!

Idles SO much more smoothly and quietly. Looks like maybe I don't need to have the injectors gone through! YAY!

Jay.

ah-kay · #12 01-13-2010, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babyjames

My poor starter! You gotta' crank for what seems like WAY too long to bleed the valves/lines! I was startin' to wonder if I'd maybe, you know.... Nope!

Done. Put everything together and I cranked and cranked before it started. I thought I messed up something. Took it out for a spin and it runs fine. While I was at the IP, I also changed out the bottom plate gasket as it was leaking oil. What a PITA job to remove the bottom plate with the IP in situ. Surprisingly, did not get a big mess as not a lot of oil drained out when I removed the plate.

Now NO diesel leaking from the top and NO oil leaking from the bottom. All things considered, it was a job well done.

Thank you guys.

LUVMBDiesels · #13 01-22-2010, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

As per the writeup - "Once the valve is ready to install, take the spring out of the valve, and place it by hand directly in the center of fuel delivery area on the IP. Place the valve slowly and directly over it, and screw it down."

I have all the special tools and following every write up to the letters. This is what I did. I placed the copper seal on top, put the spring in the middle and then screwed the stub pipe slowly by hand until tight. Would it center everything inside the IP ( the copper seal, spring and the small cylindrical shape valve carrier ) ?

I am just afraid that I may have crimped the copper washer unknowingly or offset the cylindrical block. Is it possible?

I did mine last night! Thanks to JohnHef for the use of his spline socket and his anti-aircraft searchlights

Here is a photo that shows the spring on the plunger ready for the valve for anybody who is confused about how to reassemble the valve into the pump.

The hardest thing was removing the injector lines and getting them out of the way without bending them.

I did the valves one at a time starting with number 6. All of them had o-rings that were so dried out that they were cracked and crumbled when I removed them. I had them all hand tight then I did the torque procedure. I used a 1/2 inch breaker bar to loosen the valves the swivel on the bars made it MUCH easier to maneuver than the bulky torque wrench. I tightened all six, loosened all six, tightened all six, etc.
It did take some cranking and mashing the pedal to the floor to get the air out of the lines and the car started. Rudolf now runs like a new car! He is much quieter with a diesel growl at idle, moves out better and best of all I do not smell diesel any longer!
I cannot wait to check my mpg. I wonder how much fuel I have been dumping on the ground these past few weeks.

Dieselfanatic · #14 12-12-2016, 06:03 PM

Hey everyone -
I just had this issue with my om602 Non-Turbo...
Only tool I had was the IP Valve special socket - no extra crush washers, or 15mm O-rings. I found some nitrile o-rings that are about the same sized, after I measured the thickness with some nice calipers I own. Since I was in a jam, I quickly replaced the rings, but reused the crush washers and tightened everything down to about the right torque. Everything works great, no leaks, no injector nailing.

Here's my question:
Did any of you just leave the valve collars off after reinstall? Unfortunately, the star-screws holding mine down were frozen, and I had to destroy the screws to get the collars off. Are these nozzles known for vibrating lose, or are the collars intended to keep the valves tight when loosening the fuel lines?
Thanks, all

Diesel911 · #15 12-12-2016, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dieselfanatic

Hey everyone -
I just had this issue with my om602 Non-Turbo...
Only tool I had was the IP Valve special socket - no extra crush washers, or 15mm O-rings. I found some nitrile o-rings that are about the same sized, after I measured the thickness with some nice calipers I own. Since I was in a jam, I quickly replaced the rings, but reused the crush washers and tightened everything down to about the right torque. Everything works great, no leaks, no injector nailing.

Here's my question:
Did any of you just leave the valve collars off after reinstall? Unfortunately, the star-screws holding mine down were frozen, and I had to destroy the screws to get the collars off. Are these nozzles known for vibrating lose, or are the collars intended to keep the valves tight when loosening the fuel lines?
Thanks, all

The lock plates are obviously there to keep the Delivery Valve Holders from rotating due to vibration. If they don't leak I would not worry about them.

Nitrile o-rings; I think the stock ones are Viton so you need to get back to use in a year or so and tell use how the O-rings are holding up.