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#1
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Alternative rear lifting/jacking points on W124
I know this has been discussed, including in my last thread on my collapsed jackpoint, but I wanted to collect opinions on proper jacking of the 124's rear. In my case, at the moment, I cannot use the driver's side jackpoint because of rust damage. I have done a search, and have heard a lot of people suggest jacking it up by the car by the diff, then putting stands under the subframe mounts ... but I also saw a couple of caveats that lifting by the diff should not be done on a 124. I know what's OK on a 123 is not always OK on a 124, so I wanted to be clear.
Bottom line: I can easily and safely jack up the front of this car, but for some reason, that particular rear jackpoint is a disaster. I need to do the driveshaft flex discs and center bearing, and at some point soon I need to do the diff bushings. Is it OK to lift the butt of this car by the diff or is that a no-no? What else can I lift it by? And where should I put the supports? Or do I have to learn how to weld really, really soon? I know some of this is running over what people have already said or suggested, but I just wanted a 124-specific rundown of safe lifting points. Thanks.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#2
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I would not lift from the diff. if I did not have too. .
I think that you could do it once or twice, but not every day. This past week for my rust repair I was able to jack the car from the rear lift pads, but I needed to place the jack-stands elswhere. So I put them on either side of the diff. how bad are your rears?? (rust wise) could you use a piece of wood to spread the load (like 18" 2x4). . just an idea
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87' 300DT (Grey w/ red leather) 87' 300TDT (silver w/ palamino tex) SOLD 2012 VW JSW TDI (on tdiclub.com all the time "btcost") |
#3
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Quote:
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#4
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yes I did. on either side of the diff.
on the drivers side, it was a tight squeeze next to the exhaust pipe. but it all fit.
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87' 300DT (Grey w/ red leather) 87' 300TDT (silver w/ palamino tex) SOLD 2012 VW JSW TDI (on tdiclub.com all the time "btcost") |
#5
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Why not lift from the differtial
I think and will continue to think that it is a perfectly fine place to lift the car. It is not very stable though, so before you do any work it has to be stabilized. My 124 has those hard rubber bumpers located near the jack points and I use those also for jacking and stabilization. That differential is hung in there pretty solid and I think it is in there as solid as on the W123.
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Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
#6
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If you don't need to remove the wheels - why not ramps? Do the wheels need to come off for working on the drive shaft?
Make sure you have a spotter, chock it, and you should be okay. I prefer jackstands, but if you're jacking points are suspect, then you gotta do what you gotta do. |
#7
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Quote:
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#8
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... so ... here's what I've done:
I found the damaged jack point was fine to put a floor jack under ... just not with the crank. So I jacked it up with the floor jack and put these under the frame. I'll just lift a wheel with a floor jack if I need to turn the driveshaft. I also left a floor jack and a bottle jack under the jack points for backup support. Thoughts? Should I dive under this? I gave it a shove and it didn't budge. Looks pretty secure and gives me plenty of room.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#9
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You wouldn't be I'm sure, but make sure nobody is under it when/if you jack up a trailing arm to lift the wheel/tire off ground. That can be enough to disturb your jack stands at a certain point.....
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#10
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I tried jacking up the wheel (without being under the car) and it seemed to be fine. Rest of vehicle didn't budge. All I did today was drop the exhaust and remove the exhaust shield, then I had to go to work. Hopefully it won't be too wicked out to get the rest done tomorrow. Even in the garage, this upcoming nasty winter storm is gonna be a PITA.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#11
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That's looks good to me. Just how I had my car jacked for the rust repair at the Jack points.
Give the car a good shake (with nobody under it) if your worried.
__________________
87' 300DT (Grey w/ red leather) 87' 300TDT (silver w/ palamino tex) SOLD 2012 VW JSW TDI (on tdiclub.com all the time "btcost") |
#12
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I think you'll be fine with the way you have it pictured. |
#13
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Hopefully I can brave the cold/wind to work on the car in the garage, but if not, I have a couple indoor projects to keep myself busy with.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#14
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Perfectly safe
Quote:
I've owned numerous European cars, domestics, Japanese, and Korean imports. Done everything from changing clutches, removing drive lines, transfer cases, differentials, control arms, wheel assemblies, and replacing bushings, mounts, bearings, flex discs, ball joints, etc, etc.... And always have jacked it up from under the dif with no issues. Different car, but this shows typical jacking points
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91 MBZ 300TE 4M 91 Jag XJS V12 94 Alfa Romeo 164 LS 80 BMW 320i 85 BMW 528e 86 BMW 325e 88 BMW 325e 88 BMW 325i 89 BMW 325ix 95 BMW 525i 96 BMW M3 78 Fiat Spyder 124 98 Land Rover D1 LSE 98 Range Rover HSE 4.6 93 MBZ 190E 2.6 96 MBZ C280 93 MBZ 400E 90 MBZ 300ce 71 MGB-GT 91 VW Corrado G60 97 328i 99 E320 Wagon 97 E320 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...r+sig+copy.jpg |
#15
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first off, this is an OLD thread, and the situation is controlled with the OP, she's even rebuilt entirely the rear subframe...
secondly, you are WRONG! the 124's differential has two very fragile mounts that will fail immediately if you jack with the diff... however, there is a substantial steel crossmember behind the diff, that is safe to jack on. Quote:
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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