The car will not start but when pushed to about 35 will run like a top all the way to wide open but below 1000 rpm the engine will just completely shut down and will not start, warm or cold.. Any ideas... I was running filtered UVO but since it started getting colder have been using just diesel.. Any ideas will be appreciated... Jim

__________________
James A. Harris

Is there any more info? What happens when you try to start it? Are the glow plugs working? Does the starter spin the engine?

The engine just dies if it's not above 1000RPM? It may be more of a cannot keep running issue, instead of a typical no start problem (glow plugs, starter, battery, NSS, etc)

__________________
1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting

If you are getting sufficient fuel at higher rpm's but it won't idle due to no fuel.............and the fact that it's been running VO.............begins to point toward the IP.

Of course, you can change the secondary just to rule it out...........but I seriously have doubts if that's going to do it.

Remember, the quantity of fuel required at idle is miniscule and any leakage past the plungers will ruin the idle.

You probably have another IP sitting around..........give it a try........



A second possibility is low compression, but I've dismissed this possibility because it won't start hot. Of course, if the problem has been present for several years while cold and has now worsened so that it won't start hot............that would point toward compression.

I would start by checking the starting and ignition system so that means glow plugs, neutral safety switch, glow plug relay etc. Also if i cant idle you may have air in the system, ip pump.

__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

Hmm, Seen this a few times over the years....

the WVO has killed the IP!

IF the veggy Isnt Prepaired PROPERY, and by this I mean DRIED of moisture Completely, as well as being Filtered to at Least 5 Micron, it will 'micro-corrode' the precision pumping elements in the pump over time. They will not then generate the high pressures needed for fuel delivery when the pump is turned 'slowly',--ie, starting and idling-speed, when using the comparatively 'Thin' std. diesel fuel.....

Get it hot, switch to veg and it'll 'probably' run at idle, but then switch back to std. diesel and it'll die.....

As Ive been messing round with veggy for going on 14 years with various engines, this became apparent pretty early on. All veggy used in any Engine MUST be Dried of Moisture before it goes anywhere near any car's tank--How you do this is up to you, but Heat and Air,--Lots of it-- are needed to remove this 'entrained' moisture!!

(Veggy absorbs a certain amount of moisture from the surroundings, bad storage etc, and settling--even for weeks--is just NOT good enough. The 'older' the WVO the higher the FFA content and the higher the 'absorbsion' of moisture from the surroundings/air etc. The FFA Content will also make the entrained moisture Acidic)

--So, New/Replacement Pump I'm afraid, you are looking at!

__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

From what I have read on here about similar symptoms after running WVO, I concur. Although as Brian mentioned, it may be worth ruling out a few other simple things like filters or lift pump.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13