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  #46  
Old 02-19-2010, 12:37 PM
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Intersting--that's not a factory clamp on the hose and it looks like it's been cut off and reinstalled!

Also I ran the number off the hose and it's $56--hummmmmm

Also, I see a bubble in the line--not good, a leak is abound.

post your vin, I have a subscription and I'll look it up--

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========
THE WHITE FLEET
2016 GLE300d 4-MATIC 38K BROWN!
2012 S350 Bluetec==94k WHITE

2007 ML320 CDI==166K WHITE (FOR SALE)

Under new management:
2005 E320 CDI--140K--WHITE
1995 E300-Diesel-133.5K--THE CAR IS BLUE
1986 300SL--97.5K (European) AND WHITE. Back in Europe!
1991 190E 2.3-73K California Perfect.--WHITE
1995 E320-Wagon-159K--WHITE (recently scrapped)
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  #47  
Old 02-19-2010, 07:25 PM
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Location: Huntsville, AL
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Gas Line Check Valve

Hummmmm indeed on that fuel line price??? I actually clipped the very end of that hose down 1/2" last time I changed all the plastic fuel lines which I did when renewing all the glow plugs (fun job by the way with 5 of the 6 breaking off - I submitted a post with some graphics of my solution). I did not personnaly change that clamp though. When I first bought the car, I did have all the plastic fuel lines changed once before by a local indy in PA back when I lived up there. Good chance he might have changed that line at the time. Maybe he eliminated that line with the check valve. That was about 6 years ago though, and the very first evidence of symptoms, which started off extemely mild, so mild only I knew it was there, did not appear for about a year or so after that.

The air bubble you see disapears the instant I start the car and when it runs it remains bubble free. Is that okay or are they supposed totally air free even when not running for a couple days? The car had not run for about 24 hours at the time of that photo.

My vin is WDBJF25H4XA773456.

Last edited by leszek; 02-19-2010 at 07:46 PM.
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  #48  
Old 02-20-2010, 12:50 PM
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My car sat for a week with no bubble after the repair. . .

The folks at my favorite knowledge depot, World Auto tell me no air ever. This makes perfect sense in that unlike petrol engines, air in a diesel system with the high operating pressures as it has, will interfere with the pop off point of the injector. Air being compressible, and fuel as a liquid, not compressible.

Double UGH--per the EPC and your VIN, no check valve.

That still doesn't answer for the air--The o-rings on the hollow bolt on top of the fuel filter and the o-ring on the fuel screen could be suspect. I would think the aforementioned o-rings would all be renewed with a filter and screen change, but ones never knows if you're not the technician performing the work. If you changed all the plastic lines, all the line o-rings are relatively new, leaving only the filter o-rings as potential leak points OR the seal ring on the spin on filter.

Other than that, I'm totally stumped.

G
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  #49  
Old 02-21-2010, 01:19 AM
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Well darn on that check valve. I will keep an eye on that bubble and see if I can get rid of it. I do the filter changes myself. I change the hollow bolt "O" rings at every fule filter change which I do at every engine oil change which I do every 10k miles. I have changed the screen with "O" ring quite a few times as well. Never a change to the symptoms when this is done. I have noticed this air bubble in the system before but it disappears instantly when I start the engine and I always just assumed it gets purged out when I see it disappear. I guess I will try to concentrate on getting rid of that air bubble.
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  #50  
Old 02-22-2010, 09:39 AM
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One other question.

You mentioned something in one of the previous posts about compression with 5W40 vs 15w40 oil. I have been using 0w40 oil at the recommendation of a local mercedes service center I called the first week I owned it the car about 5 or 6 years ago. It sounds like I should be using something else by the sounds of your tests, though I am not sure any of this will have anything to do with the missfire/loading up issue I have.
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  #51  
Old 02-28-2010, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markg612 View Post
This problem seems to be this little documented check valve, A 000 476 37 32 AND/OR line A124 470 95 75--
I replaced the check valve, A 000 476 37 32 today. As usual, it wasn't as easy as it looked. I opted for just the check valve for a couple of reasons:
Cost - Check valve alone was about $55 bucks plus tax with MBCA discount, whole assy. was almost double that.
Second, that fuel line disappears somewhere under the intake but above the engine mount, and really looked like a pain in the arse to get to.
And it was a pain as it was working in a small gap between the fuel filter assy, the intake and the power steering hard line. I lost a bunch of fuel during this process and made quite the mess. {which I of course went and sprayed off later}
I don't yet know if this solved my issue as it was sunny and almost 60 today and the car struggles when cold. I guess I will find out on the way to church in the morning. Stay tuned........
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Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #52  
Old 02-28-2010, 08:52 AM
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I would have done the same if I were you. I went for the line because it was stocked in Carol Stream, IL and they could get it quick-

-Without the intake or the washer tank out of the way, the other end is impossible to reach. The tank isn't a big deal to pull, but more often than not you disturb the spray motor grommet and the wash fluid starts leaking.

Did you test the old one?
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  #53  
Old 02-28-2010, 04:08 PM
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Waste of time and $$.$$.
Had exactly the same thing this morning. It wasn't too terribly cold, just about 40 degrees. I accelerated up my "test hill" and I could barely make it up the hill, and when I really floored it it was cutting out and started smoking heavily. White or blue {I can't tell the difference}
Injectors seems to be the most likely for me based on my symptoms.
It does the above, then after warm there is still pinging when I try to "really floor it". It sounds like a gasser on low octane gas or like a gasser with the timing off. And it is cutting out and surging during these high rpm runs.
I guess I will get some Lubrimoly snake oil and give that a try. After that I guess the injectors will need to be pulled and checked out somewhere.
Now I have to see how to connect to an OM606 for a correct diesel purging.....

Oh, and the old check valve seemed to be OK. You could blow through it one way and it would close when you blew through it the other. Just like the new one....
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #54  
Old 03-02-2010, 03:52 PM
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Cured! (ymmv)

Though there is an overlap of symptoms that suggest some commonality, I think it might be different issues for different cars.
I just replaced the Pre-filter - with O-ring - and main filter, shortly after replacing all of the shutoff valve O-rings.
Based on the flattened profile of the pre-filter O-ring, and the fact that it cured the symptoms completely, I would suggest to do this first.
For those who have already replaced this with no improvement, I would suggest the next-in-line place for failure would be the filter housing-to-pump fuel line.
Verify that this has been retrofitted from the plastic clip version, to the banjo bolt version, as the plastic clip version was also a leak point.
In any case, fix all sources of entrained air, before beating on the high dollar solutions.. like new injectors, recessed valve seats, etc
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  #55  
Old 03-02-2010, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwoodland View Post
Though there is an overlap of symptoms that suggest some commonality, I think it might be different issues for different cars.
I just replaced the Pre-filter - with O-ring - and main filter, shortly after replacing all of the shutoff valve O-rings.
Based on the flattened profile of the pre-filter O-ring, and the fact that it cured the symptoms completely, I would suggest to do this first.
For those who have already replaced this with no improvement, I would suggest the next-in-line place for failure would be the filter housing-to-pump fuel line.
Verify that this has been retrofitted from the plastic clip version, to the banjo bolt version, as the plastic clip version was also a leak point.
In any case, fix all sources of entrained air, before beating on the high dollar solutions.. like new injectors, recessed valve seats, etc
Do you happen to have a pic of this retrofitted line? Or even the old one? I don't remember seeing a banjo bolt in that area.....
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #56  
Old 03-05-2010, 11:29 AM
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Here is the thread from Roy (whunter):

1995 E300 D Plastic injection pump lines, OM606.910

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1543864

The Fuel line is number 107 on the exploded diagram, and the banjo bolt is 113.

This was updated to match what I believe is the marine application of this fuel system.

I now have a spare.. You never know
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  #57  
Old 03-05-2010, 01:44 PM
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I've only been sort of half following this thread, but don't recall anyone saying anything about the heat exchanger. My 99 has two paths for the fuel system, and I think the path is dependent on coolant temperature. When cold, it goes through the heat exchanger to warm the fuel, and when hot it does not. If the car(s) in question have the same sort of setup, you might want to check for a bad coolant temp sensor or for leaks in the lines going to and from the heat exchanger, or possibly a bad heat exchanger itself.
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  #58  
Old 10-19-2010, 01:19 AM
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Well, after a blissful summer of driving the '95, the first tinge of barely cold weather hit and I could already tell that the missing and cutting out was of course still there.
As "luck" would have it, I got a huge nail in the tire, and whilst jacking up the front left I noticed quite a diesel fuel leak. Coming from the line that goes from heat exchanger to pre-filter. So, I just went ahead and ordered a heat exchanger since the intake is now off so I could view the fuel lines. We'll see if the heat exchanger solves this issue or not.
Still not really sure what it does or how it works.......
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #59  
Old 10-19-2010, 03:25 AM
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Fascinating! I just did my fall oil changed, looked right at the cooler, but never thought to inspect for leaks. I still have the noise encapsulation on mine, both parts in fact, which make leak discovery more difficult--one looses out on the subtle drips on the floor.

This is defiantly worth a check see. The thermostat is up top, but I never chased the lines down to the cooler, nor inspected the cooler. Woefully thought about changing the tank screen the other day, gave it a good shot, but with out a lift it looked like pandora's box if the line didn't brake free and the screen started turning first, I need a crows foot and a better line wrench, and now yet another empty fuel tank.
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  #60  
Old 10-23-2010, 06:02 PM
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I have tried several things to try and alleviate this issue. The latest attempt was the fuel heat exchanger, aka fuel pre-heater. The fuel line leading from the top of the heat exchanger to the fuel prefilter was leaking heavily, so I just decided to throw a heat exchanger at it at the same time.
So, here was the starting point:



I removed the crossover pipe and intake manifold, the plastic valve cover cover, the set of black tubing that I'm not sure what it is, tranny and accelerator linkages of course and I drained the radiator. {heat exchanger gets into water jacket of head}.



Here you can see the old fuel line that was leaking BADLY at the top of the heat exchanger. It goes from top of heat exchanger to prefilter.



I removed the two fuel lines and then the heat exchanger. {I'm guessing the lower fuel line is the supply line from the fuel tank, so this lower fuel line connection seems like the logical place to hook up diesel purge setup. Found NO forum info on that though.}



Hmmm, inside of head looks extremely clean!!



There is a gasket between the heat exchanger and head, so I of course installed the heat exchanger with gasket and installed the new fuel line. {leak was caused by flattened out o-ring at bottom connection. These engines don't really need the whole fuel line but I imagine just the o-ring. These o-rings aren't in the EPC, but the Mercedes parts guys version has o-ring part numbers}



Put everything back together and there I was back at my starting point.



now is isn't cold right now, not even close, so I can't test to see if this fixed the problem. However, upon a very hard acceleration it was doing it's "cutting out" thing which often accompanies this problem, so I don't think my issue is fixed.
My guess, tired/worn injectors.
sigh.........

heat exchanger: 604 070 00 79 $75.65
gasket: 604 078 01 80 $03.14
fuel line lower oring: 601 997 04 45 $02.46

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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