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#1
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Transmission swap w116
I am going to be pulling my failed transmission and putting in a new one from the parts car that I just bought. Is there anything that I should keep in mind while making the swap? Does anyone know of a DIY link on this?
Also, let me know if you need any parts from my parts car. It is a running parts car. exterior is rusty and interior is in decent shape. It is kind of a light brown/tan color on the interior.
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1998 E320 150,000 1980 300SD 240,000 1965 190D 79,000 |
#2
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Pull The one from your parts car first. That way you will sort out all the tricks to it on a car that doesnt matter.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#3
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The 722.1xx has a couple of issues. Check to see that the reverse band adjustment is at least snug on the one you are putting in. Pull the torque converter off and inspect the driving tang of the TC to make sure it doesn't have any cracks or excessive wear. Insert the TC and spin it a few revolutions by hand and try to make sure it is fully seated in the oil pump. The 722.1xx has a history of losing its tangs in the oil pump. That may have been what did your other one in...
There have been discussion of these issues in the past- do some searching... Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#4
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I hadn't noticed that last post in your hard shifting thread. Did you do any further diagnostics on your transmission such as pulling one of the cooling lines to see if it was pumping fluid?
The 116 transmissions are known for breaking the tangs that connect the torque convertor to the front pump. I'm guessing that all the hard shifting could have stressed those tangs.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#5
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Quote:
So far my list is to check: Check tangs Reverse band adjustment If I am pulling off the tc then do I have to buy a new seal? Also, I did a lot of searching and didnt find anything specific to the 116. Perhaps I am searching poorly.
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1998 E320 150,000 1980 300SD 240,000 1965 190D 79,000 |
#6
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Quote:
Of course you realize that although it shifts well on the parts car, when you bring it over you still have the VCV and the bellcrank that will need to be played with... I would buy a new seal for the TC and consider changing the big seal around the oil pump if it even hints at leaking. The proper ID for this tranny is 722.120 (in the 722.1xx family) or four-bolt oil pan tranny . You probably won't find it looking for 116 Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#7
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Quote:
Hey Rick, Thanks for the reply. I will do some searching oin the 4 bolt tranny. I appreciate yuor insite. The idea of this post was to search for hints on the swap and not for diagnosing my previous problem. Thats why I wasnt very clear about my failure. It does seem that I do need to still pay attention to what may have previously failed. I do anticipate adjusting the vcv.
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1998 E320 150,000 1980 300SD 240,000 1965 190D 79,000 |
#8
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Swap is fairly straightforward. Raise the car as high as is safe. Loosen the flexplate to TC bolts ( hard to do as the the subframe is in the way on W116) Remove driveshaft. Remove bellcrank and oil filler tube etc. Remove rear mount with jack under bellhousing. Remove bellhousing bolts. The top 2 will be hard to get to. Most use loooong string of flex extentions on those
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#9
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Quote:
If I took pics along the way do you guys think it would be helpful for the forum?
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1998 E320 150,000 1980 300SD 240,000 1965 190D 79,000 Last edited by nckmsn; 01-19-2010 at 12:52 PM. |
#10
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No, its not a piece of cake.... The subframe needs to be left alone, unless you also want to remove the front suspension. It's just somewhat in the way when you are trying to get to the flexplate bolts. You will see what I mean.
If you need to, you can drop the tranny on the ground and then remove the bellhousing so you don't need to lift the car so high. You might try dropping the tranny on a nest of three boxes and then cutting them away ,one by one.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#11
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Well I got the transmission out yesterday! It was a piece of cake, but did take some thought when disconnecting the flex plate. I lowered the transmission enough to get to the flex plate bolts on the top.
Other than that there is nothing in the way and the tranny came right down. I had the front of the car held up with a forklift.
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1998 E320 150,000 1980 300SD 240,000 1965 190D 79,000 |
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