Well I just bought my non-running wagon and posted it here yesterday after reading the summary of Kanoa http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=269800

I followed many of the threads and ideas for not starting and this is where I am at. Since I don't have much history on the car I am starting from scratch.

First, went I connected the battery and I about split my head open on the hood when the alarm went off. Didn't even know it had a factory alarm! Since I couldn't get it to shut off with key in driver door and ignition, I unscrewed the horn. (lights still flashing). Finally got it off with the pass door.

Anyway, this is where I'm at:
1) Disconnected return line to tank and getting fuel to come out (lift pump okay and getting through IP)

2) cracked open the hard lines at injectors and cranked (fuel coming out)

3) Still don't know if I have enough pressure to inject right, so I tackle the return line bango bolt (with spring inside). Since mine is the non-serviceable one. I took the one off my extra "good" IP pump I bought, and swapped them out (they both shouldn't be bad, right?). That was a PITA to swap out since I did not remove the intake! I did remove three of the hard line so I could fit my fingers in there to guide a socket wrench

4) A bit of diesel came out of the IP so I cracked injector lines again to let out any air and cranked it over. tightened it up.

Still won't start! Just cranks over and over.

Now I'm thinking it is not the IP or fuel, as I'm getting fuel to the injectors.

I'm thinking that it may be electrical (sensors?), or the alarm might have something to do with it. I saw the thread on how to disconnect the alarm. Do you think that might be something??

I thought that darn return bolt would have done it, but not so much

Have you made sure that your glow plugs are working? If you have fuel, then you should just need compression, heat and exhaust.

I dont know anything about the security system so I cant help there.

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1998 E320 150,000
1980 300SD 240,000
1965 190D 79,000

You can disarm the alarm at either door (just unlock it with the master key - square head). I'm not sure why yours didn't work with the drivers side. It should also work on the rear hatch or trunk on the sedan.

Yeah, I made the mistake of locking the car and then going to check a filter. When I lifted the hood, I sure got an earful

Does it stumble when you crank? How long are you letting it glow? I'd definitely give it a 15-20 seconds beyond the glow plug light going off (it'll go until the relay audibly clicks off). But, yeah, make sure the glow plugs are working. I've gotten my car started without glowing and with air in the lines, it's not pretty. It should stumble a few times before starting to fire, and then idle pretty erratically for a little while.

If you do get it started, crack the injector lines (at the injector), one at a time. Fuel should spurt out, tighten, move on to the next. This will help get the air out.

Good luck!

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1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting

Another thing to try is, starting with the accelerator Floored, when mine wont go this usually makes it go

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hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed

Congrats on your getting a 1987 300TDT. The W124 diesel wagon is a bit of a rare one since it was only offered one year in the US. I recall when I first got mine in 2004 it had roughly 185K on it, and the seller was getting calls on it the whole time I was looking at it.

Along the same lines as nckmsn suggested, if fuel is getting to the cylinders, then the glow plugs should be checked. Normally if the key is left in the glow position the plugs will glow for approximately 30 seconds then shut down.(This varies with ambient temps.) The glow plug lamp time varies according to the underhood temp sensor in the glow plug relay. The easiest way to check the glow plugs is to measure the resistance of each plug to ground. The resistance is less than one ohm for each plug. The next best thing is to use a clamp on DC ammeter and measure the current to each plug. The initial cuurrent draw will be 30A per plug. The current draw of each plug should be 8-15A after 20 seconds of glow time. The glow plug relay may not even be closing, and this will become obvious when measuring the current. There is also a fuse in the glow plug relay that may be open.

One other thing, I would strongly suggest getting a FSM (Factory Service Manual) to aid in your troubleshooting efforts.

Good luck,

-Steve

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1987 300TDT smoke silver w/ burgundy leather interior
2000 VW Passat wagon indigo blue w/ beige leather interior
1985 Mustang SVO
1970 Chevrolet K10 fleetside, shortbed

There is no disabler with the '87 alarm, just noise and lights. The box is under the passenger's feet marked BECKER, un-plug it if it doesn't work correctly.

Suck-Squish-Squirt-Boom. Should run if there's fuel, glow-plugs are a place to start, or injection timing if the pump's been messed with. Also be sure that the shutoff lever is all of the way UP.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

All great points! I think there is enough fuel and it just may need to be crancked longer with the pedal to the floor, as you mentioned. I bought a batt charger today and it is charging up right now (my old one just fried out a couple days ago). I will then TRY to check the resistance on the glow plugs I have a meter,but know very little how to use one. I'm great with mechanics and terrible with elec stuff.

I will keep you updated.......

Here's a link to get you started with the glow plugs: http://www.dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm

Same engine (more or less) and different chassis.

A fresh battery is often quite helpful for getting a car started. Also, you can check the connections, like the battery ground to chassis near the passenger shock mount and the starter connection under the car.

Keep at it. It sounds like you're almost there.

__________________
1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting

Crazy Nate - This is exactly what I need!! I took the wife out this evening and kids to sitters, so I hope to do some testing on the plugs tomorrow. I need to balance my projects carefully (cars and wife) or it's not too pretty around here, if you know what I mean . Hopefully I will have some good news later tomorrow

I got it started! But it's not running well- HELP!

Not sure what I did or didn't do to get it started. I

Checked for return flow from IP - good

Check resistance to glow plugs - good....it think. I also pulled the first one and tested it manually with jumper box.

I warmed the engine with the block heated for a couple hours as it is about 40 in the garage- I got it nice and warm.

Held the pedal to the floor and cranked. Within 20 seconds it started.

HOWEVER, it was choking and smoking a bit (which I expected - bluish gray) but it was idling with the pedal on the floor!! Once I lifted the pedal it immediately died out. Something seemed to be restricted or its something I don't know about.

I do not have the trap oxidizer and I just checked the fitting in the intake that goes to the ALDA (it wasn't clean, but wasn't clogged)

I pulled the pressure test plug on the exhaust manifold and it allowed me to raise the pedal almost to the top then it still shuts off (very slightly better). It will not rev up at all!!!

ANY IDEAS???

I'm thinking maybe there is something really restricted in the exhaust somewhere. There are three different cat/resonators or mufflers on the exhaust still - I don't know where to look now?

you have to keep the car running.... Keep the Accelerator floored until the RPM's spike to 2500-3, you've done well to get it running, Keeping the car running will allow the air to continue to purge the system.

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hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed

CAn you describe the results when you tested the #1 plug manually. You might have a gp problem. Is this the first time you plugged the car in for 2 hours before starting? I think you might also be on to something as far as restrictive exhaust, but make sure eveything else is how it should be before chasing that.

__________________
1998 E320 150,000
1980 300SD 240,000
1965 190D 79,000

I will try running it again floored for a couple minute longer. I wasn't sure and didn't want to break anything else.

As for the glow plug, I did what the link above talked about. Negative on wire threads and positive on the head threads. Within a couple seconds the tip glowed bright red. I quickly removed it as I didn't want to mess it up (if I could?)

I hadn't plugged in the engine heater prior to this. But the last time I tried to start the car before the battery went low, it started to catch like it was going to run. I just ran out of juice.

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1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on...

if there's excessive smoke I'd wait for more replies, to make sure you dont break anything

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hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed

Update....

It's still running like sh#$. Not much has changed except:

1) I started it and let it run longer- Foot to the floor and the rpm will not go over 700 rpm. Puffing medium amount of bluish smoke

2) I bought two fuel filters and just replaced them both. When I was removing the primary plastic one it broke apart. Look at what I saw inside (pic below). Full of rusty residue!! When I took off the canister secondary filter I could tell it was clogged as well. I poured it out and crap come out. I'm sure it was blocking up. Refilled them and started it up. Same thing - nothing changed

3) I tested the glow plug relay - good.

I was hoping the filters did the trick, but did nothing. Needless to say I will be pulling the diesel tank out to flush it all (once running)

I did notice there is a vacuum on the the top of the injection pump that was pulling down the "Stop" arm. When I pulled the vacuum line off , it popped up. Put it on and it pulled it half way down (pics). This was AFTER it turned off the car. (some built up vacuum). Not sure if it does this when running since I cannot see it. The first picture is with the vacuum on and the second with it off. You can see it on the right side a little.

I tried to start it with that vacuum disconnected - same
Read about the gas cap. took it off and tried again -same

Any thoughts????

Still thinking restriction again. I'm about to get my reciprocating saw and cut the exhaust off, but want to put some feelers out first

Attached Thumbnails

       

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1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on...