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  #1  
Old 02-07-2010, 09:06 PM
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98 E300 delivery valve seals

Getting ready to do the delivery valve seals on the E300. Its stinking up the garage and making the wife cranky. Found a tool on ebay for 33 bucks. where is a good place to get the orings and crush washers ? i will change out some fuel lines also. do i just replace the original hard plastic lines with regular fuel hose and clamps ? Its got 156,000 on it. that seems to be the time they start leaking. already read the great DIY posted on this subject.

Grateful for any input
Scott

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Old 02-07-2010, 10:12 PM
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I did same job last Easter, and I got everything from MB. DV washers & orings, all fuel hoses, and shut off valve oring. IIRC, also replaced the prefilter and orings.

The MB hoses are nice little example of German engr, Mine would only break apart upon dissambly, But I would just stick with the MB replacements given, in my case I had 210K miles and I will not be doing them again..

Good Luck,

Gary
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Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2010, 11:29 AM
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thanks, I am still searching for the part numbers for the orings and crush washers for the delivery valves. They are not on the EPC site. i think i will send an email to Phil.
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  #4  
Old 02-08-2010, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smacmoyle View Post
Getting ready to do the delivery valve seals on the E300. Its stinking up the garage and making the wife cranky. Found a tool on ebay for 33 bucks. where is a good place to get the orings and crush washers ? i will change out some fuel lines also. do i just replace the original hard plastic lines with regular fuel hose and clamps ? Its got 156,000 on it. that seems to be the time they start leaking. already read the great DIY posted on this subject.

Grateful for any input
Scott
Watch out for the springs falling into the engine bay as you lift the lines off the pump. Other than that, take your time. Oh and make sure when you reattach the lines, that you wiggle things around so the valve is correctly seated. You don't want to torque down onto something that's stuck at the wrong angle.
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:25 PM
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parts on order. I hope this also fixes my hard starting problem. glow plugs check out fine. after it sits for a while it fires then quits then i need to crank it to the point of killing the battery to get it started. after that it runs fine. Already changed the fuel filter. that solved a low power problem but the hard starting has been an issue for a long time. I would think if fuel is coming out of places then air can get in and cause it to lose its prime. Right ????
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Old 02-11-2010, 02:08 PM
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The hard starts is usually an air leak from an oring at one of the fuel lines. If the DV seals are bad you ought to see fuel on top of the IP leaking out.....

About the only one that will stop a running engine would be the oring beneath the rim of the pre-filter. If you recently replaced the pre-filter, check to see that you reinstalled that oring. You wouldn't be the first person to have indavertently thown it away.
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  #7  
Old 02-12-2010, 03:55 PM
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Thanks for the reply. The filter is good but its good and wet all around the delivery valves. it runs down and makes things wet all around the lines but I cant yet tell if there is more leaks until the parts show up and I dig in. I found if I hang on the starter the engine fires and goes to about 300 RPM. If I were to get off the starter at that point it would quit but if i stay on the starter and wait the RPMs go down then will climb to about 700. then its safe to get off the starter and the engine will stay running. its just a temp fix until I fix the leaks. I must fix it because the wife cant cope with the new starting procedures. I only just got her to understand glow plugs.
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Old 02-25-2010, 05:54 PM
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I finished the delivery valve re-seal. Happy to say it was basically uneventful. I did drop one spring, at which time I screamed like a little girl but luckly I found it on the floor. I cant believe what the intake manifold looked like inside. I read about it but it is still an amazing amount of crud. The car seems to start better but still not ready to claim victory. thanks again for all the input and the great DIY article and parts support from Phil.

Scott
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  #9  
Old 02-26-2010, 08:21 AM
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Now that you've got that sorted you might want to disable the EGR. Less than $5.00 worth of parts from Radioshack, about 30 minutes if you take your time, and a thread off this forum. Search egr bypass 606 engine. We just did our '98 and '99, works great!

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