oh, one more question.
it seems I am getting motor oil in my fluid.
any chance there is a rebuild kit for the pump?

There are rebuild kits for the pump. See post #4. Here is where I've gotten pump kits from.
George Murphy
Performance Analysis Co.
969 Oak Ridge Turnpike, Suite 258
Oak Ridge, TN 37830
865-482-9175

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DONE!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Do you still have O-ring kit? Also can you provide sending to Thailand? I would like to buy it for 2 sets. Please advise me total price including shipping cost. Thank you.

I sent you a PM. But so future international folks can see, I can ship to Thailand. I've shipped these to several countries with no problems. Cost is the same.

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My wagon's end rises with the engine running but when shutdown, the end sags. I've see what I think to be telltale spots under the end.

I figure I'll be order a set or two from you very soon.

Nice DIY!

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Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)

That's classic leaky valve. O-rings usually fix the problem. In a few cases a new valve is needed but that is pretty rare. The valve can leak internally and never drip, and it can leak so that it drips. So the drips may or may not be from the valve.

Here is more info about the system and trouble-shooting it.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/271570-self-leveling-system-how-works-troubleshooting-system.html

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I ordered and promptly received an O-ring kit.
Thanks Andrew !

I have been waiting for the right time to do this rebuild. Days turned into weeks, and with a break in the weather, I had a chance to go for it.

For anyone else considering, this was a pretty straight forward repair. The biggest concern I had upfront was the lines coming loose easily. Using proper "line wrenches" in 11mm and 12mm, no problem. Got them loose.

Followed the instructions to the letter.

Getting the valve back into the car with lines attached was reasonably straight forward. One of the lines gave me the blues, continuing to make sure it was lined up perfectly gave me the chance to get it to thread properly.

Suggestion: Try to get all the lines started before bolting the valve in place.

Once all buttoned up, I checked fluid level (not much lost). Started the motor to check for leaks. No leaks, good. Set it down off the jack and it leveled immediately. True test will be if over the next few weeks it is no longer dropping its tail over night. Next on the list is the accumulators to get rid of the bouncy ride.

Also, the 4mm pin provided was great for locking the arm in place. The attached picture shows the pin in use.

Thanks again for putting this together for us !!

Attached Thumbnails

 

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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

Renntag glad you got it done. I don't often hear back from people, which I guess means they didn't have problems. The fittings are definitely the most troublesome. The advise to hook all the lines up before bolting the valve to the bracket is good advise.

For future reader. I've had really good success with people installing these o-rings. I've sold well over 100 sets of these, probably closer to 200 and only 2 or so reported still having problems after the o-rings were replaced. And in these cases the valve had severe wear marks on the inside indicating that the valve itself was bad. Once the valve was replaced all was well. The valves seem to be pretty tough and rarely are bad, it's nearly always the o-rings inside that need replacing.

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No problem. Surprised more havnt praised your efforts. This was super easy and the instructions make it straight forward. The rear suspension responded immediately which is a good sign. I think the sagging is now resolved. I will follow up with long term results.

I ordered 2 kits anticipating that I might have another TD in the future.

Thanks again Andrew.

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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

So far my system works well but the flat rubber gasket for the reservoir cap is useless. (The large cap with the return (?) line, and filter below.) This causes fluid to slow weep out (capillary action perhaps) and I have to frequently wipe it off.
Do you stock these gaskets, or have a suggestion for an alternative?
Thanks, Jack

I am having the same issue, did you figure this out. I was thinking of contacting the dealer to see if the gasket was available.

Sorry to necropost, but I tried PM'ing the OP and it doesn't seem to work; probably because I just registered.

I would be interested in purchasing a couple of these kits, let me know if they are still available.

Thanks!

-Chris

Hi there,
If you are still selling the o-ring kits I would really like to buy two. I tried sending a pm but not sure if it worked.
Thanks!

Hello Gentlemen,

Hoping to do this today as I bought two of Andrew's kits recently.

I wanted to confirm my understanding of the instructions before proceeding, as well as having a couple of questions.

- From the first picture, I will be removing the accumulator lines, and the supply and return lines, correct?

- NOTE: Hydraulic connections are very tight and usually corroded, so take the necessary precautions and use the right tools so you don’t strip any thing.
What have you guys used to loosen this to have an easier time removing the lines? PB Blast overnight? Or any other tricks?

- For the supply and return lines, I do not want to remove the big connection, only the smaller line going into them, yes?

- For all the lines, in what direction are they threaded? Do I just go counterclockwise on all of them to remove?

The above is just trying to get it off, I figured thats my first hurdle for now. (I'm not a wrencher, I work slow at these things) After getting it off and inspecting it, will continue on with other instructions.

Thanks in advance for the help.
-John