in changing out front brake pads,after prying apart pistons,one locking ring around rubber bellow came off.is it possible just to get rebuild kit to put new locking ring in push in rubber bellows?caliper apperas good,no rust or leakage.

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95 e320,87 sdl,79 300sd

There is no "locking ring" for the rubber boot.

Are you referring to the heat shield?

A rebuild kit would have the heat shield, but installing it without damage is a real PITA. A special tool is preferred.

yeah must be heat shield,its a circular ring with tabs,rubber boot sits behind it

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95 e320,87 sdl,79 300sd

in looking in fastlane cataloug for caliper repair kit for ate it shows heat shield ,rubber collar and ring.do these just fit in in place of old ones,do you need special tool to put them in,my heat shield came out while replacing pads and pushing pison back,i dont see how you get it back on as well as squash rubber collar back under.

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95 e320,87 sdl,79 300sd

Also the exerior cutaway that is on one side of each piston needs to be lined up a certain way.
There is some information on the subject in the DIY section.
I read in one of the threads that the Heat Shields on some of the Aftermarket kits do not want to press in to the Piston Bores.
Oddly I will be doing the same tomarrow but the Caliper Kits I have are Made by FTE Germany. So I am hoping the Heat Shield fit will be OK.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

let me know how it goes,on my sdl i have 2 pistons so i can use the other for reference,but i still dont see how it presses in and stays there.it does seem there is a locking clip

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95 e320,87 sdl,79 300sd

anyone else have any input on this issue

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95 e320,87 sdl,79 300sd

It's just sheet metal. The bore is smaller than the piston and some force is necessary to seat it on the piston. Of course, without the proper tool, the force will also destroy the heat shield if you're not very careful.

Well it takes some time to gather info so that it can be put into an understandable order. You could also buy the Factory Service Manual CD set and not have to depend on others for info.

The below is for my front ATE Brakes (on a 123). I have no experience with the Bendix ones and from what I have seen the Heat Shield and Boots need to be done differently on the Bendix Calipers.

Despite Members saying it is forbidden; I have been unbolting Brake Caliper halves since the 1970s with no problems. So use your best judgment on that.

The bolts are M10x1.5 and the heads are marked 11.9
When you install the Caliper pistons there is a cutaway part on the edge of the pistons that needs alignment (mark the position before your remove the Caliper Pistons).

There is a special tool (#2 in the pic) for that. However, having recently done the ATEs on the Rear of my Volvo they listed the angle as being 20 degrees. I took a protractor and a 3x5 card and drew and cut out a Triangle with a 20 degree angle and used it on the Volvo and now the Mercedes to align the pistons.
Pistons).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

With the ATEs the Boot goes on before you install the Heat Shield.
I found it was easier to install it if the Caliper Piston was not bottomed out in the bore, sticking out about 1/4 inch.

On the 2nd Caliper Half I had trouble getting the Boot to seat. When I pushed on one end that other end would pop out. I found a Glass that had the same OD as the Boot and being careful pushed the boot evenly down. Since I was doing this at about 11pm I decided to let it set overnight and see if the Boot Stayed inplace.
I the morning the Boot was still in place.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Unfortunately the FSM is not clear on what position that Heat Shields are supposed to be in (there is a flat section on one side of the Shield),
It is clear where the Raised portion and the Cutaway portion of the Piston Lip is supposed to go as there is a big empty area on the Shield where the Raised part of the Piston Lip goes.
I installed the Heat Shields with the Flat tab facing the Axle.

I used a Washer and Socket to gently seat the Heat Shield Flush and then used the Socket by itself to drive it down a little more by tapping on the innter lip if the Heat Shield.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Putting together the Caliper Halves.

The 2 square O-rings that go between the Caliper Halves do not come in the Caliper Rebuild kits. I am reusing them.
If you look closely in the photo you will notice a hazy blue area around the outside of the O-ring. That is Thread Locking liquid. When I put the halves together that liquid will provide a further seal in that area. (Not a recommendation but how I have learned to do it.)

Assemble the Caliper halves and torque the Bolts.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I removed the other side and this is how the Heat shields are oriented on that Caliper (Drivers Side Front, US; ATE Caliper).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

thanks for the great pics,it certainly makes things clear

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95 e320,87 sdl,79 300sd

Please let us know, how everything turns out once reassembled.
My understanding from reading these boards is, one should never split the
calibers.
I rebuilt several sets for my SDL's without splitting them using a 2x3 piece of wood and c-clamps.