Ok so I've done some reading here and found other people talking about the buzzing flywheel syndrome when converting a 300D/SD to a 4 speed manual and using the 240D components. I know the best fix would be to find a 300D flywheel but ah they seem to be nonexistant.

Has anyone tried to have a machine shop add weight and rebalance a 240d flywheel to get it up to the correct weight (~38 lbs)?

Thanks.

__________________
If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon

Not that I am aware of. A good shop should be able to do it though.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The resonating is from lugging the engine below 1800rpm.

The solution is to add the damper to the driveshaft. The flywheel mass only smooths out the idle and aids off the line torque.

Thanks Eric and T, I was wondering if the damper from the automatic setup would help, I'll give that a try and post later any results.

__________________
If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon

Thanks Eric, I installed the weight from an auto setup and it worked! Driving in 3rd and 4th at lower RPMs no longer produces those buzzing vibrations. Driving in city traffic and the daily stop and crawl is much better.

I wonder what the extra 10 lbs of flywheel weight would do.....?

__________________
If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon

I'm about to find out how the 24 lb 240 flywheel works with a 617. Michel Bros. in Reno has agreed to do my tranny swap and I delivered the cars today.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

Another member by the name of Vlado mated an OM617 turbo to the flywheel and AX-15 five-speed in his Jeep Wrangler. The flywheel is about 13" or 14" in diameter and probably weighs 50 pounds.

With a much bigger heavier flywheel than either the 300D or 240D manual flywheels, he says he's driven it well over 10k miles now and no matter how slow he lugs it down he's had no vibration or buzzing problems at all.

FWIW, I'm convinced that it is the extra weight of the 300D flywheel that dampens those vibrations at low RPMs...

__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Too bad its not.

What damper are you referring to? Part number?

I have a 300TD that I converted to a Getrag 5-speed (used to have a cast iron 4-speed) that buzzes horribly below 1800RPM. Am about to do some serious rehab on the car and would like to solve this buzzing once and for all.

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

I don't have a tach in my 240, so I don't really have a good sense for what engine speeds I'm driving at. Don't you not want to lug the engine? Which would entail driving about 1800 rpm, or do we commonly drive below that?

I did hear the same thing from Winmutt and Forced Induction about the prop shaft dampener. Forced told me that the 240 flywheel would help with off the line torque and the 300 flywheel would smooth out idle.

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

It might not be reasonable to hope for no buzzing at that rpm.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I agree that the extra weight goes a long way toward dampening the irregular idle of the 617. My 83 300d motor with the factory 38# fw idles almost like a six cylinder. very smooth!

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

If this is correct, please explain why those who have used a 300D flywheel have NOT had the vibration and "buzzing" issues.

Also, if it is due to lugging the engine below 1800 RPMs, please explain why the problem doesn't occur when lugging the engine with an automatic? I can shift mine to 1st gear and lug the hell out of it going up a hill and never have the "resonance" issue.

Lastly when the engine is below 1800 RPMs the driveshaft is turning less than 200 RPMs in first gear. If the driveshaft had serious resonance and vibration issues at that low of RPMs how does it not tear itself apart by the time it reaches its max RPM range - around 1100 RPMs at highway speed in 4th gear.

Here's my explanation of my theory. In your original explanation of what the flywheel does you touched on the real reason why the heavier flywheel eliminates the vibrations when you said it smooths out the idle. It dampens the pulses of the combustion events. It just so happens that on the 5 cylinder it needs more of that dampening action and "smoothing" of the rotational motion because of the uneven firing (2 power strokes every other rotation and 3 power strokes on the alternating rotations). Basically it needs the dampening effect of that heavier rotating mass through a much broader "low" RPM range than most engines with an even number of cylinders.

Now, instead of a know-it-all "too bad you're wrong" comment, let's hear your explanation of your theory, and what evidence you have to support it. If you have any.

__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Skippy, R.Leo- I don't have the part number but if you look at the front flex disk on the automatic tranny this dampner is the piece that the FD bolts thru on the front of the driveshaft yoke.

__________________
If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon

They do. I haven't seen anyone that claims the 300FW solved the problem. Most of the time they added the driveshaft damper at the same time which is what solves the issue.

The torque converter can't transmit resonation because there is no solid connection to the drivetrain, just fluid.

Please read on how resonance works.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resonance

Sorry if thats the way you feel, but immature comments like "and what evidence you have to support it. If you have any." do nothing to support your position, adds nothing to the discussion and puts you in a very intellectually weak debate position.
Plus, from your last post, its pretty clear you don't even understand what resonance really is or how it works.

The number I found for a euro 4-speed is 123 411 01 47 072. NLA from the classic center, they suggested just removing it.