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  #31  
Old 02-19-2010, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
........ other ppl........
Other people..........which other people...........???

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  #32  
Old 02-19-2010, 05:15 PM
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How about me for instance, but then again maybe it just needed to be brought to your attention.
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  #33  
Old 02-19-2010, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
.............. but then again maybe it just needed to be brought to your attention.
.............unless you believe I'm clairvoyant............
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  #34  
Old 02-19-2010, 05:23 PM
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I thought that was a mandatory requirement for the position.
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  #35  
Old 02-19-2010, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
I thought that was a mandatory requirement for the position.
............apparently, quite a few folks agree with you...........
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  #36  
Old 02-19-2010, 08:06 PM
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Clair who?

;~)
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  #37  
Old 02-19-2010, 10:55 PM
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K&N filter

Anyone want a free K&N Filter for an OM603?
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  #38  
Old 02-19-2010, 11:48 PM
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If you wish to run some wiss bang filter I suggest you go talk to some one who works diesels in dusty conditions.
I run 3 elevating scrapers, a road grader & a dozer. Running any thing but the OEM air filter is a quick way to dust out a diesel. If you want to help your motor, put a cyclone pre-filter on it before the filter.

A kid wanting to impress his mates in a clean down town air environment may get away with some flash piece of foam that makes the car loud. He will probably wreak the car before the motor dusts out.

If you wish to run a turbo or NA diesel and have it last, you need proper filtration.

We only use Donaldson paper elements in our machinery & well known brands in cars & trucks. We clean out the filter elements regularly with compressed air (including the cars).
I have had visits from the local K&H 'expert', he soon forgets how to speak English when asked specific questions about dust removal performance comparisons with Donaldson paper elements. He has often suggested use of their foam filters as a pre-filter.

If you want to use a foam air cleaner, you may as well use Indian Bosch injector tips and Chinese oil filters with "home Brand" oil in the sump!
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
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  #39  
Old 02-20-2010, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
I agree that it's not a Mercedes application, therefore an extrapolation. However, if the same filter media is used, if the same foam and oil is used in both designs (?) then it has some value in asessing the performance.

I'm willing to assume that it does, to each his own on this.

The other side is whether the K&N is in any way better than the stock filter, other than its primary function: air filtration. If the air filter housing is a flawed design and difficult to maintain, or the engine already is worn enough that its blowby is creating problems with the paper filter, the K&N makes some sense as an alternative. I'm not in favor of taking out a well-designed and properly functioning filter system to put in a cone filter just for noise or looks, especially considering the difficulty in ducting outside (cool) air into the retrofit, but as with one of my cars, I'm changing the turbo and trying to design an aftercooler, and a cone filter is an easy way to filter air when the engine intake system is substantially modified. Might be my only option.

K&N are for ricers or racers IMO.
I think you could make something from the Filter below and have a washabel air filter with the filtration of a Paper Element Filter.

In the attached pic is a picture of a Fram WA8039 washable Air Filter. I does not have to be oiled and it is not a foam Filter or paper. I found one and only one at a Walmart. I looked at other Walmarts and tried local Autoparts but could find no more of them.

They do not make a washable Air filter for my Mercedes; if they did I would be using that. To see if they have a washable one for your Car go to the Fram Website.

Also besure to check the Filter itself to be sure that it matchs the Filter number on the box. At Walmart some one had stuck a regular Air Filter into the Washable Air Filter Box. The Washables part number starts with WA.
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K&N filter-fram-wa-air-filter.jpg  
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  #40  
Old 02-21-2010, 01:34 PM
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If anything, I'd like to install an oil bath filter.
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  #41  
Old 02-21-2010, 03:28 PM
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That looks like the washable one in my shop-vac.
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  #42  
Old 02-21-2010, 06:11 PM
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Putting one in my new to me S320,after I remove the cat,egr,and install a chip.
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  #43  
Old 02-21-2010, 07:44 PM
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Good point Eric,

We have a couple of tractors with oil baths, we change the oil in them once a year, there is normally about 1/2" of solidified "oil mud" in the bottom of the oil bath so I guess they must work well. There is never any dusting on the inside of the induction system after the filter. They are a bit messy. I think some of the cars from the 1950s had oil bath filters.
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #44  
Old 02-21-2010, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Good point Eric,

We have a couple of tractors with oil baths, we change the oil in them once a year, there is normally about 1/2" of solidified "oil mud" in the bottom of the oil bath so I guess they must work well. There is never any dusting on the inside of the induction system after the filter. They are a bit messy. I think some of the cars from the 1950s had oil bath filters.
I believe pretty much ALL engines used oil-bath filters until sometime in the 50's. My dad always said they worked better than any kind of element filter (paper, foam, gauze, etc). They were messy, but they sure WORKED!

Dad claimed that the only reason they did away with them is that the dealerships (main source for parts back in the day) couldn't sell you anything to maintain them (you just used your old oil and changed it a couple of times a year). They introduced the paper-element filters just so the dealerships could sell the filter elements...

I've always bought into the K&N, but I'm starting to believe they aren't the way to go - except maybe in the most high-performance or extreme off-road situations (the water/mud collapsing thing).

I have a K&N on the Banks Turbo system on my truck and the engine is DEFINITELY "dusted". Blowby is so bad that it gets rid of a quart of oil every 100-150 miles. Still has decent compression (good enough that it starts OK, even in cold weather, and it still runs good and makes decent power), but the oil-control rings are definitely TOAST!

I put a K&N on my old offroading Jeep, and will probably put it on the "new" Jeep I just bought to replace the old one, but only because of the potential for it getting wet...
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  #45  
Old 02-22-2010, 12:43 AM
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My 64 International Harvester 1/2 ton C1000 used an oil bath filter. Don`t know if they were used much past that.

Charlie

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