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  #1  
Old 02-19-2010, 06:55 AM
TOMCLARK's Avatar
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Unhappy 84 300SD trany removal

I have searched everywhere and cant find any information to help me with my problem. My 300SD is leaking fluid from the front seal(I think). When I fill the trany with fluid car runs and shifts great. I need to remove it to change the seal and also check the rest of it while its out.

I can't find any threads on what is involved or where I could get any information or pictures. it seams that the repair manuals don't cover the transmission.

If anyone could give me any leads on how to pull it ( someone told me that you have to pull the engine, but I don't see why.) or where I could purchase a reasonably priced book or CD I would appreciate it.

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Tom Clarkson


68 Plymourh Roadrunner 13,000 miles, Purchased new from dealer (waiting for restoration)
77 300D with many 84 parts 260,000 + miles Runs great but looks ratty
84 300SD Turbo 205000 miles
My new Baby 2003 SLK230 135k miles
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOMCLARK View Post
I have searched everywhere and cant find any information to help me with my problem. My 300SD is leaking fluid from the front seal(I think). When I fill the trany with fluid car runs and shifts great. I need to remove it to change the seal and also check the rest of it while its out.

I can't find any threads on what is involved or where I could get any information or pictures. it seams that the repair manuals don't cover the transmission.

If anyone could give me any leads on how to pull it ( someone told me that you have to pull the engine, but I don't see why.) or where I could purchase a reasonably priced book or CD I would appreciate it.
Nope. The Engine does not have to be pulled. I just pulled my tranny yesterday to repair a broken pump (did not line u the torque converter correctly).
The torque converter has 6 bolts, in groups of two. These are 13mm. There is a removable rubber plug on the bottom of the upper oil pan in front of the transmission housing. Use a 27mm socket to turn the crankshaft (clockwise) from under the car while watching in the hole to see where the bolts are.
There are two bolts on the top of the transmission that can be accessed from the engine bay with a 17mm box wrench. I used a piece of uni strut (can be obtained at home depot) to extend the wrench to where I could reach it. The remaining bolts can be accessed from under the car. I found it easier to place a jack under the transmission and remove the rear support, then slowly lower the transmission. This gives somewhat better access to the other bolts. On eaither side of the transmission are two brackets holding the cooler lines to the transmission, they are a 5mm allen. The cooler lines (either side) are a 19mm banjo bolt. Remove these. There is a 10mm bolt on the shift linkage on the drivers side of the transmission. Remove this and gently pop the linkage off. The nuetral cutout and reverse light switch are on that same side (the big black connector with the white ring around it). DO NOT pull on this. The ring must be twisted in order to unlock the plug. If I recall It turns clockwise to unlock, but double check, I was more focused on getting the transmission out than documenting the procedure. There is a 10 mm bolt on the speed sensor (same side, by the tailshaft), remove this and simply pull out the speed sensor. At this point secure the bottome of the trans with a jack. You do not need to raise it, just be sure it can't fall. You can undo just the three bolts on the flex disc that hold the drive shaft to the transmission. The allen heads are 8mm (I think) and the nuts are 17mm. These are a pain, the nuts are lock nuts. Take your time and be sure you are completely engaged into the allen otherwise it will strip very easily. Once undone, simply use a crowbar or similar to push the driveshaft back away from the transmission. I removed my downpipe to allow easier access to the starter and transmission. I used a flat crow bar (pry bar) to get between the flywheel and the torque converter and very very gently (don't want to brea the flywheel) free the torque converter from it. Actually getting the transmission back far enough from the engine is a challenge (the driveshaft will fight you and you will have to figure out how to position the trans and the driveshaft) I'm sure it would have been quiet amusing to a bystander to see me under there pushing on things with my feet and prying things with my hands . Hope this helps some----I can photograph some of the mentioned parts if you need to see what I was talking about.

Best of luck

Nick
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  #3  
Old 02-19-2010, 10:05 AM
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Forgot to mention: Remove the transmission dipstick. 13mm bolt on the intake and 5mm allen on the transmission. You will not clear the underside of the car otherwise. Also, the starter bolts are 10mm allen. Be sure to drain your transmission before you begin--will be very messy otherwise.
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  #4  
Old 02-21-2010, 10:57 AM
TOMCLARK's Avatar
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Location: Panama City Beach, FL
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Thanks Nick,
I had looked under the car and didn't think that anything would prevent taking it out through the bottom. I also appreciate that you added what wrenches you used. I will be doing the removal at a friends, who has a lift, and It will be nice to just bring what I need.

Thanks for the offer of the photos but I don't think I will need them. If I do I'll send you a note. Hopefully all I will have to do is to change out the front seal that's leaking and there will be nothing else wrong. ( Wishful Thinking ) thanks again
Tom

__________________
Many Thanks
Tom Clarkson


68 Plymourh Roadrunner 13,000 miles, Purchased new from dealer (waiting for restoration)
77 300D with many 84 parts 260,000 + miles Runs great but looks ratty
84 300SD Turbo 205000 miles
My new Baby 2003 SLK230 135k miles
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