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#1
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Removing injectors?
How do you remove injectors what kind of wrench do I use?
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#2
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Put the vehicle(s) you own in your signature so we know what kind of car you're talking about. You'll get more responses.
Assuming you own one with a 616 or 617, this should help: http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesinjectornozzlereplace.htm Scott
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Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold) |
#3
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I used a 1/2" 27mm deep craftsman socket attached to a 12" extension bar.
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
#4
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I looked at the Diesel Giant site and decided to say something. Sorry for the blury picture.
You will need a 1-1/16 or 27mm Deep Socket. However, some of the less expensive Deep Sockets have a reduced area and metal in the upper part of the socket. Sometimes that bends the little Fuel Return Barbs/Nipples. In the blury pic is the Craftsman Deep socket that have been using on Injectors since around 1975. Looking inside you see it is deep all the way to the end of the socket except for the square hole needed for the 1/2 inch drive. Buy some Injector Fuel Return Hose before you start the Job as the local part places do not have it. The exception I have been told is NAPA Sells it. If you buy the Injector Heat Shields locally they will cost $3 or more each. Where to buy fuel return hose http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=238219&highlight=Rabbit The Thread with the part numbers http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=210922&highlight=return+line+part+number After you install your Injectors you will need to Bleed the Air out of the Fuel Injection Hard Lines. Simply run the Injector end hard line Nuts down till the bottom and then back them off a turn or 2 to leave them loose. Crank the Engine until fuel is coming out of all of them and then tighten them; and try to start the Engine. (Besides pumping on the Hand Primer to clear the Air out of the Fuel Injection Pump Housing the above Bleeding Process needs to be done if you have run completely out of Fuel.)
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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This forum should also have something on that:
Repair Links http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82 http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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Quote:
X2. Definitely use a breaker bar for leverage in getting them off.
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1983 300 Turbo-"Nora" 1983 240D Auto "Lucia"-slowest on earth-1st love 1985 300 Turbo-Blue Goose-slowly plucking parts http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o...ly15/mbsig.jpg |
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