My roommate will give me a 1984 300d ... But .. - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

polarisrmk · #61 03-22-2010, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DankyMerc

oh one other thing I noticed one of the fuel lines that jump between the cylinders is weeping diesel... do I have to replace it with the same type of cloth covered fuel line? or if any will do can someone tell me what is the Inner Diameter of that hose?

I would replace all the lines at the same time with Viton Hose that way if you ever decide to run bio diesel this step will already be done. I believe the line is 1/8" hose. This stuff is pretty easy to find. The cloth covered rubber hose is also available on fastlane if you choose to go that way.

vstech · #62 03-22-2010, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polarisrmk

I would replace all the lines at the same time with Viton Hose that way if you ever decide to run bio diesel this step will already be done. I believe the line is 5/16" hose just like the vacuum hose. This stuff is pretty easy to find. The cloth covered rubber hose is also available on fastlane if you choose to go that way.

um, the hose between the injectors is 1/8 or 2.5mm you could fit the entire hose inside 5/16 hose. and it has to be diesel or Biodiesel rated. vacuum hose will not work.

DankyMerc · #63 03-23-2010, 01:08 AM

ok im going to look into the fuel line im also going to go ahead and plan on doing the valve adjustment myself what would be the fun in letting someone else do it right?

.... but first I have a couple bigger issues.. one is that when I did the B2 swap I had to disconnect the driveline at the rear of the trans .. before I did that I thought I could get the wiggle room i needed by removing the two bolts that hold up the carrier bearing ... one of those two things I did I think may have caused a slight driveline vibration at high speed.. its very subtle but I can tell its there if i pay attention... Although im not for sure that I caused it .. for all i know it could have been there before.. I only assume that I had something to do with it since I was messing with the driveline... so what could I have done wrong... is there some precedure to bolting the carrier bearing back in so its aligned correctly .. I noticed the small blocks it bolts through move back and forth for alignment perhaps? could I have messed something up removing the driveshaft from the flexdisc or reinstalling it? should I get new flex discs??

Also I found that I have an oil leak from under the oil filter where the canister connects to the block .. is it possible to get a new gasket? anyone know the part number or have some tips on fixing it up?

thanks again.. as usual

.. hopefully ill get some more awsome feedback and I can keep knocking these little projects out...

whunter · #64 03-23-2010, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DankyMerc

OK I'm going to look into the fuel line I'm also going to go ahead and plan on doing the valve adjustment myself what would be the fun in letting someone else do it right?

.... but first I have a couple bigger issues.. one is that when I did the B2 swap I had to disconnect the drive-line at the rear of the trans .. before I did that I thought I could get the wiggle room i needed by removing the two bolts that hold up the carrier bearing ... one of those two things I did I think may have caused a slight drive-line vibration at high speed.. its very subtle but I can tell its there if i pay attention... Although I'm not for sure that I caused it .. for all i know it could have been there before.. I only assume that I had something to do with it since I was messing with the driveline... so what could I have done wrong... is there some procedure to bolting the carrier bearing back in so its aligned correctly .. I noticed the small blocks it bolts through move back and forth for alignment perhaps? could I have messed something up removing the drive-shaft from the flex Disc or reinstalling it? should I get new flex disc's??

Also I found that I have an oil leak from under the oil filter where the canister connects to the block .. is it possible to get a new gasket? anyone know the part number or have some tips on fixing it up?

thanks again.. as usual

.. hopefully I'll get some more awesome feedback and I can keep knocking these little projects out...

The rubber boot that holds the carrier bearing typically goes bad, and is an easy DIY.

#1. Remove the drive-shaft.
#2. Mark both sides of the slip joint for orientation.
#3. Loosen the slip joint nut.
#4. Separate the drive-shaft.
#5. Rip the boot off, (hands or a small rubber mallet is all you need).
#6. Check the carrier bearing for smooth operation, (replace if bad).
#7. Install the new boot, (hands or a small rubber mallet is all you need).
#8. Clean and lubricate the slip joint.
#9. Align the slip joint for orientation marks.
#10. Re-join the drive-shaft sections.
#11. Tighten the slip joint nut.
#12. Inspect the Flex Disc's for damage.
#13. Flex Disc Orientation, safety and durability issue.
#14. Install the drive-shaft.

Rubber boot that holds the carrier bearing
MB# 123 410 10 81

Gasket, oil filter housing to engine block
MB# 616 184 07 80

DankyMerc · #65 03-23-2010, 12:37 PM

Thanks for the quick reply .. ill add the oil gasket to my next order.. as for the vibration .. im leaning tawords the flex discs first as I just found some paperwork for a r&r on the carrier bearing and my roomate said he got it replaced no more than 1000 miles before the trans took a poop. im not sure when I unbolted the driveshaft from the flex disc if I put it back in the same position if that makes a difference.... the disc itself looks fine but I did quite a bit of pressure on it the first time I tried to pry the trans down low enough to get at the B2 before removing the driveshaft.

whunter · #66 03-23-2010, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DankyMerc

Thanks for the quick reply .. ill add the oil gasket to my next order.. as for the vibration .. im leaning tawords the flex discs first as I just found some paperwork for a r&r on the carrier bearing and my roomate said he got it replaced no more than 1000 miles before the trans took a poop. im not sure when I unbolted the driveshaft from the flex disc if I put it back in the same position if that makes a difference.... the disc itself looks fine but I did quite a bit of pressure on it the first time I tried to pry the trans down low enough to get at the B2 before removing the driveshaft.

Review of these threads will help you...

#12. Inspect the Flex Disc's for damage.

#13. Flex Disc Orientation, safety and durability issue.

dadette123 · #67 03-23-2010, 01:26 PM

If you did not take the two piece drive shaft apart then no need to worry about if you caused the vibration (as far as taking it apart and not putting it back together correctly). Now, since the roommate had the carrier bearing recently replaced perhaps it wasn't put back together correctly at that point (sometimes you can see alignment marks made by others). Ask your roomie if he noticed a high speed vibration before and after the carrier bearing was replaced. Regardless, if your flex disks show any sign of wear, replace as whunter suggested.

DankyMerc · #68 03-31-2010, 02:41 PM

So I have been happily cruising the 300 around daily for a couple weeks now .. i must say i am becomming a huge fan of this car ... its quite comfy and is running really well the few things I have done to it have really woken it up from how deathly slow it was in the beginning before it got into boost... The only thing is the slight vibration on the freeway .. but im going to be working on that next...

So Far I have done the following:

B2 replacement (whoo hoooo made into a runner!)
K1/K2 replacement
trans filter / oil change
trans mount replacement
cleaned out alda banjo + lines
Adjusted Alda 3/4 turn
Diesel purge
Replace both fuel filters
Oil change
Fixed springs in drivers seat
Replaced window regulator + motor in drivers window ..

things to do ... ..
Valve Adjustment (i have a feeling it needs this pretty bad) just need 2 make wrenches
Both Flex Disc replacements (got em ready to bolt in)
Change Oil Rear Diff (synthetic?)
Replace gaskets on lower oil filter canister (it is leaking pretty good from where the canister mounts to the motor, I got replacement gaskets anything to watch out for?)
Replace Motor mounts (might as well ... found new ones in the trunk)
Figure out tach / speedo / Odo (worth the trouble?)
Under hood insulation .. (is there a replacement? is it needed?)
Check + set trans vacum
Drive the crap out of it and enjoy every min of it

First off id like to take care of the valve adjustment.. dont think my roomate ever did it .. its a shame he owned this car before me... he got it from the original owner and it seems like it was very well kept until he got his hands on it...

Both the Speedo and Tach dont work ... I pulled out cluster and added a ground to one of the screws on the back very quickly.. no difference the ODO seems to work sometimes when it wants to ... the only one id like to have is the odo so i can check against it for gas milage... I was thinking about buying a new cluster from on ebay as ive seen them go for pretty cheap .. but not sure if thats going to solve my problem... where do i start diagnostic wise??

bgkast · #69 03-31-2010, 04:34 PM

The speedo is a mechanical unit. Make sure the cable is intact and installed properly. The gears on the odometer often strip or slip, but the speedo would still work. The tach issue is likely the black cylindrical tach amp in the drivers side of the engine bay. Try a few junkyard units as a replacement.

You can do the valve adjustment with standard open end wrenches, it just takes more swearing.

polarisrmk · #70 03-31-2010, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DankyMerc

So I have been happily cruising the 300 around daily for a couple weeks now .. i must say i am becomming a huge fan of this car ... its quite comfy and is running really well the few things I have done to it have really woken it up from how deathly slow it was in the beginning before it got into boost... The only thing is the slight vibration on the freeway .. but im going to be working on that next...

So Far I have done the following:

B2 replacement (whoo hoooo made into a runner!)
K1/K2 replacement
trans filter / oil change
trans mount replacement
cleaned out alda banjo + lines
Adjusted Alda 3/4 turn
Diesel purge
Replace both fuel filters
Oil change
Fixed springs in drivers seat
Replaced window regulator + motor in drivers window ..

things to do ... ..
Valve Adjustment (i have a feeling it needs this pretty bad) just need 2 make wrenches
Both Flex Disc replacements (got em ready to bolt in)
Change Oil Rear Diff (synthetic?)
Replace gaskets on lower oil filter canister (it is leaking pretty good from where the canister mounts to the motor, I got replacement gaskets anything to watch out for?)
Replace Motor mounts (might as well ... found new ones in the trunk)
Figure out tach / speedo / Odo (worth the trouble?)
Under hood insulation .. (is there a replacement? is it needed?)
Check + set trans vacum
Drive the crap out of it and enjoy every min of it

First off id like to take care of the valve adjustment.. dont think my roomate ever did it .. its a shame he owned this car before me... he got it from the original owner and it seems like it was very well kept until he got his hands on it...

Both the Speedo and Tach dont work ... I pulled out cluster and added a ground to one of the screws on the back very quickly.. no difference the ODO seems to work sometimes when it wants to ... the only one id like to have is the odo so i can check against it for gas milage... I was thinking about buying a new cluster from on ebay as ive seen them go for pretty cheap .. but not sure if thats going to solve my problem... where do i start diagnostic wise??

Looks like we have a new club member

As for the speedo... My 240d i used to have had a broken cable .... take the gauge cluster out and remove the cable from the back of the cluster..... drive the car and see if the cable guts are spinning ... if they aren't then you just need a new cable, if they are then you can take the cluster apart and replace the gears but i believe that the speedo still works even if the gears are stripped.

As for the tach.... its most likely the tack amp just like bgkast said.

Get the valves adjusted ASAP!!

85chedeng300D · #71 03-31-2010, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polarisrmk

Looks like we have a new club member

As for the speedo... My 240d i used to have had a broken cable .... take the gauge cluster out and remove the cable from the back of the cluster..... drive the car and see if the cable guts are spinning ... if they aren't then you just need a new cable, if they are then you can take the cluster apart and replace the gears but i believe that the speedo still works even if the gears are stripped.

As for the tach.... its most likely the tack amp just like bgkast said.

Get the valves adjusted ASAP!!

Just make sure to plug the oil pressure line. otherwise.....

vstech · #72 04-01-2010, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

You can do the valve adjustment with standard open end wrenches, it just takes more swearing.

no. you cannot.
the lower locknut is too thin for a standard wrench to work. at a minimum, you will need to grind the face of a standard wrench down to about 3/16" and if you don't have a torch to heat the handle cherry red for a bend, it's MUCH simpler and less painful if you remove the injectors to do the adjustment. plus it gives you the opportunity to clean the injectors, and make sure they are seating well on new heat shields.
I just made myself a set of bent wrenches, waaaay simpler than dealing with straight ones... if you start out with long handle open ends, there's plenty of length, no additional handle length is needed.

polarisrmk · #73 04-01-2010, 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

no. you cannot.
the lower locknut is too thin for a standard wrench to work. at a minimum, you will need to grind the face of a standard wrench down to about 3/16" .

This probably depends on the brand of wrench you buy. IE: not all wrenches are the same thickness. The cheap wrenches i bought and bent to make my valve adjusting wrenches did not need to be ground down at all. In fact they were near perfect in thickness.

vstech · #74 04-01-2010, 08:47 AM

sweet! what brand cheap wrench did you buy? where did you get it? all the cheapo wrenches around here are nearly 10mm in thickness...

polarisrmk · #75 04-01-2010, 02:39 PM

they were from one of those cheep tool kits that you would see at like the grocery stores.... chinese steal, really easy to bend... don't know what brand