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  #1  
Old 03-21-2010, 05:12 AM
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Axle boot question

Hi I have a 85 300D and I had to take the boot off at the axle end for a unrelated reason and noticed this boot was full of oil. Is it supposed to be that way? Seems weird to me but I am rarely surprised when working on this thing as stuff is different. If they are supposed to have oil in them how would you get that out when changing? If I drain the diff there would still be a bunch of crappy oil in there would there not? I would have thought there would be a seal at the end of the diff housing where the axle went in to it. If the boot cracked then all your oil would run out and that would be bad.

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Old 03-21-2010, 07:32 AM
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Yes, oil is correct...
if it had grease that would sling to the inside of the boot and stay there..
oil will be splashed around enough to keep the joint lubed..
" stuff is different'... very true.... that is why the Factory Shop Manual is important...
The differential oil is sealed in the differential.. ninety wt....
Each half shaft boot has its own oil ... or should....LOL

NOTE... some of the axle shafts have spiral grooves to take that oil back into the differential.
if you swap ends on those you are ' screwing oil ' out of the differential....
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:42 AM
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So as I understand you, the diff oil is different from what is in the boot? How would you get it in there?
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Holmes View Post
So as I understand you, the diff oil is different from what is in the boot? How would you get it in there?
Most people change the oil when replacing the boot - obviously. So in that case, the half-shaft is out, old boot taken off, new boot put on. First one side of the boot is clampled down, then the oil is added - pour in the prescribed amount - through the open side. Then clamp down the other end and good to go, sounds easy, huh?

If your half shaft is still in place and you want to replace what has been lost, you might be able to us a turkey baster or some such tool to squirt it back in the higher end. I don't know off the top of my head how much should go in, so I can't really say if you would be able to fully refill this way. Good luck.
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  #5  
Old 03-21-2010, 10:04 AM
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You have five ' oil ' containers between the wheels...
Two on each half shaft... and the differential.
As far as I can tell from the FSM... you have to take off one joint to put new boots on.. at that time you pour in the right amount of oil.... although in the picture it looks sorta clumpy... so it may be like 00 grease or something like Snapper lawnmower use... right at the edge between grease and oil for viscosity..
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Old 03-21-2010, 12:36 PM
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The type of lubercant has been discussed before. there is a CV Joint grease for these joints from MB. and the exact amount is specified.

the link below is from a thread Poll whether to re-boot old axles etc... fromearlier this past week.

Do a search and Iam sure a ton of info on the CV joint lub will come up
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=2429772&postcount=25

Charlie
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Old 03-21-2010, 01:34 PM
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OK, so what would the CV oil be? The diff calls for 75W-90 so I assume it would be different. Any suggestions? AMSOIL make a substitute?
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Old 03-21-2010, 01:49 PM
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I am sure MB gives the specifics of what it calls for.. they print a list of liquids which meet their specs... sure would not substitute unless original was not available...
I have called it oil because the FSM calls it that....and shows it being poured into the boot as compared to pumped or spooned....
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  #9  
Old 05-15-2010, 04:19 PM
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So how difficult is it to actually change the boot on the inner shaft? I have read a couple posts and it seems changing an engine would be easier. How difficult is it really??
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Old 05-15-2010, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Holmes View Post
So how difficult is it to actually change the boot on the inner shaft? I have read a couple posts and it seems changing an engine would be easier. How difficult is it really??
My factory manual calls for cutting one joint's two-piece can apart and pressing the one joint off the shaft. Then installing both boots and a new inner can onto the shaft before pressing the joint back on, and using a special factory crimp tool (115 589 36 63 00) to fastem the new two-piece can together around the joint. Then both joints are refilled with the correct amount of oil before clamping the new boots.

The manual specifies 230 grams of the 'spider joint oil supplied with the repair-kit' for each axle joint on the W123 chassis.

My manual also has a footnote that if the axle uses two different-diameter joints/cans, to only cut apart the smaller one as there is no crimping tool availible to service the larger one.

Some on this Forum have claimed they were able to use pliers, instead of the special factory tool, to crimp the new cans together, while someone else here has described in detail how he fabricated his own special crimping tool!

Alternately, there have been some threads posted here relating varying degrees of success at using a special tool, or even a tranny funnel, to stretch aftermarket boots over the joints, without having to cut off the cans or dissassemble the axles. Last year on my 240D, I tried and failed with the tranny funnel method, so I wound up getting replacement shafts from a local MB parts-place, rebuilt by CVJ-Denver.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 05-15-2010 at 08:52 PM.
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  #11  
Old 05-16-2010, 12:56 AM
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The Astoria boot expander tool seems to be about the simplest way with aftermarket boots.

A compressor and less than a minute and both new boots are on.
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Old 05-16-2010, 01:32 AM
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I believe fruitcakesa said he rebooted his Annular Axles. I believe he took apart the Annular End to get the stock type Boots on.
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Old 05-16-2010, 02:28 AM
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you should search axle boot replacement. There's several good threads with pics including mine.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=251168&highlight=axle
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  #14  
Old 05-16-2010, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I believe fruitcakesa said he rebooted his Annular Axles. I believe he took apart the Annular End to get the stock type Boots on.
One of the rebuilt replacement axles I looked at had an inner joint assembled with allen-bolts, like those used on Audis or BMWs. If my original shafts had been this type I would have rebooted. Aftr I attempted the funnel-method with my 240D, I already had my axles out and rear-end apart. and couldn't readily find the special Astoria tool locally.
Some posted that their new boots tore anyway, so I went for the rebuilts. At least I was able to return my aftermarket Dorman boots, undamaged.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #15  
Old 05-16-2010, 09:12 AM
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Well I would not likely find a replacement where I live, and it seems silly to change an axle because of a torn boot. There must be a way to get the new ones on....I hope

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