35 years ago, I was staying in an old Holiday Inn off I-20 and two maids wre trying to get in my room with their master key toward midnight on night, with their boyfriend/accomplices in an idling old car - yes, Skid Row Joe was scared out of his mind as they were trying to turn the deadbolt too. They did not succeed - needless to say I'm still here. Be careful in that town.

Nowadays I stay at in Meridaian at the Cracker Barrel's parking lot or Walmart in my diesel-motorcoach.

I'm in Meridian. Here's a link to my rough GPS coordinates.

EDIT:

Those were not rough enough. And after reading your story I'm slightly concerned about broadcasting exactly where I am.

At first I read this as a funny story about some maids attempting to get frisky with their boyfriends in an empty room but after a closer read that's frightening.

This isn't the prettiest place on earth from the limited bits I've seen, but at least the hotel lobby's doors were open when I checked in. Conducting transactions through bulletproof glass always puts me at ill ease.

If the MB diesel acts as my 7.3 Powerstroke diesel did - it takes a little driving before the strainer in the fuel tank starts to no-deliver/starve the fuel supply. Sediment/gunk collects on the fuel-strainer-screen in the fuel tank, and no fuel.....turn the engine off for 5 minutes - and the sediment falls away - repeat process.......

To my knowledge - the principle with an MB fuel tank would have to work the same way - thankfully, I inspected and changed out the fuel strainer on my '83 300SD right when buying. It was clear as a bell in the fuel tank, btw.

The main (or the big spin-on fuel filter remained a 10K mile culprit on my 300SD. I started routinely changing it at 10K mile intervals.

The $9.00 dollar main spin-on looking fuel filter may well be his culprit here......

*Take heed of my battery-alternator story.......it happened to me between Tuscaloosa and Jackson, MS. on I-20 in the dead of winter. I changed out my alternator on the parking lot at Blackwell Chevrolet / Mercedes-Benz Jackson, MS. - on I-55 north I carried my own jack and jackstands - tools etc. It was in the 20 degree range - but I DIYed it myself many years ago. It can be done if you have the tools/know how.

Good luck in the morning.
You will need a good battery anyway so best you go shopping for one at walmart or auto zone. With a bit of luck there is one near the car. You may need an adjustable spanner for the terminal bolts & the battery hold down bolts so you can change the battery.
I dont believe its an air leak, if it was you would be having to prime it each time you tried to start it.
How hard is it to start? If it needs cranking for more than say 20 sec then it may be bleeding air out.
When it restarts, does it start very rough, on about 2 cylinders and eventually clears itself? That is what happens with an air leak normally.
With a vent problem in the tank or a blockage, after leaving it it often starts relatively easy.
I have done a short term fix of a blockage by using the tire air at the gas station to blow back down the fuel line to the tank. You need to have the tank less than 1/2 full to do it though or the fuel blows out the filler. The cap needs to be off when you do this.
If you dont like the idea of leaving the cap off the tank, you can put a piece of the stick out of an ice cream between the cap rubber seal & the tank filler so that the tank can vent through there.

Its fair to say that you have a few of us determined to get you home even if its a slow drive.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Thanks again everyone.

In the morning I'm going to enjoy my free continental breakfast and walk back to the car, stopping at Advanced Auto Parts to pick up a few new filters and a new battery. If I get it running I'll see the sites, without turning off the car and if it does alright I'll attempt the drive home.

AS far as getting the MB home - I don't know what to tell you. You'll just have to ruminate/check pricing options....

I think the fact that the car runs for a while is a good sign.

The fuel filter (the big one) is probably the culprit. If you can change it out yourself - before the Import repair service opens - do it. Now you have to get the thing started - if you can jump it -fine - the weather's good and you can drive it all day without a battery/alternator (being a diesel)

When my alternator went bad between Tuscaloosa, AL. and Jackson, MS. it was approaching dark into Jackson - cold wintertime. I was jump started the next morning at no charge by the MB roadside free service - you can call then 24/7 and you can get as many free jump starts as you want to. 1-800-For Mercedes, is the toll free nationwide number - at least it used to be. Anyway, a tech, from the MB dealer in Jackson jumped my MB at my motel in the morning - then I drove to north Jackson and bought a new alternator and installed it myself - what they didn't tell me was that the battery should have been charged for several hours and not by the new alternator. So, the old battery blew-out the new alternator - and I ended up changing both - a new battery and new alternator, on the parking lot of Park Place Mercedes-Benz in Dallas, Texas - two days later. Yes, I travel cross country a lot. All parts were covered by warranty by MB.

They first few times it started right up, but the last time I started it I had to give it some gas. Not 20 seconds worth, more like 5-10.[/QUOTE]

It starts nice and smooth

With a vent problem in the tank or a blockage, after leaving it it often starts relatively easy.

Vent it the entire time as opposed to stopping to open and close it?

I love this kind of adventure. I just wish I had gotten the timing better considering anniversary's and whatnot.

Not a problem as they aren't open on the weekends.

I never knew that about diesels. I think I'll buy a battery while I'm at the parts store and carry it back. I can get a jump from whoever or AAA or MB but if someone goes awry on a quiet part of I-20 I can pop in the new battery without any issues, right?

Changing the secondary filter is a good idea. You will need an adjustable spanner to undo the center bolt.
When you replace the canister filter (secondary) it is important that you fill the new filter with diesel before you put it on the motor. Otherwise you will need to bleed the system.
If you dont have any spare fuel to do it, you can try carefully pouring the fuel out of the old filter into the new one, make sure you try and avoid getting any water or crud from the old filter into the new one, some times there is some in the bottom of the old filter.
When you try & start the car after this, hold the throttle flat to the floor until it starts.

If you need to provide any details like your exact location to any one on here, send them a private message.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

It is best to have the tank vented all the time. I have driven with the cap off a couple of times, you spill a bit of fuel when ever you go around a left bend, it makes a mess.
The ice cream stick works, I have done it!!

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Adding that to the shopping list for the morning.

It's getting late so I'm going to catch some Zzzz's. I'll check this thread again in the morning and update everyone once I've had a chance to work on the car.

The fact of the matter is that once you start the MB diesel - you can pull the battery out - and it stays running - just don't shut it off.

Remember - 1-800-For-Mercedes - call it wherever and whenever - it is always free of charge to jump start you, or Free fuel if you run out or Change your tire if you have a flat.

The MB tech has a new battery to sell you for something like $250.00 plus tax! Don't buy it from them on-the-road - that's a rip-off.

Buy your replacement from Interstate/Auto Zone/ Walmart / Sears (there's a Mall on the south side of I-20 there - may be a Sears store.) The Mall is up on the hill behind the Harley-Davidson dealer and the Ryan's Steakhouse. Walmart at the exit where your motel probably is at on the south side of I-20.

WHEN CHANGING THE MAIN (BIG SPIN-ON LOOKING FILTER WITH THE BIG BOLT DOWN THE CENTER OF IT)

These MB diesels in that era are equipped with an in-line very visible hand pump - you simply unscrew it and start pumping it - when done - screw it back in. It is right before the first small in-line fuel filter in the engine compartment.

As long as he DOES NOT TIGHTEN DOWN THE BIG BOLT GOING INTO THE MAIN FUEL FILTER - AND LEAVES SOME OPEN PLAY) he can simply unscrew the round twist handle in white in the fuel line and pump diesel fuel into the new main fuel filter - when it starts to hiss and flow out the top - then tighten it down and he's good to go - crank the engine to start.

Well if it is a plugged vent line it is probably the litttle bell valve on the end. I do not know where it is on a station wagon. Maybe a station wagon owner can chime in. If one does not respond I suspect you will see a rubber hose in the vicinity of the fuel tank underneath the car with a little bell valve on it.. Or just visually inspect it because if it is obstructed it should be in the valve on the end of the rubber hose. Remove the valve and clean it if it looks obstructed. It should just pull out of the hose.

The reason for verification is the distance run till loss of power does not seem far enough to me. Although It is possible. Especially since the tank configuaration is different as well. You should be able to get the battery charged locally. Start the car and disconect the battery. That way you can save it for some more starts by quickly hooking it up again. Then undo the fuel cap.

You can run with the filler cap loose. You cannot do that with the car as fuel will slosh out the filler neck as the tank and fuel is higher I suspect when the tank is pretty full. On a station wagon a piece of cloth wrapped up and inserted in the filler neck should allow enough air through the material to act as a vent. I would be very hesitant to go back out on the highway without finding some tangiable indication of what the actual problem is.

You can work around a blocked vent line once you are sure that is what it is easily one way or another. I suspect your alternator is also pretty bad so do not go out on the highway with just a boost. Get the battery charged up and prefferably load tested. No night driving.