door check loud clicking sound - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

funola · #1 04-06-2010, 05:15 PM

I can see movement of the hinge as I open the drivers door where a very loud clicking (snapping) sound is heard. The part that is loose is in the chassis? not in the door. Are there bolts inside that can be tightened? I haven't taken the grill/speaker out to look yet.

andrewjtx · #2 04-06-2010, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I can see movement of the hinge as I open the drivers door where a very loud clicking (snapping) sound is heard. The part that is loose is in the chassis? not in the door. Are there bolts inside that can be tightened? I haven't taken the grill/speaker out to look yet.

Check the weld spot on the door pillar to see if the weld has broken. Mine was broken when purchased and I just haven't fixed it yet. Fix can be either a re-weld or someone I read had drilled and tapped the weld spot and fixed it with a flat-head machine screw.

Haven't decided which I'll go with yet. Other things to fix. It does draw attention when I'm getting out of the car. It's a PITN, not yet a PITA.

rrgrassi · #3 04-06-2010, 05:20 PM

It's held in place by a pin. I believe it's welded into the door jamb.

You will not see anything by removing the speaker and grill.

Carpenterman · #4 04-06-2010, 06:13 PM

If the bracket on the pillar that receives the pin is OK, there are two 10mm bolts on the outside of the door near where the strap passes through that you can try tightening. There is also one 10mm bolt on the frame of the door behind the door card that may be loose.

However, these door check straps are a common failure item. Does the door still check in both locations?

funola · #5 04-06-2010, 08:55 PM

The door does check in both positions. What's loose is the part on the door jamb. I'll take a closer look for the (broken) weld and see if I can tap it and secure with bolts.

funola · #6 04-08-2010, 10:19 AM

The upper right spot weld is clearly broken (perforated sheet metal), can't tell if lower right is broken (probably is). The left weld is very substantial and I wouldn't call it a spot weld. Is it for the door check or somthing else? Should I also drill and tap there?
I'd love to quiet it down as it is very loud and annoying.

funola · #7 04-08-2010, 03:42 PM

I stuck a paper clip in the upper right hole and there was nothing behind it! Not wanting to screw around and waste time finding where to drill and tap by trial and error, I installed 2 sheet metal screws to jam tight the loose hinge as in pic below. Instant fix! No more noise yeah!!!

vstech · #8 04-08-2010, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I stuck a paper clip in the upper right hole and there was nothing behind it! Not wanting to screw around and waste time finding where to drill and tap by trial and error, I installed 2 sheet metal screws to jam tight the loose hinge as in pic below. Instant fix! No more noise yeah!!!

instant TEMPORARY fix...

I hope you track down the correct repair soon, or you will be fixing the door jam as well...

funola · #9 04-09-2010, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

instant TEMPORARY fix...

I hope you track down the correct repair soon, or you will be fixing the door jam as well...

May I respectfully ask if you have expereince or have read of other's experience who have made the same "fix" I made and failed leading to door jamb repair? Please post links if you have them. I will leave my "temporary" fix in place and see how long it lasts and report any problems if any. This is on my daily driver so the door opens/closes a lot.

vstech · #10 04-09-2010, 10:19 AM

Please don't think I am being snooty or anything, I'm just looking at the screws sitting against the sheetmetal, and thinking it's going to wear. you have moved the tension from the plate that is tortionally attached to the inner frame of the vehicle, to the flat chunk of tin on the outside of the door jam... I have seen A LOT of cars that have really broken up from similar repairs. the check will flex the metal every open and close. do you want pics of the cars in my yard with this damage showing?
really, you want to fix the plate back the way it needs to be fixed.

TX76513 · #11 04-09-2010, 11:16 AM

I made a patch with JB Weld on both side of the jam and reinstalled using same hardware. Over two years now and still is fine. Disclaimer - SD is not a daily driver so it may not getting the proper abuse.

funola · #12 04-09-2010, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Please don't think I am being snooty or anything, I'm just looking at the screws sitting against the sheetmetal, and thinking it's going to wear. you have moved the tension from the plate that is tortionally attached to the inner frame of the vehicle, to the flat chunk of tin on the outside of the door jam... I have seen A LOT of cars that have really broken up from similar repairs. the check will flex the metal every open and close. do you want pics of the cars in my yard with this damage showing?
really, you want to fix the plate back the way it needs to be fixed.

John,

Not at all. Do you know how many spot welds there are and where they are located? I know it's a lot to ask but do you have a pic of the part inside the door jamb? When I poked the paper clip in the upper right hole, there was nothing behind it. Either that is not one of the spot welds or the part partially snapped off. I don't like working blind so any specific info is appreciated.

What's making the loud snap sound is analogous to snapping your fingers. There has to be movement for the sound to occur. By stopping the movement (with the 2 screws), no more sound.

Renntag · #13 04-15-2010, 04:57 PM

How many have removed the door panel to gain access to the third bolt, removed the door stop assembly, cleaned, lubed and returned it to proper service? I am contemplating this, but dont wish to do the work twice.

APE offers the stops cheap enough, but I am also trying to keep the total investment into the car as low as reasonably possible.

3 of my 4 doors are popping and making loud noise.

Carpenterman · #14 04-15-2010, 05:52 PM

I replaced the driver's door stop a couple of weeks ago using a used one from my parts car. It is very easy to remove. Pull the pin on the door pillar, three 10mm bolts (two on the outside door frame and one inside) and the door check pulls down and out of the door frame. Of course, you have to remove the door card. I cleaned the used unit up with brake cleaner and regreased with bearing grease. Hard to overgrease because the detent pockets where the balls sit have holes that squeeze out any excess grease. Cool little design.

Regarding the OPs problem, I observed that there is some minimal distortion of the door pillar as the door check goes through its motion. So it looks to me that the spot welds are bracket to pillar, rather than in the location you showed on your photo which is 90 degrees to the pillar. Depending on how the bracket was formed, your paper clip may just be going through the space left when the "arms" of the bracket were pressed out of the bracket itself.

caa337 · #15 04-15-2010, 07:51 PM

We just removed the door stop on the back right passenger door, but now the right driver side is doing it. They are pretty cheap(like 12 dollars for a new one) So ill probably get 2 and just replace them, after 23 years of wear and tear they are gonna wear down.

And FYI when we removed the door stop that door made no more noise, you just have to be careful not to slam it and bend the metal because the stopper isn't there anymore but it works perfectly.