Have a mystery leak. Leaks a drop or more every hour when car not running. With car running certainly not leaking any faster, may even be slower. Car runs fine. Pulled injector cover off, all injectors are bone dry, the return bleed hose that runs from #1 to the fuel filter connector tube was seeping so changed it but didn’t solve the problem. Have both plastic covers off underneath front end so I can look up and car sitting up on jack stands but just can’t see where it’s coming from?

Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks
Bill

Look up under the shut off valve on the side of the IP using a mirror and flashlight. Seals to the IP with a oring.

Check all plastic fuel line seals too.

If everything is too dirty to see where the leak is comming from spray it down with a can of brake cleaner to degrease everything then drive it 20 miles and look again.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

^^^Good advice.

Looks to me like my leak is coming from the O Ring at the small fuel pump (believe that is correct name) which bolts on to the side of the injection pump, under the shut-off actuator. Plan to also replace some of the short fuel lines which run between the full-flow filter, the shut-off actuator and the small fuel pump but that raises the question of how to release those connections, which include the white plastic clips? Will first need to remove the intake manifold to gain access. Since I haven’t been able to beg, borrow or steal a shop manual, can someone please send me the info., including torque settings?

Thanks
Bill

Remove the windsheild washer bottle and flip it up and out of your way. THen reach under. Manifold bolts if you must remove it get 20NM torque.

A leak at the lift pump is usally a fuel line oring. If the gasket sealing the lift pump to the IP leaks, it will leak engine oil, not fuel.

The white horseshoe clips are spreaders designed to release the clips holding the fuel line in place. Push the spreaders in (ie: make a ringer) for removal. They should be retracted and be loose and floopy after the new fuel line/oring is properly installed.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Thanks Terry for that good info.! If leak is only at o ring is there any reason to change the whole line? Assuming every connection to the shut-off actuator and the lift pump uses an o ring? There is definitely some fuel dampness on one connector to the shut-off valve but the other is bone dry. Any reason to change the one that is dry or just wait? Assuming I’ll have at least two wet o rings to replace, should I be able to do it without removing the intake or does removing it make more sense?

My leak, or at least this one, is strictly fuel so I won’t worry about the gasket sealing the lift pump. I do have a very slow oily looking (could be dirty fuel)leak from the lower rear drivers side corner of the IP, where the rear plate meets the IP. Appears that those fasteners are like 36T (make sense ?). Very tight back there. Any chance I could slide a ¼” 36T in there to tighten? I tried some vice grips but gave up on that.

Once I push the spreaders in (ie: make the ringer) do I just pull up on the fuel line to get it off the fitting?

Thanks
Bill
　
　
　
　
　
　
　
　
　

Do an advanced search on my screen name and "606.962 oring sizes". Ought to pull up a post where I listed the sizes of most of the orings.

Not necesssary to replace the lines, only the orings. New lines are pretty cheap though.

Once the horseshoe releases the hold down clips, you just pull or gently pry them off.

Do yourself a favor and waste a can of brake cleaner on the fuel filter area and down on the top and side of the IP and get it good and clean, then confirm your leak. Fuel migrates down and back and the actual leaker can be deceptive....

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Terry, when I follow your instructions and get to the point of bringing up the “606.962 oring sizes”, it says “service unavailable” ???

Also, have any suggestions on the IP leak I described; “I do have a very slow oily looking (could be dirty fuel) leak from the lower rear drivers side corner of the IP, where the rear plate meets the IP. Appears that those fasteners are like 36T (make sense ?). Very tight back there. Any chance I could slide a ¼” 36T in there to tighten? I tried some vice grips but gave up on that.”

Also, “Assuming I’ll have at least two wet o rings to replace, should I be able to do it without removing the intake or does removing it make more sense?”

Thanks
Bill

　

Wjob,
Pulling the IM is up to you, However, depending on mileage, you might consider other items while in there.
I had 200k and had two GP's dead, my car was leaking fuel, and stalling out due to the air getting into the fuel lines.
I did not replace the o-rings on the fuel lines, but changed all lines. My horseshoe catches were brittle and failed upon removal.
I did carefully replace (6) GP's, this is a big one to be very careful on, search & read.
I replaced the o-rings at the shut off valve, one of the biggest leaks I had.
I replaced the crush washers at the delivery lines, special socket req'd. Surgical cleanliness also required.
I sourced all parts from the dealer and the price was not too bad.
Again, Do as you wish, I needed to do these things, and did so while the IM was off.

Best of luck,
Gary

__________________
Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW

The problem with those fuel lines is the plastic ends get very brittle with age. So you might push in the horseshoe, pull on the line, and have the end come apart on you. Then the car is undriveable until you're able to replace the line.

My first shutoff valve cracked right through the middle which was nearly impossible to track down until I removed it. Much more common is the O ring between the shutoff (black box) and the injection pump.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

QUOTE “Terry, when I follow your instructions and get to the point of bringing up the “606.962 oring sizes”, it says “service unavailable” ???

Also, have any suggestions on the IP leak I described; “I do have a very slow oily looking (could be dirty fuel) leak from the lower rear drivers side corner of the IP, where the rear plate meets the IP. Appears that those fasteners are like 36T (make sense ?). Very tight back there. Any chance I could slide a ¼” 36T in there to tighten? I tried some vice grips but gave up on that.”

Also, “Assuming I’ll have at least two wet o rings to replace, should I be able to do it without removing the intake or does removing it make more sense?” End of QUOTE

Your replies have been very helpful. Thank you. Sounds like I need to give more thought to replacing the lines in addition to the orings, or at least have the lines on hand in case I need them. If I go that route, what’s involved with the R/R of those lines at the full-flow filter?

Also, any thoughts on my other questions covered in the above quote: advisability of first removing IM, source for 606.962 oring sizes, and my other leak at the IP rear plate?

Regarding the question of first removing the IM, I’m not planning on doing the Glow Plugs or the IP delivery valves at this time but maybe I should consider replacing that gasket behind the shut-off valve even if mine isn’t now leaking?

Thanks
Bill


　
　
　
　
　
　
　

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=177588

Shouldnt be any fuel leaking from the back of the IP. Is probably being blown back.

Clean it up first then check again.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

The fuel line connections at the filter are quite easy. Down underneath the intake manifold they get much more difficult. If you have small hands and skinny forearms, all of them except the one with the banjo bolt can be done with the I.M. in place but the washer bottle out of the way. But be advised that doing it this way usually comes with much swearing and sore fingers.

On my last go-round I tried to remove the shutoff valve with the I.M. still in place and it was a bad idea. I nearly stripped out one of the torx bolts because there just isn't enough room in there to see what you're doing, get the driver aligned, and put torque on it.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Sounds like I should use viton o-rings? Was planning on buying all the fuel lines from Fastline? Does Phil carry the Viton or do I need to go to McMaster Carr?

Your thoughts please?

Thanks
Bill

You can try here:http://www.fryerpower.com/store/page14.html

I bought the kit several years ago and haven't had any issues.

__________________
2005 Pathfinder LE
2001 E55
1998 M3
1982 320i