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300SDL axle pinon seal replacement
The back axle pinion seal is leaking. It is not that serious but it is very messy back there. I have never done anything on a back axle and I did a search for info here.
It seems that I need a special socket as it is not a conventional nut. Is it true? Is it within the realm of a normal DIY guy? How much I would expect to pay if I take it to a mechanic? The seal is not that expensive. The tools is about $60 and it may be more worthwhile to pay a bit more to have an indy takes care of it. Thanks.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. Last edited by ah-kay; 04-16-2010 at 05:08 PM. Reason: typo |
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I would ask if someone would send you the PDF on that.
I looked in the 124 manual. If it is similar after you remove the Flex Disc they wanted you to use a tool to read the Rotating (driving) Torque on the Differential (but in that section the did not say why you needed that). Ounce you get the nut off there was a puller to pull off the Yoke that the Flex Disc attach to. Pry out the seal and install it with the special installer; aka seal driver. After that it said assemble in revers of assembly. It did not give an torque for or special instructions to tighten the nut or say what that Drive Torque reading was for.. However, I am guessing that is in another section. I am also guessing that you tighten the retaining nut down until you get the same Rotating/Driving Torque. I checked m 123 CD Manual and it is about the same. The Rotating/Driving torque is used when you tighten the Retaing nut. You might be able to measure the differential driving torque with a Beam type Torque Wrench in inch pounds.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 04-16-2010 at 08:38 PM. |
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Normally a pinion seal is a sign that the pinion bearings need resetting/replacing.
A diff rebuild will be expensive. If there is excess backlash or any noise, best just replace the diff with a good second hand one. I have done pinion seals on non Mercedes. The tightening torque on the center nut is normally around 200 ftlbs but you need to find out the correct value, it does vary a lot. The Haynes manual just says its too difficult. 911's suggestions are good. It is likely that the drive torque will be a tiny bit greater once you put the new seal in and torque it up. Hopefully some one will have the pdf for us all.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
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at the dealer, we would use an air gun to take the nut off; mark the nut first so that when you put it back on you can tighten it to the same place it was when you took it off. that way the torque will be very close to the same. this has been done to thousands of diffs with no problems.
to get the flange off the diff, use a brass hammer, tapping each ear around so that you don't get it cocked from hitting just one side. do not use a steel hammer or you will deform the flange. sometimes they slide right off, sometimes you gotta hit em a bunch of times. sometimes you will need a puller to get it off. i use an old bearing race thats just a bit larger od than the seal as a driver to get the seal flush with the diff when installing it. be careful not to cock the seal or it can be ruined. you want to drive it in very straight. put a little grease or oil on the lip of the seal so the flange don't damage it when you put it back in.
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1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going... fast '70 Chevelle 200k+ home built Shovelhead chopper |
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Thanks for the info.
I am thinking of replacing it with an used one from a JY. There is a lot of JY here ( close to Mexico ). I think the leak can wait as long as I keep an eye on the oil level. I drained it just now and not much oil come out. I think it is less than 1.0L. It should take about 1.5L, shouldn't it? If I change the diff from the JY, would any W126 chassis car fit, SE, SEL? How about the year?
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
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How to determine the friction preload
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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I think Brian Carlton has played with diff changing a bit, you may wish to ask him or whunter about what fits what.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
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Quote:
If you use the method where you mark were the retaining Nut is (index it); it is also a good idea to measure or count the exposed threads (both done before you loosen the Retaining nut).
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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Quote:
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How much an indy or stealership would charge?
I am overwhelmed with projects; cars, house; work etc that this can either wait or have it done by an indy. I can pull one from JY when they have 1/2 price sale but it will be a while.
Any idea how much an indy or stealership would charge for such a specific job? Thanks
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
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Quote:
You also may need to make an appointment to have the job done.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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Stuck - cannot get the drive shaft out of the way, HELP
Attempted to do the seal myself. I marked the location of the disk relative to the flange and removed the 6 bolts that hold the flex disk. The flex disk is loose, the drive shaft is separated from the flange and can be rotated freely if I put the tranny into neutral. The problem is that there seems to be a little shaft inside the flange that goes into the drive shaft . There is no clearance to slide the drive shaft back to clear it. As a result, I cannot move the drive shaft out of the way to get to the flange nut. The flex disk will not come out either.
What do I need to do next?
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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I have read the forum here that I can take the heat shield out and collapse the drive shaft? Is it doable?
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
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get a big pry bar and pry the driveshaft away from the diff. the pinion has a projection on it that goes into a hole in the drive shaft. it seems brutal, but you must pry it back to get the flex disc off and to get at the nut.
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1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going... fast '70 Chevelle 200k+ home built Shovelhead chopper |
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