I paid $60 cash for the Brake Light Switch and labor to install it - the mechanic told me that I saved $20 because ordinarily it would cost $80.

I'm not exactly sure where the part is located so I can't say how "tough" the labor was. It seemed to take him about 5-10 minutes to do the job - alls he did was pop the hood.

I see the part listed online for about $15.

So do you guys think this was a bargain or a ripoff or somewhere in between? I have the old part which he apparently removed, the part # is 0015450109 I don't "know" but I'm assuming he put in a MB part.

Thanks

It's fixed. Could you have done it yourself? Possibly.
List price is $25. That's what you get charged.

Depends on labor cost: figure $100 and hour. min charge 1/2 hour labor.

$50 (LABOR) + $25(PART) =$75 you paid $60 so you got a deal.

Order part online ($15 + $7 Shipping) = $22
Your labor/time/research= few hours.

So you overpaid $3 on the part. What's your time worth?

You got a great deal. Be happy. Have a beer. Don't dwell on money that has been spent.

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

haha, you are right it's only $60 and even if I spent $100 and got totally ripped off - it would still "only be $100" which is not that much in the long scheme of things.

Notwithstanding the final dollar amount:

If another mechanic does the job for $40, that's nearly a 35% difference in price. It was the first time I used this shop so debating as to whether i should return or give someone else a shot. thanks

Not sure of the type of shop you brought it to. But it seems if they "specialize" in a particular type of auto they charge more. Yes, certain vehicles tend to have certain types of quirks for specific items, but generally it's the engineering that goes into the parts. Then its just a matter of swapping out parts and not re-engineering things.

Don't know how they trouble shot the switch or what specifically was wrong. If it was a "Hey my brake lights don't work can you look at it". Any shop can do that trouble shooting even the guys at the parts counter can give you ideas where to look.

It's important to build a relationship with a repair shop if your not mechanically inclined otherwise your at their mercy. When you get quoted prices for work most places will use one of the standard databases for hours (labor rates). Some places will allow you to purchase your own parts and supply them to the shop. It depends. Some places will cut you a deal on labor rates/times.

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

no shop is gonna do it for $40. hell, i'd charge $60 if i didn't have to spend a lot of time on diagnosis, more if i had to diag. you got a good deal. don't be a miser. dealers would charge almost $130/hr here.

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1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going...
fast '70 Chevelle 200k+
home built Shovelhead chopper

I have done this job, and the switch I replaced is under the dash cover above your feet and is held in a holder that is associated with the brake pedal support. Don't know what your problem was, but on my car the ASR/BAS light was coming on all the time and my ABS was disabled when this happened (not to mention ASR and BAS). So, if the guy changed another switch under the hood, well, I know nothing about that one. But the one under the dash is a huge PIA and I would have gladly spent the money you were charged to have it replaced.

Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

I will second the PITA opinion for the R&R of a Brake Light Switch...

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Joe

1998 E300D turbo 240K + Miles
2000 Dodge Dakota 122K + Miles
1992 Mazda Miata Autocross Machine 143K + Miles
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