OK I have a leak in the car and that has caused a little surface rust in the floor on the passenger side.

So I want to pull the passenger seat out. Easy enough....

Slid the seat all the way back and removed the front two 10mm bolts
Slid the seat forward and removed Two Phillips screws and the 10mm seat belt retainer bolt.

Well the seat to stuck. It looks like it is still attached to the floor but I see no way to get that Phillips screw on that mount.
I searched the forum and everything sounds straight forward BUT the part I read about the 5 10mm bolts. I have removed three but cannot seem to access the other two. I also read about rising the seat, I think mine is stuck as it will do nothing.

I also got a friend to help push and pull and still no luck.
Any tips to help with getting the seat out,location of the other two 10mm bolts, helping the "up" seat lever to work.

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On the hunt...
1985 300D----Sold
1985 300TD---Sold
1983 300SD---Sold

I had the same issue in my '79. Yes you do have to raise the seat. The handle on my "up" lever (located on the side of the seat, facing the door )was broken off so it was a little difficult. I ended up using a crow bar to move the "up" lever (it has to move upwards) , so I could raise the seat.

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Sonny


86 190D N/A 2.5L Auto 265k "Ruby" -Sold-
79 300D 242k "Condi" my first -sold- RIP
2013 chevy sonic hatchback - had to for work

The drivers seat is as much fun.

From the front seat door, reach in an pull the handle straight up AND at the same time with an arm wrapped around the seat push forward as if your trying to move the seat to the windshield. It WILL move exposing all the needed hardware removal access.

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1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

It sounds like you unbolted the seat frame from the floor in the front, and unscrewed the seat itself from the seat frame in the rear. The rear has two identical 10mm bolts as well.

I had this problem as well with the broken handle, my handle was also bent though, and the hardware ultimately was too rusted to even work, so I ended up having to cut the seat out of the car. This is a worst case scenario though.

Its got like a little sawtooth catch on either side, and the broken handle does not pull the catch fully out of the track to move the seat fully forward. Its really robust too, so if you fail to pull the handle up high enough that it slips out of the catch, you will never be able to get it forward by slamming it hard.

Id put the front bolts back in, sit in the seat, use the crowbar, and slide it back and forth until you get it to move further forward and expose the rear bolts.

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Spray some WD-40 or PB blaster on the rails, your height adjustment is probably sticky from under-use.

X2 on the above, bolt it back in and start rocking back and forth. Make sure the handle is up all the way. You might want to get someone to help you. After you get it unstuck, move it around every now and then so it doesn't stick again. BTW it might be a little difficult to push it down (back) because there are two stiff springs that return it to the top position. If you can see at what height it's located in, you can sit in the seat and push on the frame with your foot.

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

Some driver seat pics here.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=274284

__________________
1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."