Hi all, thank you for a wonderful forum. I have been gathering much needed information and doing a lot of research here over the past few weeks as I begin my search for a quality 81-85 300D to purchase.

I found a 1984 300D Turbo for sale with 113k miles for $2500.

The paint is beautiful, the vehicle starts, runs and drives well, and the interior is in great shape.


But there are a few things that concern me:

1. The transmission was rebuilt two years ago.
2. The seller reports that after rain or washing, the floor under the back seat carpet is damp, but he doesn't see a leak or know where it's coming from.
3. The switches on the back windows don't work. The windows themselves work and can be activated by the driver's control panel but the switches in the back don't work.
4. The blower/ heater fan doesn't work.
5. There is no AC...the seller states that he doesn't see an option for AC but can't be sure because the blower/ heater fan doesn't turn on and he therefor can't tell what temp air is coming out. I though AC was standard on these vehicle but deeper research shows it was an option.

Are any of these red flags to you? I find it a bit odd that the transmission had to be rebuilt with relatively few miles on the odometer.

The seller stated that he bought the car from an individual who purchased it from an auction that claimed they had received it from on elderly woman's estate.

Any advice on whether this is a really good deal on a low-mileage vehicle or if there are potential red flags?

Thank you!

Water = check for rust. Either from the water sitting on the floorpan, or the water's coming from a rust hole in the firewall (around the battery for example). Or it could "just" be a leaky windshield or something. Rust = run away.

AC can be seen by a glance at the front of the radiator, you'd have a condensor and electric fan there. Of course that doesn't tell you what's wrong with it.

The odometers break all the time on these things. Do a carfax.

The only Red Flag I can see is the owned by a little Old Lady who only drove it on Sundays story.

Along with the Speedo Cable issue the whole Instrument Cluster is not to hard to remove. So someone could find a Cluster at the Junk Yard showing low milage and easily put one into a high milage Car. You just have to take a good look at the overall appearance of the Car from Top to bottom and see if it looks beat or not.

After you take the Car for a test drive and it is nicely warmed up; remove the Oil Filler Cap and see how much Blow By there is. This could give you a little idea of the condition of the Pistons/Cylinders/Rings.
Look in the DIY section for Blow by.

Concerning the Transmission if you test drive the Car in the City and on the Freeway and the trans works OK I do not think you can ask for more on that rebuilt or not.

Concerning the Rear Windows not working by their individual switches. On the switch closest to the Drivers seat there is a third Button between the two switches. That Button is there to cut off the power to the Rear Windows to prevent Children from playing with the Rear Windows.

It could be that the Switch is no Good or you simply need tp press the Button.

If the Blower Motor actually needs replacing and you do it with a new one it is like $350. But, it could be something you could fix or replace with a used Blower.

Below is a thumbnail of the switches the "S" switch is the one that can cutoff the power t the Rear Windows.
If you get the Windows working and find out they are noisy it is common for the Window Regulator casting to warp/bend.

There would be an A/C compressor on the bottom Driverside under the hood if you have Air Conditioning.

The leaking issue is somewhat common in our DIY area that is stuff on Rust.

DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

Pic of the "S" switch that can cut off the power to the rear Windows.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Not checking the trans fluid and not servicing the trans can shorten the life of it. Unlike American cars where the Trans Filter is often just a Metal Screen the Mercedes Trans Filters have a Paper Element and they do sometimes plug up if neglected long enoug.

But, also old Trans Cooler Hoses could have leaked too much fluid out or because the Trans Cooler is in the Radiator a leak there could have allowed Coolant into the Transmissiom; either could damage a trans and cause it to need rebuilding.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The blower motor may be a fuse issue or maybe the push button unit (CCU) itself needs work.
Inspect for rust on the floor pan, if there is little surface rust, not really a problem.
Most of the issues you state have been dealt with by others, use the search function to help you find answers.

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83 SD

84 CD

The price is fine if the car is basically sound. Ignore the miles on the odo and judge based on the condition of the car. Get a PPI. The water can come from leaky windshield gasket which can be caulked with black silicone. Check for floor rust.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

+1 on check for rust. If the car truly has that low of mileage and nice original paint, assuming it is rust free, it is a good deal, IMO. None of the other stuff scares me much so long as you have a bit of money and handiness...

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Door gaskets do move- and if they move and create a gap at the top then water will enter when it rains. Find a blower motor from the FS section. Tranny rebuild is a plus not a negative. A/C not working is a price point reduction. Rear switches not working may be due to a shorted line where it bends inside the rubber protective covering you can see every time the door is open- move that around when you are pressing the switch, and/or learn to live with it. Everything else is normal for a w123.

Thank you for the great information.

I have requested photos of the floor pans and the engine compartment to try to determine presence of rust and/or AC.

I will also run a Carfax and let you know what I find.

Before you get too upset about the water, check the condition of the hood hinge drain area. If they're clogged, that's a definite source of water. I have an '83 that I bought with 100K miles in about the same condition, and after fixing all the issues, it has proven to be a great car for 5 years.

Carefully check the hood hinge "pockets" for rust holes. I learned the hard way after several floods. Remove the hood springs and probe the pocket
the springs sit in with an awl. I'll bet you go through. Easy fix though.

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85 300TD FED-Daily
84 300SD-Wife's
86 XJS-Sunday
66 GMC-Work- Given to my stepson
83 BMW Airhead- Given to my stepson