Anyone tried upgrading fuse panel to mini ATC -type ?
 

Who else is tired of dealing with bad connections on the old-fashioned European fuses ? Aren't they a pain, or is it just me...
- e.g. even after cleaning all the fixed and spring terminals carefully with #00 steel wool, blowing it all out, and smearing a bit of dielectric grease on them and ends of fuses... I still OFTEN find various accessories not working, and--- after un-screwing the fuse-panel knobs and painstakingly maneuvering the cover off, usually find no blown fuses. So i lightly twist them back-and-forth, and---okay, now they work ! I've been searching for a source for in-line mini-ATC fuse holders.
These fuses are the type used on most newer vehicles.
They're like standard automotive fuses but smaller ( just 7/16th" across ) and pointy-bottom lugs.
Is there a "COMPACT" fuse-holder that can be soldered in place of the old fuse ?
It must be under 7/8" long, not over 7/16" wide, and - for the original cover to fit, up to 7/8" tall ( if the wires come out the side, not the bottom ) ....or, any height, if the original cover is not used. -then the new fuse-holders should have their own individual caps.
Considering the miniATC fuse SIZE, and the SPACE available for the old Euro-fuses, am I being unreasonable ?
PICO and WAYTEK make individual inline mini-fuse holders - seems like they are too big to fit... ?
Also, most other inline fuse holders cost AT LEAST a few bucks a pop ! My '84 300D takes 18 in the panel.
Ladies & gentlemen- IDEAS ?

Use the original Copper fuses, not that cheapo aluminium crap they sell at Wal-Mart!:D

I agree with all of this. Ive toyed with just wiring all the fuses to a new block over on the driver side inner fender. I even went so far as to buy a number of random fuse blocks in a yard for this purpose. Would be great to have a blade style fuse and modernize that entire part of the car.

I was going to make a junction panel where the stock fuse block is and just run the wires further forward, but other projects have derailed that plan.

Alistair is on the right track concerning fuse problems, copper fuses are good. The connections in the base of the fuse block to the wires is also a problem. they go loose over time.

I've never had any issues on any of our cars. I replace them all when I buy a car. I've had maybe 3 fuse failures in 7 years....

on my sd, i added a 4 fuse panel under the dash, and ran a line off the starter terminal block. added radio always on line, cig always on line, and have two spare spots with standard fuses in each circuit.

Fuse(s)
 

Problems with your execution


1. Di-Electric Grease WILL NOT CONDUCT ELECTRICITY.
2.YOU WANT the Smoothest Metal in/on the Spring(y) "Fuse Holders"
(I.E. ROUGH Abrasives are not the thing to use when cleaning the fuse holders.)
( I use Bronze Wool[Fine, as opposed to medium or coarse].It "Polishes"
the Fuse Holders and will not leave particles or RUST)
(No, NOT Steel Wool!)


Lastly "Google" Stabilant22

Ounce stocked with good quality Fuses; keeping the stock Fuse Block in working order has to be easier than installing another Fuse Block.

I've not had any problems either. Did the early cars come with copper fuses? All of mine are aluminum. Some of them are a bit crusty, but they cleaned up easily.

-Jason

yup. copper best. copper on porcelain bodies NOT PLASTIC is very best. fastlane has them at the buy parts above.
the FIRST thing you need to do when getting a car is get all the aluminum fuses out of the car! don't wait until something is not working, just replace them all.
the aluminum fuses are great for what they are made for. A TEMPORARY fuse repair when you are stranded. to be replaced as soon as you have access to the copper fuses.

I use the white metal or Copper. The reason for the mix is when I go to the junk Yard I get a bunch of Fuses of either type; so I over 100 Fuses to scrounge through.
If I have a problem due to the white metal Fuses; I just have to deal with it.
I do not use any of the Plastic bodied Fuses.