Hi all,

I'm helping an older gentleman change out his front brake pads (he was complaining about hearing a grinding noise when braking) in his 83' 300d. I removed the pads to find the out pad in alright condition, though it definitely needed replacement, and the inner pad in downright terrible shape, barely even there. When I went to install the new pads, I installed the outmost pad first, which went fine, I moved the piston back into the bore without a problem and slipped it in, but when it can to install the inner pad, the piston wouldn't budge. Any ideas about how to solve an apparently seized brake piston?

Thanks in advance!

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1984 240D Euro 5 Speed 201,000 miles
1984 300D Euro 4 Speed (runs great but ugly)
1984 300TD 185,000 miles
1985 300TD, 240,000 miles
1972 220D, 240,000 miles w/ a stuck odometer
1984 300D, 214,000 miles
1984 300TD, 255,000 miles rustbucket parts car

Replace or rebuild the caliper. Since there was metal to metal contact, a new rotor is on order. Keep in mind that if you rebuild or replace the caliper, the one on the opposite side should be done also

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Thanks for replying so quickly!

So there's nothing you can do for a piston acting in this way besides replacing the caliper? Also, what is the preferred method for moving the pistons into the bores (when they're willing to move!)? I use a screwdriver or pry bar, and push it against the piston (while making sure not to use the rotor as a pivot point) or I use my hand if I have the clearance to.

Thanks again!

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1984 240D Euro 5 Speed 201,000 miles
1984 300D Euro 4 Speed (runs great but ugly)
1984 300TD 185,000 miles
1985 300TD, 240,000 miles
1972 220D, 240,000 miles w/ a stuck odometer
1984 300D, 214,000 miles
1984 300TD, 255,000 miles rustbucket parts car

Someone might kill me for this. But I use a prybar to push the piston back. You can actually use the very inside of the rotor as the part to pry against. As far as I know, this doesn't damage the rotor in any way, as the brakes do not make contact with this area.

Basically when a caliper piston is that tight, it'll be rusted or the caliper bore corroded...

A re-built caliper is the best and safest way really....

Best replace both calipers and the discs too....

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....