Electric windows acting up.
 

Hi Just purchased a 85 300d with 220,000 miles on it in good shape.
I love it, I guess moved to the dark side, selling my 97 320. Never really liked that car.

Anyway, drivers window, started not going up or waited, had a delay, before it reacted to the console switch.

Then it would not go up at all from the switch. went down perfectly.
So last Saturday, took the door panel off wiring seemed intact.

Hit the motor with a mallet, went back to this delayed reaction going up.
Instantaneus going down. Worked a couple of times and quit going up again.

So question, anyway of manually running it up?
What do you think it is? Gut says its a limit switch? Is this part of the motor assembly? Right rear window also doesnt stop automaticlly when it gets to the top. keeps running if I hold the switch down, so same thing kinda?

Is this just replace the motor or are there somethings I can check. I'm comfortable with a volt ohm meter if that helps.

Probably have a bunch of diesel questions later, but I'm loving it for now..

Thanks
George

pull the console panel up, take the switch apart clean all the coke and gook out of it, *don't lose the two bb's put it back together, enjoy a working window.
if the window perfectly goes down, the motor is working well. if NO NOISE or power is pulling, the motor is fine, just not getting power.
it's the same motor up and down, just reversed polarity.
up of course it has to do more work, so if the window is bound, or the regulator is bent, you could have trouble raising the glass. but it would dim the dome light if that were the case, does it?

You can also pull the window regulator and lube the slides. You may be able to do what's needed by pulling the panel & not the regulator. I ignored a slow window on the SD and bent a regulator arm. Replacement was $100 for regulator and motor from a yard. There are some plastic slides that wear and can be bought cheap from Phil. Lubing the remaining regulators is on the list. Switches were fine.

I do not think there is a limit Switch in any of the Window Motors. Somewhere there is a thread showing a Moter taken apart for re-lubing.

It could be that the Window Relay somehow acts as the limit switch. As far as I can Remember I have not read a thread or post of anyone replacing the Window Relay.

Ounce the Door Panel is off locate the Window Motor wires and test them on a Batery (you will nee Jumper Wires) directly to a Battery.
If they work fine and there is no Regulator issues it is look else where for the cause of the problem.

thanks :-)
 

Kinda discount the console switch, this is a real clean car.
switches feel positive are clean etc. they all four feel the same way not sticky or anything could be wrong.

Had they door panel off last saturday. palstic liner was still on
clean and dry inside. If I pull on the glass with the switch on it doesnt move at all. which isnt my experience if the "track was sticky".

Window did go up and down as well as my 97 does once its moving.

I guess I eliminate the motor cause its strong. and as you point out its one motor for both up and down.
Back window doesnt stop like the rest do when it gets to top, thats why I'm thinking that its a switch or stop.

ok ill hook power to it and then reverse it,and see what happens..

Where is the window relay located?
it really is like it gets no power...

thanks

george

VSTECH
 

I am humbled...

Took the switches apart cleaned them werent to scuzzy. surprised abit
Ashtry doesnt look like it was ever usesd. Like I said clean car.

Noticed when I took the front switch apart that the ball was missing, from one side. Turned it over and shook it and had 2 very clean balls,

Guess is the ball somehow came out of its "holder" and that was cause.

Works fine now..

Once again thanks.

Next project dash lights...

George

what do you mean the window doesn't stop when it gets to the top?
explain this.
do you mean the motor keeps spinning, and the window stops, or do you mean if you hold the switch, the motor keeps pushing.
there is no circuitry to prevent burning out the motor on any of the switches. if you hold the switch, the window will continue pushing until you either let go, or the motor burns out.;)

The Window Relay is behind the Instrument Cluster. There is 3 relays there. I do not remember which one of th 3 it is.
Perhaps you could operate one of the Window with you hand on one of the Relays at an time and see if you can feel winch Relay is the one.

Window keeps going..
 

On the rest of the switches, the motor stops when it reaches top or bottom. regardless of how long I hold the switch.

On the left rear, the motor keeps applying power if I hold the switch down. I can hear like a gear or something jumping does it in both up and down, it i keep pushing.

The rest act like my 92 400e did, and my97 do, just kills the motor at top of travel.

I missed having a daily driver that was simple to work on, and feels so solid going down the road. Yeah for old school.

Really do like this car, its my first Diesel..:-)

The motor does not stop. The motor actually stalls because the glass cannot go higher. The motor is trying to wrap the regulator into a pretzel. Hence, the need to AVOID leaving your finger on the switch when the glass gets to the end of its travel. Most of us get OFF the switch 1/16" prior to the end stop on the glass.

On the LR window, some individual has damaged the regulator (stripped the teeth) by doing the exact procedure that you have described. The only solution is a new regulator.

yuup. I agree with Brian (don't I, and everybody else always?) that's why I asked the question about the switches. only the newer MB's have cut outs built into the windows. it's never a good idea to hold the button down, also if any are sticking, it's a good idea to get them clean so they no longer stick. the regulators are a pain, and they are very chintzy, so it's best to have clean and greased glass slides, and be as gentle as possible with the motor control buttons!

On mine the Jumping Sound was caused by miss alignment and wear on the irregular wear Regulator Teeth.
In my the irregular tooh wear was caused by a bent/warped window Regulator/Motor mounting plate.
You have to pull the the Window Regulator and Motor assembly out to see it clearly.
In the pic below you can see one of the areas that was bent. But, take a good look at the Regulator Teeth and you will see they are worn on an angle. The Teeth are supposed to be straight.
Also this is a pic of the one that I fixed. The Driverside Rear was much worse and I replaced it with a new one.

I was looking at the cost of a new Rear Windo Regulator for the Rear Divers Side it my favorite inter net sellern and since last year the price as gone from$125-50 on up to $240.

This is how I fixed the Passanger Side Rear and reinforced the new Drivers Side Rear.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=254722&highlight=Extreme