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  #1  
Old 05-15-2010, 10:37 AM
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300SDL Oil Cooler Hose

A couple months ago I got a leak from my 300SDL. It wasn't dripping too badly and I wasn't driving too much so it wasn't that big of a deal.

3 months later and it is a quart every 3 weeks, which really adds up. So I decided to take a look at the problem. There is a crack/hole on the top of the bottom line going into the oil cooler.

I tried some putty, I tried some JB-weld, and the leak hasn't stopped, but it has slowed.

I figured it was time to buy one. There is only one problem, none exist. Mercedes is out of stock for the world, except for a dealership in Mexico. 400 for the one line, and they can't tell me if it is the right line, for about 600 when all is said and done.

I have been checking junkyards and there are few of these cars, and most have the engine missing.

Anybody have to patch up an oil line?

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Old 05-15-2010, 10:49 AM
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It looks like Fastlane has both hoses for $493.02.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1986-Mercedes--Benz-300sdl-Engine--Mechanical&yearid=1986%40%401986&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6212%3AMBC%7C1512%3AED%7C10000100%40%40300SDL&catid=240154%40%40Engine+Mechanical&subcatid=240402@@Oil+Cooler+Hose&mode=PA
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  #3  
Old 05-15-2010, 10:55 AM
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Do they keep an inventory or do they buy and resell from Mercedes?

I always thought they were basically resellers so I was trying to go straight to the source.
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Old 05-15-2010, 12:50 PM
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any decent hydraulic hose shop can make you better hoses for less money,unless you are trying to keep your car perfectly original.The real problem is that you need to reuse your end fittings and most people seem to have trouble getting the big nuts off the oil cooler without damaging the threads on the cooler. There are ways around that too,do a search and you will find reasonable solutions to your problem,been cussed and discussed many times here. Don
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Old 05-15-2010, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck07 View Post
Do they keep an inventory or do they buy and resell from Mercedes?

I always thought they were basically resellers so I was trying to go straight to the source.
There are two different sources, OE (Mercedes) and Aftermarket. The ones you buy from any online source will be aftermarket...they are probably identical to the ones from the Mercedes dealer, just less expensive. Mercedes doesn't make any of these parts themselves, they just source them in quantity from vendors and put their own PN and logos on them and mark them up by 50% or more...order what you need from fastlane and get them replaced, pronto.
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Old 05-15-2010, 09:43 PM
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Some where there is an Oil Cooler Hose Thread where the Member removed the old hose and had with I believe screw on fittings (for the hose) brazed to the original Tubing ends the Hose connected to.

Then the Hydraulic Shop the did the brazing made the hose for it. And, I believe the Hose had the female screwn on fittings.

This would work and if it cost 1/2 as much as the real replacement Hoses it would be a considerabal $ savings.
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  #7  
Old 05-15-2010, 10:21 PM
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Thanks for all of the info.

The most recent patch job has held for 2 days, and I have been spraying wd40 around the bolts going into the cooler to ready them if the patch doesnt hold.
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  #8  
Old 05-15-2010, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck07 View Post
Thanks for all of the info.

The most recent patch job has held for 2 days, and I have been spraying wd40 around the bolts going into the cooler to ready them if the patch doesnt hold.
wd-40 is not very good. try aero-kroil or PB blaster. both are superior to WD-40 at penetrating fused fittings.
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  #9  
Old 05-16-2010, 11:47 AM
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Or try liquid-nitrogen. I found that immersing in liquid-nitrogen shrunk the aluminum more than the steel nuts, and it came loose easily.
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  #10  
Old 05-16-2010, 12:02 PM
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Most of the cost of the new lines is for "fancy" metallic ends, not for the rubber "middles."

Remove the cooler and the lines as a unit. Bring the entire mess to the hydraulic shop. Have them TIG or braze your crack, as well as fabricate new rubber "middles" while keeping the existing ends for the filter housing and cooler.

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